smoothieware would be nice, but to my understanding it is also pretty locked to it's intended hardware. Not impossible to rework, but again, alot of work required. It would be nice to have a firmware that is more well supported like Marlin or Smoothieware.by TbirdMan - Controllers
Hey guys, I just got my Teensy 3.5 and 3.6 from the kickstarter, and I was wondering if anyone thought it would be worth my time to look into building one into a 3d printer controller? I like the onboard uSD and USB host, it has plenty of IO including 2 DAC's. It has an FPU plenty of power for delta machines. and one potentially interesting feature of the 3.6 is the touch sensing inputs. Thoughtsby TbirdMan - Controllers
Solved my problem. I disconnected everything and reconnected parts until the problem came back. It seems the thermistor which is inserted into a pocket in the nozzle must have been shorting to the nozzle. I re-seated the thermistor being careful to not let the leads touch anything and it stopped. Strange problem if you ask me, hopefully it doesn't come back, it could cause the hotend to runaway (by TbirdMan - RAMPS Electronics
So, I am upgrading my delta printer with SilentStepSticks and a new hotend. I have everything connected and when I first powered it on i realized the extruder stepstick was in backward. After panicking and shutting it off and replacing it with a spare one in the right direction everything seemed to be working but my hotend started slowly heating up. I checked and d10 is outputting 1.2V with the hby TbirdMan - RAMPS Electronics
The ground plane around the edge should not be carrying any significant current. the main power ground will be the connections between the PCIe input grounds and the V1/V2 grounds, the other grounds will be for electronics (Raspi 3 + 7in touchscreen+RAMPS). I rated the connectors at 16A since the RAMPS board is not rated higher then that anyway and if I need more there is the option of an SSR. Iby TbirdMan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I figured out how to turn them into .png files, these are the top and bottom. based on some input i got elsewhere I think I am gonna make the board a bit wider and make the 12Vin traces a bit wider.by TbirdMan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I have a design I am happy with so far, but would like some input from others. How do I go about posting the design, do I upload it in Gerber or will the diptrace file work?by TbirdMan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hmm, are you able to look at the 5Vsb line on an oscilloscope? A multi-meter doesn't update fast enough to catch small transients and noise. I am betting it is noisy, maybe poor quality PSU or failing 5Vsb.by TbirdMan - Printing
try adding a 10Ohm 10W resistor to the 5V line. some PSU's need a load to regulate properly.by TbirdMan - Printing
An atx psu, even at low load, will waste power. Being able to turn the main psu off but leave the electronics running off the 5Vsb and have the controller turn the psu on and off will save energy and make it more stand alone. And using the standard plugs will make using an atx psu more plug and play. Also, using a bent paperclip is lazy and prone to bad connection and getting shorted out. Also, sby TbirdMan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Neither of these breakout boards is capable of powering a printer, they are for low current bench testing. They really aren't anything like what I want to build. they typically have fuses around 1-2A. they also only breakout the ATX motherboard connector which only has 2 18ga 12V wires from a single rail. My design will have the PCIe plugs providing two ~15A +12v rails (assuming the PSU is capablby TbirdMan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I tried setting the factor to 0.8 i think (might have been 0.9) and this was a bit better, but i was under-extruding on the bottom layers causing gaps and pinholes.by TbirdMan - Printing
Quotenebbian The easiest and cheapest way to get around the problem is to bump up your power supply voltage to around 14 volts, and add an automotive 30 amp relay to do the switching instead of putting full current through the polyfuse. I've done this to two printers, and it works well. that works if you have an adjustable power supply. I am using an ATX power supply and have no desire to add aby TbirdMan - Printing
might be worth a try.by TbirdMan - Printing
I have been having an issue with an ABS print that I think is overextrusion, but could be something else. I end up with these raised ridges, any ideas? I am printing at 240C with a 0.4 nozzle 30mm/s solid infill, 0.2 layer height, 0.4 extrusion width. let me know if you need any other info. The problem area: And the other end:by TbirdMan - Printing
my bed is a single unit, the heater is directly attached to the aluminum bed. I have a paper/bubble-wrap shipping bag wedged on the underside insulating the bottom. the top is just bare aluminum with masking tape. the bed is mounted to the chassis by three ~1cm brass standoffs, so I suppose it can lose a bit of heat there, but likely not much. You also have the benefit of the glass not conductingby TbirdMan - Printing
yes, the heatsink is sitting above the base plate. That is how I am maximizing build height. that is the current configuration of my printer, but it uses a modified E3D V5 with a super long heatbrake (probably 2cm longer then stock) and aluminum effector plate. Basically, the heatsink acts as the top nut and the effector plate is sandwiched between the heatsink and a nut on the heatbrake. I wantby TbirdMan - Developers
I am designing a Kossel effector for the E3D V6 that maximizes build height. I am looking and the clearance between the heat block and bottom plate of the effector is pretty tight (1.5mm). what kind of clearance do I need to allow to avoid melting ABS?by TbirdMan - Developers
To be fair, the kit didn't come with the heated bed, and the power supply it did come with didn't have the current for it. I purchased and mounted the heated bed and switched to an ATX PSU. I also have some plexi around here i plan to build an enclosure with. It was really my fault for not doing sufficient research before I bought the bed.by TbirdMan - Printing
The problem with getting a higher rated heater at my operating voltage is that to run ~157W (the power you suggest which seems about right) I would be pulling over 13A, well above my RAMPS board is rated to handle. I don't want to add another power supply, so I think a 120V heater + SSR is the simplest option. It requires the least modification to my electronics package.by TbirdMan - Printing
I think at this point my best and safest route will be to get a 120V silicone pad and put it on my original stainless steel bed, that avoids adding another power converter. even a cheap SSR can run a load like that all day and barely notice it.by TbirdMan - Printing
it is a small 40mm blower with a custom duct I find it helps when bridging ABS. however when a heater like this is at it's limit it won't take much to cool it by a couple deg. I have been having warping issues and as part of the attempted solution I was trying to print at 110 bed temp. 100 worked ok, but still cooled a bit and got some excessive corner lifting. The advice I found suggested that tby TbirdMan - Printing
The orange or yellow rectangles.by TbirdMan - Printing
Is this a RAMPS? if so I would suspect your polyfuses.by TbirdMan - Printing
closer to this Dangerous Prototypes ATX breakout board. but engineered to power a 3d printer. those breakout boards can't provide the current (ATX 24 pin only has 2 12V lines running through 18ga wire) and don't breakout 5Vsb, or the PS_ON for control by the arduino etc. Mine will have provisions for the PCIe rails to plug in or screw terminals if you want a different power source. I am still inby TbirdMan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
I am working on designing an ATX PSU power distribution board with the current features: 20 or 24 pin ATX plug in mainly for control 5V USB output coming from the 5Vsb (possibly a jumper to choose 5Vsb or main 5Vline?) to power electronics 2 pin terminal for PS_ON (can be jumpered or have a switch added to manually control) LED + terminal for PWR_OK provision for a 10W10Ohm resistor to stabilizeby TbirdMan - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
it will hit 110 if I have the bed covered, but if the part cooling fan is on at all it plummets. I know how PID controllers work, I have programmed a few myself. that much error should have the PWM running 100% dty cycle. I turned off PID and went straight bang-bang and it took over 10min to go from 100 to 110. It is not PID, 90W is just under-powered for this size bed. I think the simplest solutby TbirdMan - Printing
Ok, specs. My PSU is a 550W ATX power supply, one 12V 45A rail run through 8 wires (two for each + and - lead) to the RAMPS , so more then enough. As the digital dentist pointed out you are misunderstanding Ohm's law, doubling voltage for the same resistance quadruples power (P=V^2/R) and only doubles current (I=V/R) meaning it is more efficient. the bed is using PID that I ran the autotune on, mby TbirdMan - Printing
I started to think about it more, and i really don't like the idea of adding another entire power supply to my system. Has anyone tried a boost converter like this or similar? I think a boost converter run directly from the ATX 12V line controlled by another mosfet so I am not trying to run 12-15A through my RAMPS. the converter should give me the flexibility to tune my power as well. One concerby TbirdMan - Printing
Hello everybody. I am not sure if this is the best place for this, sorry if it isn't. I have a Delta printer with a heated bed i purchased from amazon that is a 2Ohm resistance directly on the plate. I have been have adhesion problems with ABS (I have a 200mm wide role of Kapton on the way) and wanted to try to run a higher print bed temp(~110C). I am running my bed at 12V and it takes a long timby TbirdMan - Printing