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get the Prusa working in good order!!!! You can print another later on, but you'll be without a paddle if you cannibalize it right away.
by
LNButts
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Reprappers
You can also change the direction your motors run in Marlin:
#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to
by
LNButts
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Reprappers
Are you considering printing solder? Haven't tried that, but I can think of a few potential stumbling points there: contamination (think of the smoke that comes off when you hit the solder with heat - that can't be good in the enclosed space within a hot-end); and heat transfer up the solder (its very conductive, so keeping the upstream filament cool would require one hell of a heat-break.
I ha
by
LNButts
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General
Hard to tell if there is enough space on the other side for a crimped connection, but that could work too if you don't want to wait for another to be sent from China...
by
LNButts
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General
Warren at Revolution printers is super helpful. He's been key in helping me get mine working.
I'm down in Victoria and there are a few of us messing about with 3d printing here.
Check out 3d hubs. You can send in models to them to get em printed.
by
LNButts
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Canada, Vancouver RepRap User Group
Awesome! That has been bugging me...
by
LNButts
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Reprappers
I wire my fan directly to the 12V supply. That way its always on and you never risk getting that heat creep. No speed control, but cooler is better IMO for the heat break
by
LNButts
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Reprappers
If I was to start another build, I would do an SAE one. Being in Canada, its pretty much impossible to find metric anything. Threaded rod is incredibly cheap in imperial, but inaccessible in metric (without ordering it in custom). Fasteners are the same issue - no one carries M3 hardware. Polished rod was carried in my local Fastenal shop, but not in metric. In the end, I bought all my metri
by
LNButts
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Reprappers
I use MatterControl. I like the interface better than Cura or Pronterface, but again that's just a personal thing. I find that you can't print anywhere else on the bed other than center, even if you move the model around. I like varying my print locations because I find I get better adhesion on a fresh coat of hairspray vs. one that has been printed on multiple times. I'm sure they'll fix tha
by
LNButts
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Reprappers
Nothing fancy. The blockage I had was in my heat-sink tube, which fits a 1/8" drill bit no problem
by
LNButts
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General Mendel Topics
Have a read of the 'How to Choose a Reprap PSU' on the Reprap wiki.
I'd shy away from anything less than 400W, just to be sure. PSU is not somewhere you want problems to stem from
by
LNButts
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General
Strap a old Lincoln MIG welder on your printer and print ER70S wire - I haven't seen many plastics with a 70ksi tensile strength
[3dprint.com]
by
LNButts
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General
Vibration can do crazy things! Even at slow speeds, you may be rocking the vertical portion of the frame back and forth slightly, which could cause that bulging / banding.
I have threaded rod supports to tie the upper portion of the vertical frame to the board my printer is mounted on. The brackets are just simple ones I printed out. I get no rocking, and the added supports mean I can mount a
by
LNButts
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General
My whole i3 is mounted on a board, so I just printed some brackets and used some threaded rod for a little extra rigidity. Works great. Plan is to bolt the PSU and ramps down to the board. Makes moving it around the house easy
by
LNButts
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General
I agree it is confusing, but in the grand scheme of things its not really going to make or break someone's printer? Just kind of odd...
I'm sure whoever stuck the thermistor there did so for a good reason, and I'm sure their printer works fine, but I certainly can't think of any good reason not to put it in the hole that is provided for exactly this reason? Agreed DarkAlchemist, it would defin
by
LNButts
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General
Probably possible - I don't see why not. Both should be 12V. Current might be an issue? Not too sure there...the extent of my electrical knowledge pertains to not letting the magic smoke out...
If you want a quick fix you could just solder the heated bed wire directly to the terminal, or to where the terminal is soldered to the RAMPS. Definitely be careful if you're soldering on your RAMPS b
by
LNButts
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General Mendel Topics
A properly functioning heated bed should be reasonably uniform in temp across its surface, with colder temps tending towards the periphery.
In terms of the temperature difference between the underside of the heated bed and the topside of the glass, there will always be a temperature difference between the two.
Knowing the exact temperature that the filament is seeing isn't really all that imp
by
LNButts
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General
agventu, just like the OP your issue sounds like heat creep. You don't have a fan blowing on the heat-break (the stainless steel threaded tube), do you? If I try to print without my fan running (on my Prusa i3), I get a jam within the first layer or two every time! With the fan running, I've pushed out 2+ hour prints with no issues.
Like 3dkarma suggested, look into getting an E3D heat-sink f
by
LNButts
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General Mendel Topics
I had a similar issue a few weeks ago. I had rapidly pulled some filament out by hand, and I guess some semi-liquid filament stuck to the walls of the head-sink and was blocking the filament. I popped the blockage out with a drill bit and that was it.
Try measuring a length of filament and sticking it down towards the nozzle. See how far it gets (so you know where you have the blockage). If
by
LNButts
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General Mendel Topics
Like yoUmake-3d noted, try adjusting the homing settings in your firmware. Could be that the one z-axis stepper is skipping steps because its trying to step too quickly.
I use Marlin, and this is what I have:
//// MOVEMENT SETTINGS
#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {50*60, 50*60, 120, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)
N
by
LNButts
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General Mendel Topics