Hi guys, i just done migrating my CTC printer (a replicator classic clone) to Marlin by using a MKS Gen L board and a full graphic reprap discount LCD. Now I would like to migrate also a Replicator 2X printer using the same Gen L board but i would like to maintain the stock mightyboard 2004 LCD. I search a lot about that but nothing found. Any experience rewiring this panel to working with Marlby villamany - Firmware - Marlin
I dont have measurement equipment. But for my eyes the best i tested is translucent red acrylic. Kaptom seems to block also, but no much. I found A4 size sheets of 3mm acrylic on Ebay, i think they could be ok for an enclosure window.by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hello, i want to build an enclosure for my 445nm CNC engraver. I have a piece of 3mm acrylic (fluorescent orange) i dont have a 445nm meter but seems to be efective for blocking the 445nm, i tested also a piece of kaptom tape and seems to be also efective (less than acrylic), but if i cover the acrylic sheet with kapton seems to bee very efective. Is anyone able to test the kapton tape propertiesby villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
beautiful build!. My milling CNC machine works with bushings and the rods need to be perfect aligned for smooth motion. Cheap linear bearings are more easy to work but a little more clearance/precisionby villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Of couse, a z axis is better to cut thicker materials. Waiting for your machine pictures!...by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
I think no problem wihtout Z axis. It can cut okby villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
No,i dont have z axis, but i can manually adjust the laser height by losing two bolts, my laser is focussed at fixed 50mm and i adjust the height using a 50mm gauge every time i change material thickness. For engraving is ok, and for cutting only tried up to 4mm tickness and no problem. This system is also used by LazerBlade cutter (search on youtube).by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
No, i'm using my own dedicated X/Y table design and the 9mm 445nm Laser diode. Working as datasheet absolute maximum ratings describe @1.7A about 1.6-2W if you use it @2.4A get about 3W but diode is overdriven and overheating, at least with a simple fan cooling as i used.by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Some info about my Laser CNC using the 9mm 445nm diode (in progress): www.3dpburner.blogspot.comby villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
I did not know that only worked safely up to 30C ! This is my cooling system. But knowing this I think would be best to improve the cooling block or put the machine into the refrigerator xD. Thank you...by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Many thanks Viktor. Yesterday i unmount the three elements glass lens from a fried 2W LD and tested on this 3W LD. Im getting much better results with 3EG than with the G2 lens! Has a more small focus and cut better. Also i read the datasheet and absolute maximun rating is 1.7A and is designed for produce about 1.6-2W of power. The seller rate it up to 3W and recommended me a 2.4A for laser pby villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Do you know any easy to build fumes filtering system Viktor?by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Thanks Viktor, yes, of course, im using the safety glasses. I plan to add a fume extractor. For the moment im testing on a ventilated area, near a window. But plan to do it.by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Work in progress ...by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hi guys, im working on my first "complex desing". I want to share the first tests. This is a 3D printed machine, and use some " vitamins" similar to RepRap concept. I named it 3dpBurner This video is using a 3W 445nm laser diode working @2.1A with a G2 lens. It is running GRBL firmware on Arduino UNO with a CNC shield and two Pololu compatible drivers (very cheap electronics). Video:by villamany - Laser Cutter Working Group
I has same problem on 1.1.3. Update to last version and you can see this option under preferences.by villamany - Slic3r
Yo estoy usando este y de momento bien. Llevo ya varias impresiones y "desimpresiones", jejeje, cuanto mas imprimo menos plastico tiro. Aunque eso si, no me esperaba que esto fuese tan problematico, cuando no es una pieza rota, es una impresion fallida... En fin, a base de quitarme horas de sueño voy progresando. Ya tengo casi todas las piezas impresas para actualizar las varillas a 10mm y algunby villamany - RepRap en Español
Gracias, estoy imprimiendo el cubo de calibracion tras invertir los Xends y perfecto, ahora el eje x se ha separado un buen trozo del marco y se han eliminado todos los problemas, ademas el carro X lo he montado inverso tambien (1 rodamiento arriba y 2 abajo), de esta forma puedo poner presillas en los rodamientos eliminando holguras y situar el homing a la izquierda sin interferir en el recorridby villamany - RepRap en Español
Hola, otro novato por aqui con el mismo kit funcionando desde hace 3 dias . El eje Y uso un 608 con las 2 piezas que trae el kit, en el eje X un 624 con un par de arandelas a cada lado y un tornillo M4 pasante. Las piezas son de PLA y durante el montaje me han cascado varias, supongo que por la novatez, asi que usa brocas para repasar los taladros. Respecto al "cascado" he usado ciano, mano deby villamany - RepRap en Español
Hola, como va el susodicho extrusor? Y respecto al montaje?. Me gusta la pinta que tiene. Un saludo...by villamany - RepRap en Español