Ah I see.. my bad.by ampapa - General
Out of curiosity Roberts_clif, how would you implement that unit into a 3D printer to prevent thermal runaway on the hot end and or heated bed? ampapa,by ampapa - General
Interesting, I have some transfer paper that I could try and I also have a sheet of PEI that I guess I could try.. Does just printing on another material cause better sticking, blue tape just isn’t good for adhesion??? Ampapa,by ampapa - Printing
What causes the edges to curl? They were sticking fine and then as the print continued they starting curling.. I didn't apply any heat to the bed whcih I assume is to help with the problem.. should I try applying so heat to the bed? X and Y are driven by a belt as this is a CoreXY build however my Z axis does contain 2 couplers. I'm assuming that the calibration cube is labeled as to which axisby ampapa - Printing
Really didn't stick today... some other slight issues I noticed as well but sticking is probably the biggest. ampapa,by ampapa - Printing
Anyone have ideas on the artifacts on the X and Y axis? Z I think looks pretty good, but I'm new to the game so maybe that axis also needs some work. Thanks,by ampapa - Printing
Here are some better images of the 40mm cube, hopefully it will be easier to decipher the type of issues I should be looking for. Thanks for the assistance.by ampapa - Printing
I just re-ran the calibration cube after scaling it to 40mm and I don't understand why its so close today but the 20mm was off?by ampapa - Printing
Quoteobewan the bottom picture shows a filament diameter of 3 mm, is this what you are using ? most fillaments are 1.75mm. these days. From the video, i see no filament being extruded during the print, this could be the above menssioned setting or nozzle being too close to the bed,restricting the flow. Also i would set the 1st layer temperature a bit higher(210-220) to help 1st layer bed adhesionby ampapa - Printing
Thanks, I'll start a new thread.by ampapa - Printing
This is now moving a little off topic... so not sure if I should start another thread or continue in this one so someone let me know if that's the case. Measuring the cube dimensions shows that its not exactly 20mmx20mmx20mm so I assume that means that the stepper calculations are not correct or can that also be caused by under extrusion? Trying to figure out what I need to work on first...by ampapa - Printing
yes, I was successful in calibrating the extruder... I'm not certain what he prints are telling me except that there is work to be done. Are there good references for how to determine what the problems are and how to tweak the settings to accommodate for the problems? Slic3r has a ton of settings... ampapa,by ampapa - Printing
Quoteobiwan the bottom picture shows a filament diameter of 3 mm, is this what you are using ? most fillaments are 1.75mm. these days. checking that as I type... if its on 3mmm it's definitely wrong. Really appreciate for all the great information... I've made some success and was able to print 2 items. I'm not certain if the Z Offset was the key or if the extrusion multiplier did the tricby ampapa - Printing
yes 1st layer is .3.. Once the machine is homed and Z=0 can it actually go to a negative number as you suggest McCarmen? I've added the offset.. QuoteDigital Dentist Does the extruder click as it is trying to print that first layer? No clicking form the extruder. I'm still thinking somehow there isn't enough material being pushed.. trying to run some tests. QuoteMcCarman Also worth increasby ampapa - Printing
Thanks guys.. just realized that video resolution stinks.. published an HD version and updated original post because I think the nozzle is about there. At Z=0, I can't really get a piece of paper between it and the print bed. Good suggestion Roberts_Clif, how would I do that in Slic3r? I assume that is where the change is made. Also, is there a way for me to check if the extruder is in "sync" wby ampapa - Printing
I'm trying to get my first print to stick to my bed and I'm not having much luck... I'm using Slic3r and have gone through the program and I believe everything is set accordingly for my CoreXY setup. I'm attempting to print Hatchbox PLA at 190C on bluetape on an aluminum non-heated bed (at the moment) as I think is what is recommended. I've successfully set the extruder feed rate, hot end tempby ampapa - Printing
Awesome! thanks that go it. ampapa,by ampapa - General
After homing my axis on my coreXY my X0, Y0 are located in the front left of my machine | | | | 0,0_ _ _ _ _ If I want to start my print in the middle of the bed how do I accomplish that? | | | 150,150 | _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ EDIT noticing in Slic3r that a can move the axis.. do I need to use coordinates specifc to the pinter? x150, Y-150 I have currently got x150, y150... EDIT Lookingby ampapa - General
Not that my opinion matters at all but I have to also recommend the Duet. I'm a recent purchaser from Filastruder and still finishing my build however I believe things have gone smoothly in general because of the Duet. What I notice from your build requirements is that you want a high end machine but want to take a chance on cheap electronics, seems kind of counter intuitive if you ask me. LOL.by ampapa - General
Thanks for the explanation. I'm continually thinking of the print head moving and not the Z axis actually doing the movement.. so in that case Z+ would be correct for increasing the distance between the print head and the bed. Problem solved... well actually no problem to begin with. Ampapa,by ampapa - Slic3r
QuoteIMBoring25 As long as your Z coordinates correspond to how far away the nozzle is from the bed it's fine. Sorry maybe I didn't ask the question correctly. Since the Gcode produced is running a G28-home all zeroing the Z axis, if I then were to manually enter the Gcode produced into my control panel, I'm using a Duet, my nozzle will move 5mm closer to the print bed and effectively run itby ampapa - Slic3r
I'm running a CoreXY machine and generated some code today with slic3r and noticed when reviewing the file that the "lift nozzle" setting would move my Zaxis in the opposite direction to lift the nozzle. Is there a setting in the software to accommodate for this or do I need to manually make this change somewhere? Are there other settings as well that need to be addressed for the machine? ; genby ampapa - Slic3r
When configuring the extruder and measuring the filament output is it necessary for the printer to be at operating temperature? Can this be done "offline"? I guess the real question is should this be done through the hot end as I was going to take measurements with the PTFE tube out of the hot end...by ampapa - CoreXY Machines
That got me sorted out, thanks guys. I guess since a 3D printer deposits material and CNC removes material maybe that's the reason for the difference. On to setting up the extruder and maybe printing something today.. ampapa,by ampapa - CoreXY Machines
Here is the location of the Z switch.. Why is the Z axis backwards from a CNC I guess I should have paid more attention to the following, my Z axis is backwards.. no wonder why I'm having homing problems. So, looking at the CoreXY from the front (Z stop back right) home or 0,0,0 will be front left with the bed at the top. When beginning a print do you always start from 0,0,0 or start in thby ampapa - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist You told it to drop 350 from whatever the starting point or until it hit the switch, then go up 2.5, then drop 10, or hit the switch. Then you're telling it the absolute coordinate is Z=10, but it seems to me it's going to leave the bed near the bottom of the Z axis. Is there some reason you don't put the switch at Z=0 and then just use a normal homing command to zero tby ampapa - CoreXY Machines
Making some progress today but having some problems zeroing my Z axis... my Z axis hits the end stop and reverses direction but never attempts to touch off the end stop a second time? Original G91 ; Relative positioning G1 Z350 S1 F300 ; Move Z down until the switch triggers G1 Z-2.5 F150 G1 Z10 S1 F150 ; Move Z down until the switch triggers G90 ; Back to absoby ampapa - CoreXY Machines
They are mounted with a couple of aluminum spacers that I milled up. When assembling, both linear rails were loose on the face of the rail and tightened at the bottom when the bearing block was positioned there and at the top similarly. When the alignment was complete the vertical movement had relatively smooth action. This seems to be less a problem than the positioning of the motors and rodsby ampapa - CoreXY Machines
Thanks for the reply's. So most of this issue is related at room temperature and I'm guessing the design has some impact on it as well. I'm thinking at some point this is going to need a redesign... ampapa,by ampapa - CoreXY Machines
I'm noticing as my Z axis gets closer to my motors that there appears to be some binding. Anyone have a solution for aligning the motors/lead screws with the bed and carriages? ampapa,by ampapa - CoreXY Machines