Emmanuel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks to having the same dimension I seems able > to put my x-ends on both Prusa and Sells Mendel > (they share the same spacing of 28,5mm from center > to center in the x-end.stl from prusa, and > measured with a ruler on my classic mendel) > Very, very nice work you are doing, Emmanuel. I am slightlby Lanthan - Developers
what distance did you settle for between the axis of the smooth rod and that of the motor & screw?by Lanthan - General
@nophead: THX for the clarification, that was not entirely clear from the rendering. What about the Z smooth bars?.by Lanthan - General
From time to time you'll bump on gcode that unexpectedly sends your hot end straight into the heated build surface. Good practice is to get into the habit of oogling the first few lines of the gcode that is going to be sent to the machine for actual Z positions, before hitting print. With the print bed on springs (needed anyway to level them), eventual collisions carry few consequences. Also Iby Lanthan - General
Same comment on routing: ppl have milled pcbs on mendels and darwins and makerbots, but have a close look at the pictures, the results are not very... accurate. The vibration issue reveals itself there. Issues emerge from the belts, but also from the shaft play in dremels & co. (proxxon is said to have less play) side note: I'd love to see more development of skeinforge's milling capabilitby Lanthan - General
Way to go. Started collecting links about backlash, belt theory, stiffness in my wiki home page, in due time could be transferred to separate pages. But that is all theory. We need data on the actual build quality people are achieving, and its variability. A survey. Maybe we should design a couple of simple, unobtrusive tests plus a short questionnaire, validate them, them post 'em here in thby Lanthan - Developers
@brianandaimee: BTW there is ongoing smooth rod spacing discussion going on around a vertical X axis in another thread. IMHO the real questions are upstream: ideally, we should sit down, start from what is realist and possible with heated, extruded plastic, and seek some form of consensus on key characteristics of our machines, what do we really want: in terms of frame stiffness, maximal accceby Lanthan - Developers
> Any body ever think of putting on the extruder? > i was pondering the idea yesterday. > But that was in bed and now this morning, watching > a print, i dont think anything but the extruder > should stickin down. yep. also, too many moving cables already. > How do you guy control power? power switch on the power supply, either the main one, or one that grounds the power onby Lanthan - General
Menawhile here is a spreadsheet with the measured distances and calculated values. Woodsmoke, given the discussion in your blog, should I enter the (averaged A - averaged and (averaged C - averaged D) values in skeinforge, or halve them as you recommend? Confirms what could be oogled: X lash is 0.067, Y lash is 0.184 @all: What values of lash are you getting in your machines?by Lanthan - Skeinforge
Hi dnaman, Some combinations of firmware / host software do not play together very well. BTW: which firmware are you using? Give a try to printrun (proterface or pronsole): for both of my machines it works very reliably. Haven't looked back at repsnapper excepted with the rare plotting gcode generated by some Inkscape plugin, that manages to get printrun and pronsole to barf. The way I confiby Lanthan - General Mendel Topics
Welcome on board 420e! Glad you're enjoying it. A couple of years ago I discovered this coven and was like "How could I have entirely missed all this ongoing stuff about personal fabrication!". It is every micron as exciting as hacking computers was... many years ago, and the atmosphere of technological diffusion & learning is much similar, only more powerful. I copied a Makerbot (a good waby Lanthan - 3D Design tools
mikey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I see what is > going on in the improvements of the machine as a > similar evolution of steady improvements on design > deficiencies and real world tests to determine > feasibility. Certainly, and the more you dig into the wiki the more you can appreciate the long way. With an emphasis on biomimetics of course,by Lanthan - General
Addendum: With the price difference between LM10UU and SC10UU narrowing (currently the latter are sold on eBay at $4.20 per piece including postage), there are prospects for further simplification...by Lanthan - General
I like it: Reduced parts count, Increased freedom, Simplification is good! MDF, optionally stabilized by epoxy, is a winner. For increased rigidity: At some point you might feel the need to box those two vertical pieces in the YZ plane with an horizontal piece over the top. ... Side thoughts: Am I glad I purchased as large a CNC router as I could afford instead of that BFB thingieby Lanthan - General
@mikey & droftarts: thank you guys for the kind words! Just having a lot of fun re-learning some modelling after a very, very long pause. The printer adds some magick to it. @NoobMan: Yes, the long Z nuts, tried 'em at the very start, you can see 'em in "old" pictures like her: , but the testing got totally obscured by Z motor power distribution problems until I wired 'em serial. In the meaby Lanthan - General
I have also found that diameter can vary sensibly within the same spool. Be sure to take several measurements, and adjust frequently that value in Skeinforge's Dimension tab. Also check your width over thickness ratio for infill (in the "Fill" tab), shouldn't be too far from your perimeter width over thickness ratio (measured from single wall prints) ("Carve" tab).by Lanthan - Reprappers
@Ahmetcemturan: OK here's some fresh data on the unpause plugin. I printed two pieces with M3 holes, same SF42 settings, one with unpause enabled, the other with unpause disabled. -------------- configuration.scad m3_diameter = 4 mm measured hole diameter, unpause enabled = 3.92 - 4.02 mm measured hole diameter, unpause disabled = 3.72 mm ------- However, the shells around the hole look "bettby Lanthan - Skeinforge
droftarts Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If the X-axis rods were clamped solidly in the > X-end holder, Got that solved. This provides a decent grip on the smooth rods, if installed on both ends, at low cost. Just make sure to drill (2.5 mm) and tap (M3) a couple of faces 120 degrees apart, and not 180 as I did. > tensioning the X-axis belt would noby Lanthan - General
Nophead, Suspense is building up. Could we have a peek look at your redesign? (when?)by Lanthan - General
@420e: Hacks on the grand tradition! Funny, yesterday I was also mulling around the idea of two z rods per side instead of one. ...also doubling the X rods with 2 threaded M8 or M10 1.5cm in the same plane, a bit outside the smooth rods.. Will need to mature that, and balance it with the dietary requirements... And yeah, printed pieces should all fit in a 100x95 bed, helps stay (more or less)by Lanthan - General
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I wonder what tension the belt pitch is quoted at? I have been foraging for similar information, but nothing definitive yet. An interesting document for modelling the Mendel and similar: As for the Prusa I think I got the Y motor bracket problem solved with a modified mount. Not yet tried. Should help, the Y axis gby Lanthan - Skeinforge
DeuxVis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Nice, another very interesting blog to read made > it into my bookmarks. Looks like I could spend my > life reading on reprap ... yet we still are missing key background information, structural calculations, applied research etc. in many domains important for the continuing development of the project . Also: feeby Lanthan - 3D Design tools
Recently did your lashmaze test with my pirated cupcake. Showed good alignment of the ridges, but sensibly reduced gaps in the Y axis as compared to the X axis. Will write down the values. And yes, looking at printed circles, they come out slightly un-round. (sigh!) Have not yet played with the settings in skeinforge, that will be the last resort. First I am going to check : - Y belt tension (by Lanthan - Skeinforge
I have 1 or 2 lb of ABS ordered from Makerbot more than a year ago, stored sealed in its original package with silica gel bags until I could finish my build. The stuff is reddish in color, much softer than the various Ultimachine's ABS samples I have received, and plays ugly with my hobbed bolt (just chews it apart instead of pushing it). The same bolt does a reasonable good job with other ABS anby Lanthan - General
are you missing steps? getting different move results for the same distance in gcode? how are your motors wired?by Lanthan - Reprappers
Printed. Now waiting for the bearing. Released on Thingiverse: Any help with the audit/redesign effort most welcome.by Lanthan - General
Alas, no (that would be the giant pie in the sky with diamonds). Paraview is "just a viewer", it will let you have a general view of the moves in and around your object, color-coded by execution time, move length, etc. if you want, but in no way an editor. To promote infill / reinforcement of some regions: PrusaJr came ou some time ago with a very clever scheme to draw tiny, tiny little holes thby Lanthan - 3D Design tools
Also have a look at this: Allows you to convert gcode to a format you can visualize with the very cool paraviewby Lanthan - 3D Design tools
as per the pictures: motor gets bolted "behind" ybracmod_mount, then comes the pulley and the idler with some number of washers, then ybrac_cover with the bearing inserted on ybrac_cover, and the end of the pulley inserted in the bearing. You secure it al with bolts that go either to the stepper or all the way through. Belt has enough clearance to pass between the "pillars". I'll print and postby Lanthan - General