what kind of firmware are u using, i know from marlin there is a lower temp and max temp indicator, but it w(sh)ould shut down the entire print. But maybe there is a flaw in it. but maybe just check it. If i remember correctly it was set pretty high as it was set for abs use lower th min temp to 150 or so and check again. what temps are you printing with? else tr another hostsoftware like repitby Weedz - Reprappers
maybe it could be the power suply not being able to give neough current to heat up the hotend for the amount you cool it with. are you using a 12V fan try connect it to 5 v and check thenby Weedz - General
pls make contact with NopHead aswell, his design of the printer is one of the best i think and very much scalable in XYZ independantly..... and that aquarium lighting i can print on my printer, in parts that is but very much usable as the one-part thing. Dont hang (dutchification of the word) too much on GRRF, i think you can get the same information on this forum or else on the IRC channel. wheby Weedz - General
that head was probably printed with a fill rate of 20-30% thats pretty common atleast i used that. You only need 100% fill if you have objects that are strength related. What we are trying to say is the bottom line. its more effecient to have multiple small machines then 1 big one. specially for mass production thats why i said that most big reprap producers have a farm (maybe 20 smaller machinby Weedz - General
Im only reapeting the question because you probably dont see the difficulties in printing big objects. Unless you have a state of the art machine bigger object are almost imposible to print because of shrinkage of the plastic. for printing your bottle your printer will be printing for maybe a our or 5 ( and this is really a positive guess) or smt to get acceptable quality. So printing four bottleby Weedz - General
with volume productions you mean 1 object with big volume or multiple small objects...... seeing your last post i suspect small object objects. if you take a smaller bed you would need to start you machine more often but the actual printing time would be the same. except for some handling maybe. IMHO you could better start small and build bigger if really needed but i think you wont need it wby Weedz - General
i think you mean a 0.5 mm nozzle and i think this printer can do much better aswell, but they probably optimized it for speed more then quality. with a smaller nozzle you can get little more detail and lower layer hight from the printer although some print with a 0.5mm at 0.1-0.2 mm. I dont know why you want a big volume like this, but the bigger the badder :-) i think (not always the case tho),by Weedz - General
you can also try to make the printing surface different with tape eg you could sandblast your piece of glass ofcourse aswellby Weedz - Printing
yeah you are printing way to hot go down 10- 15 degree and try again.... start with a temp were your filament start to ooze out a little from the nozzle (not alway the best method but its a start) if you start printing dots or when your extruders starts to mis steps then you are too low and raise the temp by 5 degree and your in the ball park. I have some filament on which i can print on 170.by Weedz - Printing
tnx at the moment my heatbed is resting on a piece of MDF covered by glass were i print on.... Ill check the insulation bit but i think its insulated pretty ok will have a go at the brimby Weedz - Printing
Hello guys I searched about this topic very much but i couldnt get a satisfying answer. so here is one for you all. I have a mendel90 and mostly printing in PLA and most of the time i dont have a problem with warping corners but now im printing a larger flat area i have these little "ears" curling up from the heatbed. Im currently printing at 185 degree and the heatbed at 65 (first layer 67).by Weedz - Printing
This is def not wobble of z because then you would see a shift left or right one way or they other. this looks more something like inconcsistand Z elavation moving more or less then the appropriate distance on every Zturn therefor squashing some layers more then the others. or some inconsintancy in your extruder. Does it happen if you print a bigger box and does it happen in the same 7 or 8 layeby Weedz - General
my suggestion would be a mendel90 by Nophead. very simple to build as you can use just plywood or MDF wich is easy to source. the parts are maybe the most difficult part to get then. but i think you can get them here on the forum, you shouldent be the only vietnamees builder here. anyway my 2 centsby Weedz - General
a low poly mask is very nice to print and dont take that long aswellby Weedz - General
I had some contact with the vendor about filament, they were happy to send me a batch of filament although a bit short it was pretty good filament. communications were pretty good and speed was good aswell. Now i didnt place an order of nearly 1000 dollar so i cant give you the positive advise. I dont know were you live but take in account that the shipping cost can be pretty high.by Weedz - General
tegtech Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > On most reprap designs I've seen there is 5 > stepper motors X:1 Y:1 Z:2 Extruder:1 > > and so there is on the diagram on the bottom of > thisSanguinololu wiki page but on the top of the > page, it says there can only be connected 4 > stepper motors???: you connect the 2 z steppers to 1 driver. I haveby Weedz - Reprappers
i bought a kit from this guy didnt hook it up yet, but seems pretty clear. I just didnt start reassining the pins i heared somewhere there was a problem with marlin and connecting drivers for fansby Weedz - Sanguino(lolu)
i used arduino 0022 with no problems with my Sanga.... Think that one is recommended aswelby Weedz - Sanguino(lolu)
Looks gr8 at what cost do you thinks its makable/ consumerprice?by Weedz - Look what I made!
i use it in about the same way as you do, works fine for about 6 months now. just give it a small layer of paint to control the humiditie but it wont be that big a deal. Maybe only a little height difference of the table after a period of timeby Weedz - Look what I made!
so you are stopping your project because you dont know the filament size?? pls man just ask the question, plenty of guys here that can send you a meter or to of the right size 3mm or 1.75mm, you have the 3 mm did you try to feeding it in the extruder atleast? there is a hole where it needs to feed true. easy calculation. fit is good you have a 3mm extruder, no fit > 1,75 mm, Chances are higby Weedz - Reprappers
if you are printing PLA then your Hotend temp is waaay to high. try 180 or 190 and try to go down in temperature. Problem with heating it up to 230 or higher is that PLA will heat up not only in your heatchamber but also in your feeder (PEEK) this resulting in melting in the feeder and clogging the feeder up. I had this once with an old design hotend. Donno what hotend you use but it looks likeby Weedz - Reprappers
sry bout the offtopic everyone i think i started it so back to topic indeed Sublime most ppl and average consumers are stupid ( dont want to offend anyone here) if MBI writes something on there website, 75 % of the ppl will believe its true. 25% will be somewhat more technical and will be a little bit more reluctand and of that 25% maybe 5% is on this website ( all rough estimates though). Thaby Weedz - General
thejollygrimreaper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > if you wanted it in a solidworks format and i had > acces to solidworks to do then i would do it in a > heartbeat, however solidworks is a very expensive > cad package that i cannot afford yet, thats gr8 to hear but are you going to give all the stuff you will publish to the ppl in advance. so uploadby Weedz - General
Andrew Diehl Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Open SOURCE means the program the design was made > in. NOT what program is most accessible to > everyone. It is not the designer's problem if YOU > aren't willing to spend the $$ to use what they > have provided. > > For example, all CAD requires a computer, but if I > am too broke to buy a comby Weedz - General
thejollygrimreaper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > believe it or not there are plenty of cnc > machinsts around who still to this day don't even > have decent cam software outside of things like > cambam or ancient copies of things like enroute, a > lot of them write gcode by hand, and are so tight > getting them to spend $1 on a piece ofby Weedz - General
A if a machine workshop cant open a step file they can stop working. I work in a rapid prototyping workshop and all we use are inventor and Unigraphics. And yes from customers we ask STL files but only if we do not need to alter something in it. You prefer blender openscad, but have you ever tried sending a openscad file to a machine workshop? Like i said a dimensionless file like STL has imhoby Weedz - General
thejollygrimreaper Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > here is where they've released the source for the > mk7 extruder, now unless you have a solid works > package you can't do squat with it, yeah.. i know > there is a viewer, yes i know there are a couple > of pdf files in there.... the drive gear isn't one > of them, not all machine shops in Austby Weedz - General
haha real nice job I made one couple of months ago in the same style :-) but only with Nopheads original parts and that worked pretty good aswell.... site is in dutch but the pictures tel thousand wordsby Weedz - Mendel90