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danlad1631 Wrote:
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> How hard is it to setup OctoPrint via Raspberry
> Pi? I've always got my printer setup on the dinner
> table and it doesn't go down very well with the
> wife a kids.it would be nice to keep it in smaller
> area.
>
> Is there any detailed instructions online about
> it? Have you got any pictures of
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I print with a raspberry pi running octopi as well and I'd definitely recommend it. I've never had a print cut out and there hasn't been any loss in print quality either. I'm sure you'd be fine with a shorter, shielded usb cable.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
When I try to print multiple objects on the same bed, the print quality starts to drop. It looks like it either extrudes too much or too little when it transitions from object to object. Any tips on fixing this?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
No problem. And when did you receive your kit? I remember something about the ABS profile being the correct profile for PLA. I think he fixed it in the newer kits, but that was the case with the kit I received around May/June.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
220 seems a little high for PLA, I print ABS at 230 and sometimes 220. I'm not sure about the exact dimensions, but you can find them here:
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BrianC
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Mendel90
My only printer has been the mendel 90, but I did a lot of research on the prusa's as well. In terms of cost, the total bill I calculated sourcing parts for the 90 came out around $100 higher than the i3, but that was because I couldn't find a dibond supplier in the US, and shipping was just too expensive. That's actually kind of ironic, I could ONLY find dibond suppliers in the UK on google. Thi
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Yea picture 1 looks like the z home point value is too large, so the first layer is coming out too thin. Not sure what's happening with 2 or 3. 4 looks like your bed isn't level, the part with the inconsistencies should be raised a bit so there's more "squish". Just my opinion though, either way congrats on finishing your build!
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I agree that some things could be specified a little clearer for people with no electronics/programming experience, but aside from those, I don't think there's anything wrong. The apparent contradiction for the heater test isn't actually a contradiction...the first time you heat up the hot end, there isn't any residual filament, so it doesn't matter if you heat it up without loading it. And as fo
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Ah alright. Is it possible to give me a general outline of what I need to do to control another heater based on a separate thermistor with the melzi?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
So I made a quick "heated chamber" with some styrofoam insulation boards just to see if it would help print strength (it definitely did) and quickly found that it's too difficult to keep the air temperature constant. I'd rather not have to add a separate circuit for temperature control, so would moving the bed thermistor to a place near the print bed, but not on, work? The bed would then just be
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Ok I'll give that a try, thanks.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I'm not certain, but from what I could see it looked like the layers weren't sticking and were getting dragged around, which just kept propagating and creating a mess. I was using hexagonal infill at 25% and 1.5 w/h. Should I increase the w/h ratio even more?
Wow that's a lot of weight.....yea I think I'll try a combination of that and printing with a skirt going all the way up and around the ob
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I see, so do you know of any features based on budget?
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BrianC
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General
I'm already printing at .2 mm layer height and I haven't gotten good results from anything lower. Although that was with PLA, I haven't tried .1 with ABS yet. Is it typically easier to go lower with ABS?
I'm planning to make a heated chamber for that, but I'm still a little weary about putting all the electronics in there. I was thinking about a small peltier setup that blows air from the hot si
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I'm looking to upgrade my reprap, both to achieve better prints and to learn, but I couldn't really think of what to do aside from making everything out of metal. I figure there's already a well known path of upgrades all 'professional' printers have been through, and the only reason repraps aren't as refined is due to a lower budget. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
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BrianC
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General
I've been trying to print a bracket for a water pump, but due to poor layer adhesion, the bracket just falls apart instead of flexing and clamping onto the pump. I did some research and the usual advice was increase extrusion temp, but I've already increased it from 230 to 250 and there's still not much of a difference. Any advice on getting stronger prints?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Thanks that worked perfectly. I thought I had messed something else up, didnt think the glass could make such a big difference.
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BrianC
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Reprappers
Up until today I printed abs with a heatbed, 2.5mm thick glass, and then kapton tape. It worked pretty well until the glass cracked trying to remove a piece. So until I get another piece of glass, Im trying to print on the heatbed with a layer of kapton tape. But for some reason my prints now turn out like the attached image. Thats supposed to be a hollow cylinder. Any ideas about whats going on?
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BrianC
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Reprappers
Has anyone experimented with the effects of different platforms underneath the printer on print quality? I used to print on a relatively rigid desk that didn't move at all during prints, but after moving to the garage, it now sits on an old table that vibrates very noticeably and seems to dampen the movements from the printer. I definitely noticed an increase in print quality.
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BrianC
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Reprappers
Ah I see. Well disconnecting the jumper worked, finished an 8 hour print with no problems. Thanks a lot for the help.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Yea I would keep it connected, but it would probably disconnect in 5 min. That's another problem I have to fix. I tried removing the auto reset jumper and its been going for about 2 hours without any problems.
The thermistor leads are insulated with ptfe and there is heat shrink connecting it with the wire at the ends, so it's an inch or two away.
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BrianC
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Mendel90
Oh sorry when you asked what I have to do to get it going again, I forgot to mention I do turn the printer off before reconnecting since I'm printing from sd card. So I guess I do reset it to get it going again. Does that mean MAXTEMP error is still a possibility? If not, then what would you best guess be?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
No I didn't remove the auto reset jumper. Is it only supposed to be attached while updating firmware?
Power connections look good, there's no movement when I wiggle it around either.
That's the strange part, I don't have to do anything to get it going again, just start up another print and it'll be fine until the same thing happens again. Print quality looks good too. Something I noticed after
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I was printing abs at 230C from sd card and about 2 hours into the print, the printer just stopped. Does it maybe have something to do with overheating? Fan was off the entire print and I do have the fan duct attached which I've read can build up heat in the area.
I did just install a new jhead as well, but it was working flawlessly up until it stopped. All the connections in the jhead were sold
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BrianC
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Mendel90
I just put together a j-head MK-V and was wondering how I should go about calibrating it. There seems to be so many variables like placement/fit of thermistor, type of thermal compound, tolerance of thermistor, location of temperature measurement, etc. This is the first time I've assembled a hotend and I only have a dozen or so prints under my belt so I don't have enough experience with any speci
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BrianC
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Reprappers
Thanks for the recommendations, just placed an order for some putty and thermal paste.
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BrianC
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General
Does anyone have any recommendations for thermal paste for the thermistor/heater? I've seen a few brands tossed around in various threads, but none of them were rated for temperatures above 200C. Thanks for any help.
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BrianC
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General
Thanks for the links guys, did some reading and definitely feel more confident doing this now.
@ohioplastics: I'm still not 100% sure what PID is, but after some googling I feel like my printer doesn't use it. It's just a stock mendel 90 from nophead without any electronics mods.
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BrianC
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Reprappers
Hi, my jhead jammed so I'm planning to buy another one. The thing is I want to assemble my own, sort of as a learning experience and because i want to recycle some of the components from the jammed hot end. The thermistor needs to be standard or else I'd need to find/create the resistance/temp table right? And would the heater change anything in the firmware? I have a mendel 90 with custom marlin
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BrianC
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Reprappers
I just got an idea...what if I hooked up my vacuum pump to the back of the nozzle? Seems to me like it'd be a lot easier, cleaner, and faster assuming the jam comes out as one piece. Anyone know the type of threads these nozzles have?
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BrianC
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Mendel90
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Pages: 123