I fixed my problem. Used a later version of Marlin and re-programmed. Had to manually reverse the Y axis as it wouldn't work properly by changing the directions in software, so I simply flipped the motor leads over. All working well now.by regpye - RAMPS Electronics
I have changed some settings and now I have a different problem. I can move in either direction in the Y axis, but I can't get it to home in Y. All other functions are perfect. I really can't understand what is going on. The X axis is very similar in hardware and software settings, and yet there is no problem with the X axis. The Z axis is using a hall effect sensor, so it is a little differentby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the feedback Waitaki . Yes I am sure about that, it simply reverses the direction of the homing. I have been using that on all my other builds with no problem as I have the homing switch at that end. I can say that I have now proved that the problem is somewhere in the coding because I have just finished assembling a third machine that has the same code and hardware. Same problem, Y wby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
Hi waitaki, No I am using Marlin. I have sort of proved the problem is in the coding, I have just finished building a second identical machine and programmed it with the same code. Same problem exists, so somewhere I have pulled a boo boo in the firmware setup. Section in configuration.h that has the relevant part for the stops; //=============================Mechanical Settings================by regpye - RAMPS Electronics
I have checked under the board now and found no problems. I checked all the pins too, all are straight. I am sure that the problem will be in the code of the firmware, because I have had the Y axis moving at one stage and wouldn't home. Now it is homing and not moving after homing. During the homing I have noticed that the motor does not stop after triggering the end stop as it should do. It evenby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
OK here is an update, more problems. I made some changes and turned on MAX_ENDSTOPS again as I had turned it off as I don't usually use it. Homing now works (sort of) in the Y axis. I am able to send to the home position and trigger the endstop status as shown below. Problem is that the Y motor doesn't turn off and if I turn off all motors and try to move the Y axis in either direction it will nby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for the reply Cefiar , Yes I have tried both of those suggestions and I also have tested the endstop status using M119 (I have a button in Pronterface to testing often for set-ups) After manually homing, I am able to make the Y carriage move back and forth, but it will still not home. After leaving the home position, the endstop status returns to "open" and the Y axis will still move backby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
I have a problem with a Ramps 1.4 installation. Tried all I can to sort it out and almost there, however I have exhausted any ideas on what to do next. This is a new install, all movements are working fine except for one. All movements are in the correct directions. The problem is that the Y axis will not home. If I manually home the Y axis by moving the bed to the home position iy will triggeby regpye - RAMPS Electronics
I have found that using the wet method plus heating the plate up pretty warm (hot) will allow the tape to settle down nicely and when cooled the tape has pulled very tight and no bubbles. I stopped using kapton tape after I found that glue sticks work better for me, easy to apply, easy to remove the part, not issues in use at all. Also very cheap and easy to find at most office supply stores.by regpye - General
Split isn't available when using Quick Slice as far as I can see. If I drag to the plater it is available, but the problem doesn't occur so far when dragging to the platter, it only happens when using Quick Slice.by regpye - Slic3r
I have a STL file that has two identical parts that are left and right hand. I can open the STL file and see what it looks like before slicing. After slicing the two parts have moved and joined together. (Open STL file and slice) How it looks image If I drag the same STL file to the plater, it will slice correctly. Anyone got any ideas what is happening? How it should be image I am using Windoby regpye - Slic3r
This is how I overcame the problem that you talk about. The photos will show how it is done, but basically it is a mounting plate that also acts as a heatsink as well. A M6 thread is used to mount the hotend to the mounting plate, the nut goes inside the recess that the groove mount usually goes in. Nothing to change on the extruder and the mounting plate can be made to suit any type of machineby regpye - General
QuoteI wonder if that was from the PLA residues suck on my nozzle from the previous use burning out (by the way, if anyone has a tip on how to clean these gunk out, please share with me). To clean my nozzles of any built up PLA residue I up the nozzle that has been removed from the hotend on a piece of stiff wire and then hold the nozzle in the flame of a cooker burner. The PLA will burn out anby regpye - Reprappers
Try using mentholated spirits instead of water with the PVA, it works so much better. The PVA/metho mix should be very thuin for best results, I found 75% metho to 25% PVA works well or even make it have a higher amount of metho. Spread it on the heated glass very thinly for best results, it dries transparent almost right away. Stops warping and will usually pop off the glass when cooled down, iby regpye - General
Change your relay to a solidstate relay and your problem will be gone. I am using them with mains powered heater pads on all my machines and not had one fail yet. Thermistor is built in and that is used as normal to control the electronics. The Mosfet that normally controls the 12 volt heat pad will switch the solidstate relay (no moving parts) and takes almost no power to operate. The solidstby regpye - Reprappers
My heated bed takes less than 3 minutes to get up to temperature. The heater pad is a mains powered silicon pad with the 100K thermistor built in. The Mosfet that normally controls the power to a 12 volt pad is used to operate a solidstate relay. The solidstate relay switched the mains power on and off as needed. Very simple upgrade, uses a lot less power from the 12 volt supply so there is ampleby regpye - Reprappers
I had a similar problem when designing my machine. I overcame it by laser cutting a lower plate from 3mm aluminium with an upper plate of 3mm aluminium. The two plates are connected together with silicon rubber donuts rather than springs. The donuts allow the small amount of movement needed, allow the bed to be adjusted very easy and is very rigid when printing. The LM08 bearings are mounted to tby regpye - General
I re-designed a Wades type extruder to suit my machines a little better. Not many changes were made, and the mounting was made to an aluminium plate that also attaches to the aluminium X carriage. Both act as a heat-sink as well. The M6 thread is used to do the mounting with an M6 nut that holds the plate in place, the nut fitting inside the extruder body where the PEEK section would normally go.by regpye - General
I am also using aluminium carriage and mounting base for the extruder. Hotend in the photos below are used for PLA and ABS and have a PEEK section. Can run the hotend at 250C and can put fingers on aluminium base and hardy feel any heat. Will be trying out an all metal hotend later this week and testing on nylon at 280C. Extruder image 1 Extruder image 2 Extruder image 3 I will post test resulby regpye - General
I am using mains powered heater pads for my machines. I use a solid state relay that is controlled by the thermistor that would normally switch a 12 volt heater pad. The solid state relay switches the mains power and can handle all the power needed without any problem. Because of using mains power, the cheaper and easier to find DC-AC solid state relays can be used. The DC side (control) uses betby regpye - Reprappers
I think you must have just got a bad one, because I have used well over 40 of them without any problems at all. I must say though that I use mains powered heated beds, so that saves quiet a bit of the current that you may be using. I have run dual hotends without any problem as well as the fans and motors, all on 20 amp supplies. Could be from a different source though, hard to tell when buyingby regpye - Reprappers
I had similar issues with the heated bed, warping and curling. I overcame them all by changing the heated bed to mains powered and using a DC-DC solidstate relay connected to the Printrboard bed thermistor. The solidstate relay switched the mains power to the new heater pad and heats up very quickly, just 30 seconds to reach bed temperature. The thermistor is built-in to the heated pad and theby regpye - General
I overcame the problem by getting rid of the springs and using silicon rubber donuts instead. The donuts I made because I couldn't find any, easy to make. The donuts allow you to tighten the bed down very firm and once it is set there should be no need to change it again. You can see the way I did it on my community website at Works a teat, easy to do and very stable. Cheers, Regby regpye - General
Very impressive printsby regpye - General
I found that switching some appliances on and off near the printer can do that. I also had a bad batch of USB cables, they would break connection at the slightest movement. Replaced them and had no further problem. I also had a Printrboard that had a bad connection on the USB port, the very small wire connections would disconnect at times. I had it replaced with another one that I noticed had beby regpye - General
You can use a solid-state relay for both the hot-end and also the heated bed. I am using a DC-DC solid-state relay for the hot-end as I am using 12 volts DC, but the heated bed I use a DC-AC solid-state relay because it is a mains powered heater pad. Being as they are solid-state an have no moving parts, the switching on and off (very fast) has no problem or sound. Both work fine, no issues at alby regpye - General
I used Alibre Design. It is not free but not expensive either, around $200 and well worth it. Easy to use and learn and can do many that you can see on the screen. If you need to make changes, that can be done easy too, just alter the segment in the list that is created and the file will update with the changes.by regpye - Look what I made!
There is another way. I am using this way to run the heated bed, but it could also be used for hotends as well. I use the mosfet output to drive a solidstate relay, and that can then switch on another power source that has enough power to do what you want. In my case I am using mains power to heat the heated beds, so I can use a DC-AC solidstate relay. If you are to use DC power then you would neby regpye - General
Here is mine. on machine and spool bracketby regpye - Look what I made!