Apparently one needs to turn off acceleration in the firmware when running Skeinforge. I was running fine without doing so but now I have messed up some setting and acceleration seems to be confusing things. Can anyone tell me how to switch it off? Thanks EDIT:- doh! I should have looked at the code before asking the question. configuration.h holds the answer // Data for acceleration calculby AgeingHippy - General
I certainly know how you feel. After 7 months I managed to print out my first part on sunday evening and was pretty pleased with it. I have not done anything since, but intend to spend some time this weekend calibratingby AgeingHippy - Reprappers
spacexula Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ohh, also, what other objects would you like to > see modeled, and is there an issue with me using Hmm... how about Angelina Jolieby AgeingHippy - 3D Design tools
...and a link to the shop?by AgeingHippy - For Sale
I have noticed a number of Skeinforge elements which seem to have been in RAFT but now have been removed to independant elements. Such as Temperature and (I think) Bottom - the Raft documentation contains a reference to Bottom Altitude which seems to now be in Bottom and not Raft.by AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
Thanks dude I have since moved on to Skeinforge, but it is stillusefull to know - and others may find this info usefull.by AgeingHippy - RepRap Host
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > What did you use to generate the gcode? > > > RTFM > I guess I deserved that - I am tired... Anyway, your stl seems fine - Skeinforge created a gcode file which looks fine. Must be something to do with your Host's settings.by AgeingHippy - General
Your gcode is duff a snippet here.... ;#!LAYER: 7/46 G4 P19 ;delay M107 ;cooler off G4 P20 ;delay G1 F5.0; feed for start of next move G1 Z1.85 F30.4 ;z move G1 Z2.0 F5.0 ;z move M106 ;cooler on G28 X0 ;set x 0 G28 Y0 ;set y 0 ;#!LAYER: 8/46 G4 P17 ;delay M107 ;cooler off G4 P20 ;delay G1 F5.0; feed for start of next move G1 Z2.15 F30.4 ;z move G1 Z2.3 F5.0 ;z move M106 ;cooler on G28 X0 ;set xby AgeingHippy - General
My guess is your gcode is dodgy. 1mm thick walls is 2 strands next to each other - this should not cause a problem. I have not printed such thin objects, but given one of the calibration objects is a hollow, single walled box (walls 0.5mm) 1mm is valid. Let's see your gcode...by AgeingHippy - General
That is most likely the G3 (Generation 3) electronics which you can get from Makerbot.by AgeingHippy - General
Since the pololu drivers can get rather warm he has a pc fan to cool them down. The G3 electronics actually have 2 arduinos on it - one for the motherboard and 1 for the Extruder controller. The chips are built in as dedicated rather than a generic arduino board. I don't know but I doubt adding a heated bed is any more difficult than on any of the other electronics designs. I must once again sby AgeingHippy - General
weeelll.... looking at the schematics for the pololu design I see some reference to heared bed, and Adrians comments state the firmware works with the pololu design... so I guess it does. One would need to look into it in more detail to be sure. As an aside, I would also build an Arduino clone rather than buy an arduino - a saving of £20 at least in that alone.by AgeingHippy - General
hmm.. interesting - G3 reads binary g code? Is there a switch for this when compiling the firmware or am I totally misunderstanding how it works? I thought the gcode was sent as cleartext to the motherboard eg G1 X1.5 Y16 F3000by AgeingHippy - Reprappers
my 2p (or 2 cents) would be not to use the G3 electronics. They are old hat now and the extruder controller was built to drive a dc motor as opposed to a stepper motor. - it can be made to work with a stepper motor but leaves the motor whining constantly. My ears are always ringing after I have been around my machine while the power is on. I would (if I was choosing my electronics again) go theby AgeingHippy - General
This does not look like gcode to me. the gcode is a text file (or at least all of mine is) and this seems to be a binary file...by AgeingHippy - Reprappers
Nice one. Do I need to run it in the folder I wish to have it in, or is that exe the installer which will prompt for paths etc?by AgeingHippy - 3D Design tools
Hi Tony After starting pushing plastic on friday evening (and immediately having an extruder failure in the feed process) I managed to get a fairly decent print by sunday evening. Worked all weekend dismantling and rebuilding the extruder, with most of Saturday daytime trying to get to grips with Skeinforge, then saturday evening and Sunday trying to print and again dealing with my extruder probby AgeingHippy - Reprappers
Well, I am slowly approaching the point where I will be needing software to design my models.... I am thinking HeeksCAD - the tutorials posted by Spacexula make it look fairly intuitive so I am thinking I will give it a go. I found a 10 meg HeeksCNC 0.16.0.exe here but am not sure if this is right for Windows (Vista 32bit). I have done a bit of searching but have not found anything specifyingby AgeingHippy - 3D Design tools
tony woollacott Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am starting to doubt my abilities????????? > FreeCAD explains to create a folder, download, ... etc etc > sooooooooooooooooooooooooooo non-user friendly. > All I want is the damn drawings!!!!!!! Am I alone > in this or should I just give in?? Tony If you are already asking if you should give in thby AgeingHippy - Reprappers
Cheers Ian So a workaround I wonder why Skeinforge strips the E code movements... but that should workby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
Tony Stupid question, but have you checked out the Huxley page on the wiki?by AgeingHippy - Reprappers
Hey Nop When you calculate your steps per mm for your axis, what is the formula? Also, I do notice a bit of a wobble in one of my Z-Axis M8 threaded rods.I guess this woble could be enough for the less than a mm variation? Cheersby AgeingHippy - General
Hmm... I will take a look at repsnapper although I think I should also put send.py into my set of tools. Anyone have any idea what might be the best 3G firmware for Skeinforge?by AgeingHippy - General
Problem is my pedigree is not linked to the original Darwin or even any reprap based in Bath but comes from Hydraptor - nopheads Repstrap. Not bad pedigree I agree, but it is a Hydraptor deformed child - I got a cheaper deal by buying a set containing a number of 'failed' prints... warping etc but everything is good where it matters Greg Frost said >> What about all of the repraps printby AgeingHippy - General
Hi Guys You misunderstand me. The 'restart error' I have experianced is when the plastic has cooled down and solidified and is when I next heat up and try extrude. All in this post. I may not need this anymore but it would be usefull to understand why it is stripping the E codee movements. Anyway, it is the 1.5/2cm feedstock retraction at the end of my print which is stripped. ie. my end.gcodby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge
Yes - I retract only enough to avoid the soft plastic. The retraction also tends to streach the hot plastic a little so any bulges due to feed pressure are removed... Possibly not neccesary, but seems to work for now.by AgeingHippy - General
Hey Madkite I have to agree with you on the software bigtime. (assuming you are talking about Reprap host). It works, kind-of, but is so buggy it drives me crazy. I have moved on to Skeinforge for generating my gcode but still use Reprap host for jogging my axis around, testing the extruder and also the loading and printing the one object I ave printed so far. It looks like the type of thing onby AgeingHippy - General
Last night I managed to print my first 20x20x10 mm cube after 2 failed attempts where everything went tits up while laying down the raft due to having oozed the barrel empty that half the raft was printed with no extrudate (is there such a word?) Third attempt I had the extruder circumvent the table printing a single line before heading in to print the raft. This countered the ooze and the printby AgeingHippy - General
Just to give some feedback. I drilled out my barrel to 3.5mm for a depth of about 7mm and also reamed out the constriction at the PTFE (thanks Nop ) Brass interface. I also tend to retract about 2cm of feedstock when I am done printing to reduce ooze and also to attempt prevention of blockage when I next heat up and run the extruder. This seems to work.by AgeingHippy - General
Hi All I have decided, in order to try reduce ooze and also to combat my restart errors with the extruder, I have placed some retraction code for my extruder in end.gcode Skeinforge strips these G1 Enn steps out of the final eport gcode file. Any tips? Thanksby AgeingHippy - Skeinforge