Looking at the picture on their website, I'm not sure that is a complete parts kit for 36 euro. Where are you located? i'm in the US (Dallas)by thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
Hi Michael, I'm in the process of putting one of these together too. Having problems with their STL generation from openjscad. it wants to put some parts in an impossible arrangement to print. and im wondering if the output from openscad and openjscad and blender are the same...I think they take the "open source" a bit far... pick one and stick with it and maintain it is better than trying toby thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
Also do you have another computer to try it on?by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Compiling latest marlin?by thetazzbot - Reprappers
QuoteRichard PV thetazzbot you are right! Now I believe that the Smartrap Core XY is the best for me. thetazzbot, why did you say that I can use a pcb heater to start, isn't a best option just buy one like this or something similar? Forgive me if this is a silly question Yeah, that's what I was saying. There are other, better, more expensive options. A milled aluminum plate ($20-$30), glassby thetazzbot - Reprappers
I'm not sure how much cheaper you can get than hairspray on glass. I just tried it for the first time last night, and it's like magic. Sticks so good, just some prepwork. I use dollar store 8x10 glass frames and just have a few of them prepped. It's not a bad approach, when a print finishes, remove the glass and put a fresh one to continue. I'll probably never go back to tape if this works lby thetazzbot - General
I would not focus on building the cheapest printer because you will not be satisfied. Focus on learning how to make a solid printer on a specific budget. The smartrap corexy is solid if you use 1/2 in or 12mm mdf. It is also cost effective And scalable to an certain extent. Start with 220 mm x 220mm build area so you can use pcb heater to start with.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Printing with what? PLA? Isn't pla like the easiest to print with? What about nylon, PET, hips, abs?by thetazzbot - General
Hey dentist... Why did you go with a moving Y bed rather than a moving z bed aka hbot or corexy? I am at this juncture where I must make the same decision and havent had luck in finding pros cons of each that sway me either way... Ok so i see that you said if you were starting from scratch you would go corexy....by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Really should look at the smartrap core on thingiverse.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
MM 1.5 is an attractive printer. Im building a corexy machine with 40cm extrusion, so the bed will be at least 350 x 300 mm Seemed like a decent upgrade from the prusa i3 rework variant that i have.by thetazzbot - General
Any finishing updates? Printing videos?by thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
The printers at the local makerspace extrude two little blobs in the corner before printing. The kislicer is setup to not print any skirts. This seems so effective, I was trying to setup a start gcode to do it but couldn't figure it out.by thetazzbot - Printing
How do you break a servo? I can understand breaking the arm, but the entire servo? replace the arm, they sell em at hobby shops. As far as the new one not working the same... that's a mystery.by thetazzbot - Printing
The texture is part of what makes 3d printed items unique. Lower the layer height to .1 and it gets very smooth at the price of very long prints. Small parts work better at lower speed and .2 or .1mm layer height.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
What kind of printer? Im assuming a Prusa variant. A. Ditch the motor fans. Dont need them. If you have the current potentiameter set correctly your motors wont overheat. B. Auto bed levelling. It depends. If you have a typical pcb bed with nothing else aka no glass or aluminum plate youre in for some headaches. The pcb heater will bow and bend as it heats. Put an 8x10 glass from a cheap picturby thetazzbot - Reprappers
I briefly ran my printer with that enabled, and I really didn't like the continuous moving of the Z axis. Now, let's separate ABL for Delta printers from ABL for Cartesian printers like Prusa/Mendel. On a Delta, I get it. Maybe... I haven't actually ran it on a delta yet. But on my Prusa i3, it makes the printer run so much slower that I can't believe anyone would want to use that on anytby thetazzbot - Developers
Just an FYI there is a link buried in the comments on the thingiverse page that has good info here is the link:by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Quotecdru Quotethetazzbotalso, I was referring to "can you measure the output", i.e. hold a pair of digital calipers to a print. It's painfully difficult to measure something .05 mm Print an object. Quit printing half way through a layer. Measure the difference between the unfinished side vs the finished side. Or measure your first layer. Or measure finished part divide by the number of layersby thetazzbot - General
Quotefatesalign Quotethetazzbot The wanhou is a better looking printer and it uses lead screws not threaded rod for the z axis. PS Anyone can claim 50 micron. Can you measure it? Wanhou $429, much better looking, electronics and PS enclosed in its own case. Win! It still uses a threaded rod and the computer can measure 50 microns when you try to print with it. Are you joking? I really likeby thetazzbot - General
I posted the link before... here it is againby thetazzbot - Reprappers
lol "The other day" was in Aprilby thetazzbot - General
I dont see your challenge post.. Was it here?by thetazzbot - General
How do you judge the quality of your print and or printer? The reason I ask is, i have a printer that isnt terribly reliable yet but prints pretty good but it is hard to compare it because i see prints out on this forum or the net in general with no info and they appear inferior to what im getting yet the printer the guys used seem way more engineered than mine... So im wondering if there is aby thetazzbot - General
Hopefully you will post a pic of the success and what you did differentlyby thetazzbot - General
There is a function that is called whenever a G1 and G0 gcode is received and the parameters include axis and mm. You can create a global var and each time that z changes you increase it and this is a layer counter. Problem is if you use autobed level then Z is always changing. There is also a function for lcd display of text.by thetazzbot - General
All great points. Last night i had the bed disassembled to see if i could get a hole in the left side but no go. Not enough room. I still have the one corner static and set z there yes then adjust diagonals. I checked with a straight edge and its flat. sample print Have a wierd banding issue... But anyway lots of good info in this thread. Im not expecting perfection from this printer. Need toby thetazzbot - General
What you're saying kinda makes sense to me. Sitting here looking at my Kossel and thinking about the steps: 1. Move the nozzle into the Z0 position which is one paper width away from the bed. Then G92 Z0 here. 2. Move the nozzle up to an arbitrary point and set home position here. Then, when the printer homes it should go back to that arbitrary position. That does of course require code chby thetazzbot - General
At the Dallas maker space their polyprinters all use this with no juice and the printers are generally amazing. sometimes still get warpage. the printers have an enclosure. PET tapeby thetazzbot - Printing
Quotejessicabrenner (normally I'm used to things becoming stiff after removing belts, not after I put them on) hahaha no one even touched that. it was funnyby thetazzbot - General