I know this probably sounds stupid to anyone who knows but I just wanted to make sure this was ok. I'm in the middle of a delta printer built and my plan was to use low voltage LED strips from Ikea. The only issue I have is they're not very bright.I was wondering if a standard LED bulb would possibly be better assuming I can get a fitting mounted for it? I'm thinking something like this: Assby RickM - Controllers
Nice work on the new model Andy. I've still not finished my Cherry Pi I...I finally got all the parts (and finally got hold of someones pillar drill!) but havn't had time. Quick question - is this a complete redesign, or do you think it might be possible to mash the two together to essentially have v1 with the heated bed, and then things like the auto-leveling from v2? Cheers and keep it upby RickM - Delta Machines
QuoteNewPerfection QuoteRickM The only thing I've not been able to find there is borosilicate glass. I'm having an absolute nightmare trying to get a 250mm round piece. The only place that has it is in the US and charges $40 + $30 shipping with no returns (so if it's broken, I'm screwed). It doesn't need to be borosilicate. Try a piece of round mirror glass like this: (that's 10 inches diameteby RickM - Delta Machines
I think I may end up having to go for a square piece for now. I pinched an old microwave plate that's the exact size I need. Unfortunately it's got those three annoying bits sticking out the bottom of it to attach to the microwave, and there's a slight dip in the center of the flat surface. Not sure if it'll be any good for heat transfer as there would be a ~1cm gap between the heat bed and the pby RickM - Delta Machines
Nice one I bought my wantai motors via AliExpress - couldn't fault the service. I think my Prusa i3 motors came from there too. I'll be picking up another RAMPS 1.4 and arduino as well, as the one on my Prusa i3 is faulty (cant upload any new firmware). The AliExpress ones are dirt cheap compared to RepRapDiscount (who do also sell on AliExpress). The only thing I've not been able to find thereby RickM - Delta Machines
Looking at that video Charlie the stuttering/stopping would likely be those DRV's - I've seen a few videos of the same thing. It's something to do with the board needing to pause to catch up or something (yeah, not the most technical description - sorry!). Andy - for the SmartLCD if you do need to get another one, I've seen some pretty cheap on eBay and AliExpress. I'd go for the AliExpress onesby RickM - Delta Machines
If the printer's already up to temperature it should be fairly ok I'd have thought. The alternative is have the printer do retraction at the end of a print, then again before attempting to level. That combined with pre-heating should make it ok in most instances I'd have thought.by RickM - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCartBut I've now found this one that does away with the probe in favour of using the actual hotend. Seems like a more efficient idea. I'm currently reworking the attach points for the rods. Andy Now that's an awesome idea. Does away with Johann's latest approach (the three pressure pads under the bed) and keeps the ability to use the nozzle.by RickM - Delta Machines
QuoteTheCrey Hi, just to be sure, the Ramps 1.4 are working fine with the Hall endstops right ? Yup, works fine. A word of warning though, the connection between the little circuit board and the actual magnetic detection chip is pretty fragile. 3-4 bends and it'll break, so only bend it into place once you're sure you know how you want it. I've lost 2 hall-o endstops because of this. It's a cby RickM - Delta Machines
QuoteumdpruI wanted the RUMBA for the 3DR simple I am building but I coudlnt' find a source for the hall effect end-stops. Where are you all buying those? I will probably build a 3DR once my 3DR simple is done but it's entirely dependent on being able to find the hall effect end-stops. Reprapdiscount.com sells the hall endstops. They ship the same ones out with their RAMPS 1.4 and RUMBA boards soby RickM - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart I use a Rumba too with 8825 drivers for 1/32 microsteps, excellent board I'm looking at getting one of these. Is there a big/noticeable difference with the 8825's over the standard 4988's? I've been scouting around for any comparisons but can't seem to find any.by RickM - Delta Machines
Good luck with the heatbed - be sure to let us know how it goes, and if possible provide any info on a wiki page Also not sure if you'd seen this one or not but this is the SeeMeCNC Onyx heatbed. It's got a 280mm diameter heated area: It runs on 12 or 24v so you'll probably be fine. It's expensive as hell but it's due to the size of the PCB they have to use. One thing you can do to help theby RickM - Delta Machines
Is this going to be a PCB board or one of the higher powered rubber or kapton based ones? I've been searching for ideas for a 250mm diamiter one for my delta. I looked at custom PCB costs and circular PCB's cost an absolute fortune (for a 250mm one it was around £60 for a very basic board). You've then also got the issue that something that size will take litterally hours to heat up if its onlyby RickM - Delta Machines
Personally I'd say go with something that has decent support and instructions. Look through the list of popular models on the wiki. A good place to ask delta specific questions is on the Google Group for it here: On the Google Group I see a lot of talk about the Kossel Mini. Not something I'd personally go with but seems to be reasonably popular. A slightly easier to build (and source for) is tby RickM - Delta Machines
Quotenicholas.seward I think we need to standardize our language. Mostly because when people say "delta" they usually mean a Rostock style bot and ignores the pick and place style ones like Rappidelta and the Simpson style bots. I propose the following terms to be used in the wiki and hopefully in the forums. Column Delta: Rostock, Kossel, LISA, etc Grounded Delta: GUS Simpson, GDR, etc Tradiby RickM - Delta Machines
QuoteGuizmo QuoteRickM ... For that reason, something like RichRap's 3DR is likely a better 'default' delta option, as it uses lots of printed parts and is quite possibly the only delta that follows the goals of the reprap project. Just a comment. Nicholas Seward GUS is what I and many consider the most reprapable printer at this moment, being a delta variation. Although not a beginer friendlyby RickM - Delta Machines
Regarding the rods - 6mm metal tubing works. Andy used it on the Cherry Pi. It's dirt cheap too. In the UK it's sold in B&Q. A load of online places sell it as well so if you're elsewhere it should be very easy to pick up.by RickM - Delta Machines
Quotemyohmy11 Hi Rick i'm thinking about building a mini rostock. Why did you say this is not the best choice for most people? the complexity? Actually I never said anything about the rostock mini at all I've not looked into the rostock mini much myself. To be honest with any reprap there will be a certain amount of figuring stuff out for yourself. The rest is down to how well the documentatiby RickM - Delta Machines
I cant see it working. Whilst it's a nice idea, makerslide, openbeam, vslot, et all are pretty much a complete failure due to price and lack of demand. The thing is this: We have printers. So why is someone not going to just go and buy standard t-slow extrusion, then print plastic ends, plastic adaptors, etc. The price difference is massive. When I was pricing up my delta frame it was a case ofby RickM - Delta Machines
There's no reason why you couldn't do this with a 3DR, you'd just need a 20x20 carriage like Andy's (Cherry Pi).by RickM - Delta Machines
Quotebobc The link "Build a RepRap" redirects to . There are several printers on there that are somewhat obscure, very new and not yet released or not even really RepRaps, so I don't think it is because there is a lack of a "go to" delta or because they are too new. Like most of the wiki, it is a rather arbitrary list of stuff, so lack of Deltas probably just means no one thought to add one. Thby RickM - Delta Machines
There's no standard for delta printers. For example right now the reprap models everyone recommends is either a Mendel90 or a Prusa i3. With the deltas you have too many variants that are in different stages of construction. There are few that are stable enough to build with a complete set of instructions. The Kossel Mini seems to be the most 'standard' delta model, although possibly not the bestby RickM - Delta Machines
B&Q. They sell 6mm hollow aluminium tubing. Dirt cheap too: They do a few different sizes as well.by RickM - Delta Machines
Probably for a number of reasons: 1 - Because nobody's added them. 2 - Because there is no 'one' delta that can be used as the go-to model 3 - The wiki isnt generally all that up to date - there's a huge amount of invalid/old content. Best guess is that nobody'd had time to do it yet. Ideally there needs to be a delta hub page, listing the models and their differences. Again, time is a problemby RickM - Delta Machines
Werner, Just wanted to say a huge thanks to you for sharing your entire build process. I'm about to start building a relatively simple little delta with a simple goal - low cost and locally sourced parts where possible. I think I may have just decided what I'll be building after the delta. A new, big shed. Shortly followed by all sorts of awesome toys such as a CNC! I get the feeling you've insby RickM - General
Thanks Kram - didn't notice that page when I first looked. I'll keep an eye on this for a future delta project!by RickM - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Did you solder the ramps board yourself or buy a kit? Basically the arduino takes power from one the main 12v input on the ramps board, presumably ramps converts that down to a lower voltage for the arduino however. The basic end result is that the arduino and basic ramps functionality (I.e smart display) can be used with just USB power, but when your power supply is turned on, they use the mainby RickM - Delta Machines
Yup, completely agree jaydmdigital. When I first started thinking about it, all I could think about was to make the build size as big as possible. But given I'm building it primarily as a hobby and not for one specific work purpose, I started to jot down a few ideas of what I'd like to achieve with the build. So far I have the following goals: - All parts easily sourced from either local UK natby RickM - Delta Machines
Just a thought, as I'm about to build a similar design that will be using bearings on aluminum. What about some sort of sticky backed thin rubber or silicon, that sticks in strips directly to the aluminium surface. Basically creating a soft surface without having to use the heat shrink method, which from what I understand can be a bit hit and miss. Alternatively, would a printed plastic cover aby RickM - Delta Machines
Ah good thinking, I'll give that a try.by RickM - RAMPS Electronics