You say the motor runs fine when plugged into x. So what if you plug the x motor into the z driver, will the x motor work or does it just vibrate?by n9jcv - Prusa i3 and variants
What is see is missing extrusion on the side, missing on the top, by the z letter, to me it appears that maybe your extruder is slipping or missing steps, you do not have consistent extrusion for some reason.by n9jcv - Prusa i3 and variants
Another quick option, using cura, would be to check the spiralize the outer contour, vase mode, this will increase the height of z constantly verrry slowly Normally used when printing a vase, so it never just goes up at each layer, but constantly spirals upby n9jcv - Reprappers
being that you swapped the xy/z motors and the xy did not move on the z, I am thinking the board/stepper driver is bad on z. It does not look like they are using stepper modules, which would mean you would need to get a new control board. I would just go cheap and get arduino, ramps and stepper drivers, probably less than $20 for everything.by n9jcv - Reprappers
You could try lowering yor temp to help with oozing as wellby n9jcv - Printing
I would think there is PETG filalment left in the hotend, nozzle, throat, that has reduced the flow area. Being PLA prints a lower temperature, thus not allowing PLA extrusion smoothly. I think some people use separate hotends when switch between pla and petg to avoid this contamination. pla is generally way easier to print than petgby n9jcv - Prusa i3 and variants
Sometimes if you try to slice/print an object, that say the walls are too thin for your nozzle, it will do that. I use Cura, and if I load a thin wall box, and the wall is too thin for the nozzle, it will do that. Use the preview, layer by layer if you have it, you should see there that nothing is going to print. Then you can adjust your model and reslice or find something else to print.by n9jcv - Printing
Yes retraction settings could cause this. What type of printer do you have? Is it a direct feed extruder or a Bowden feed? Each will have different retraction settings. Just as a wild ballpark, a direct should be about 1.5mm say at 60mms and a Bowden (length of bowden about 200mm) should be 4.0mm at 60mms. What slicer are you using? Each has various retraction settings.by n9jcv - Printing
Well, I moved the front Belt, the upper bearing mount, 4mm to the left, trying to make it perpendicular to the bed, as best I could with a square and level. I now have improvement. The 80mm tall triangle, now has 1/2, .4mm lean to the right, vs the .8mm of lean I previously had. This is now better. Not sure if I will continue to play with it, or just accept it as is.by n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
Thanks tgmorris I am making some adjustments now. I did not see how the plumb bob would work here, because the bed and the xy plane are not necessarily level, they are in the same plane, but not level, but the plumb bob was to ensure the belt is 90 degrees to a level plane. So I modified the idea a bit, I am using a square and a level on the square, allowing me to measure the belt to the sameby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
Maybe the z rods are not the problem. Maybe it is the front belt pulling the bed? Hmmmmmby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
Some further information. I printed one triangle in front of each z rod. They still are not exactly square, but the error is much less. It appears they are only slanted by about .2mm, hard to measure. Both appear to be equal in the slanting. So the condition is worse as you move away from the z rods. So I am still stuck on what is the fix, if it is the bed twist or the z rods not at a rightby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
So I took the suggestion of tgmorris, and printed a rectangle, 20x40x80, with the orientation 45 degrees to the edge of the bed. Also, I checked the bed level as Mogal suggested, it is not level, but that is not the point, table is most likely not level, any, the bubble did not appear to move during the entire movement of the z, I also checked moving the z the entire 260, and there was no movemeby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
I printed 2 triangles - 180 degrees flipped, with fan at 20% - still same issue so I don't see it as the fan Next to try the tgmorris idea triangles at 45 degrees and maybe even a square as he suggests that would rule out steppersby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
the fluctuating is probably because you have not PID tuned the hotend. To do that you use the M303 command. Go to this page, it will tell you how to use the M303, then it should stay within a couple degrees and not 10. reprap wiki search for M303by n9jcv - Reprappers
Holy cow. That may be it. The print cooling fan IS on the left. I guess i need to flip the triangle 180 degrees and see. I will try and post results later. Thanks for the idea!!!!by n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
So you are showing it can skew a bit, but the belts will precisely control the movement on both sides, and they in theory should prevent any slop like you are showing. I think it will be fine. By the way, looks like awesome work, even without a milling machine!!!by n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
So thanks for the input I can understand concern about plastic parts, but I do not believe that is the issue here. I did measure the diagonals, using a tape, the most accurate way I have to measure large diagonals, and they are all within 1mm of each other. Here is another way I am looking at it. First, the xy corexy movement rods/belts, etc they form a plane for the print head. This plby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
Well I moved the z rods, at the bottom 1.5 mm to the right. Reprinted, still have the same result no change I am puzzled at this pointby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
So I slowed it way down to 30mm/s for everything moves, fill perimiters 20mm for first layer Still same result. Below is a pic of the objects printed. two tall triangles 90 degrees to each other The triangle that goes from front to back measures at a right angle sides a and b The triangle that was sitting from left to right has the issue. The top of the triangle is pushed towards tby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
Running smoothie 1.4amps to 1.7 amp motors. Motors are cool and drivers on board only slightly warm.by n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
Belts and pulleys double checked and marked and found no slipping.by n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
I have insulation between the aluminum and the wood. I do not believe that is the issue. I have measured the z rods at top and bottom and the position is within .1 mm. So they are not slanted. I am sure there is something I am missing but I dont know what.by n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
I measure the edge of the bed to the side frame at top and bottom and it is the same distance from the side, so i believe that is square. The end stop adjuster is a separate piece that mounts on the bearing holder and i believe the adjuster is not sitting square. Circles print completely circular so I believe belt tensions are good.by n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
perhaps something mechanical, your extruder gear is slipping? Thermistors do go bad, but usually they just fail completely. Have you monitored the temps on the display are they constant or do they move around? You could do the PID tuning, this will keep the temp more accurately closer to the temp that you have set in the slicer. If using marlin, use M303 see reprap wiki for help, butby n9jcv - Reprappers
Being that it stops at 75, it makes me wonder if you have the hotend misconfigured as the hotbed. For Ramps, the hot end is D10 and the hotbed is D8 Also the config file will have max temp for each These should be in your config file #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275 #define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275 #define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275 #define BED_MAXTEMP 100by n9jcv - Reprappers
It appears to be a E3D V6 clone hotend. They are on ebay, aliexpress, cheap, less than $10 E3D makes originals that are more than $50 What broke? You can actually buy a new throat, tip, heatsink, heater, thermistor, whatever it is that broke as well and possibly fix it.by n9jcv - General
I recently built a corexy. It is running pretty well. In some of my final calibration, I noticed one area that is off. Say you print a tall square object. Looking from the front of the bed, If the object is 150mm tall, If I check the left side of the object to the bottom of the object I find that the object is not a square 90 degree angle, it is slightly less. Meaning that the upper layers dby n9jcv - CoreXY Machines
Assuming the glass is clean, with alcohol or something..... Then there are 2 likely reasons for this 1) since it only happens in back, the bed is too close to the nozzle 2) you are overextruding To check #1, pull up the first layer look at the bottom the 3 sides that work will likely look smooth and not broken the back will look broken, lines going across the extrusion line, meaning itby n9jcv - Printing