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Building an electronic art project? Or a software radio? Think blue LEDs are cool? Are you a circuit bender? Discuss it here.
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 3 years ago
Quotedc42 The thermal cutouts I bought were these . They have insulated bodies (the listing says plastic, but the ones I received are ceramic) and a convenient screw hole for attaching them to an aluminium bed plate. They are self-resetting, which means you can test them without writing them off. Please note, the 15A rating is almost certainly for AC use, and will be much lower when used with DCby David J - General
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 3 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist QuoteDavid J In the end I found some very small thermal fuses that are plastic-encapsulated, small and can carry 2A (I need less than 1A). Hopefully one of them will do the job nicely if I use high-temp silicone to fix it in place. There will be cork insulation & a backing plate to keep everything safe & secure. What kind of heater uses less than 1A? I've gotby David J - General
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 3 years ago
I managed to find some woven (fibreglass?) heat-proof sleeving on ebay - smaller than I expected when I saw it, but it was big enough for the thermal fuse leads. I think it cost me about £0.90 - about $1.50?by David J - General
Re: Heat bed Mk3 - 3 years ago
I have a 12v Mk3 heatbed on my Prusa i3 - it will make 100C if I wait long enough (20+ minutes). It struggles to maintain it if the room is cold though. To achieve this I had to put insulation on the bottom of the heater - 2 layers of 2mm cork, with a 1.2mm aluminium plate to hold the cork on. I used the screw holes in the heatbed to hold everything together, using nuts and washers to get tby David J - General
Re: gcode file not saved after printing - 3 years ago
I had this issue once - but shortly afterwards found that my power supply was giving low voltage. Reset it to the correct voltage and never saw the issue again. My (uneducated) guess is that the processor(s) was/were working at the threshold and misbehaved. Never seen it since (fingers crossed).by David J - Duet
Re: Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 3 years ago
In my case, the replacement fan was a ball-bearing type - the noise from the airflow was awful as the fan ran a lot faster than the old one!by David J - Reprappers
Re: Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 3 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist A resistor or a few diodes in series will drop the fan's voltage and reduce the speed and noise level. It would take quite a few diodes to drop the voltage enough to reduce the speed on a 24v fan! I took the alternative approach - I peeled the label off the old fan that screeched on start-up and put a tiny drop of thin oil on the sleeve bearing. Seems to have cured theby David J - Reprappers
Re: Bumpy surface when using Slic3r? - 3 years ago
Ahh - I understand now! In the meantime I've got Cura to behave properly with this printer so I'll mostly be using that, but I will shortly revisit this problem for possible slic3r use in the future. Thanks to everyone for the guidance.by David J - Printing
Re: Bumpy surface when using Slic3r? - 3 years ago
You're probably right on a few counts... I always measure my filament in a few places, but maybe not 20 - 30 places. Perhaps 5 or 10. I'll try the 'wipe while retracting' setting, although I'm not sure what it really means! I assumed that it was something to do with multiple hot ends and cleaning the nozzle that's about to be brought into service. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'll also try theby David J - Printing
Bumpy surface when using Slic3r? - 3 years ago
I've been trying to sort out a few minor problems on my CoreXY printer - I've recalculated the Z steps-per-mm value and that's good, and also the extrusion is now calibrated. The only real issue I'd like to address is the lumpy surface I get on vertical faces. However, I am quite sure that this is a Slic3r settings issue rather than a printer problem. The left cube shows the lumps, the rightby David J - Printing
Re: [SALE] Duet 0.6 boards - 3 years ago
Send them an email - contact@replikeo.com - they will organise a PayPal payment request. I ordered one a little while ago, and it arrived today. Looks fine, although not tested yet (printer not ready).by David J - For Sale
Re: Quieter hotend cooling fans? - 3 years ago
I've suddenly taken an interest in this subject - my 40mm hot-end cooling fan had started to screech on start-up, probably due to an unlubricated sleeve bearing, so I replaced it with a ball-bearing one from E3D's on-line store. It certainly spins very fast and shifts a huge amount of air, but it is SO NOISY! It's not the fan's motor, it's just the air rushing through its blades & frame. Iby David J - Reprappers
Re: Recycling Filament Spools - 3 years ago
You could always do this... Topsby David J - Safety & Best Practices
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 3 years ago
In the end I found some very small thermal fuses that are plastic-encapsulated, small and can carry 2A (I need less than 1A). Hopefully one of them will do the job nicely if I use high-temp silicone to fix it in place. There will be cork insulation & a backing plate to keep everything safe & secure. This is turning out to be an escalating job... started by ordering the heating pad, thby David J - General
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 3 years ago
Have you considered trying a totally different filament material, such as PETG? More durable than PLA, less demanding to print than ABS (and less smelly). It's not the easiest stuff to use - I found that I had to print at a much slower speed to avoid stringing - and the colour choices are limited. The hot-end temp is 230 - 250 (similar to ABS) but the bed is 50C to 80C, and if you're really luckby David J - Reprappers
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 3 years ago
Thanks for that - very useful info, and gives me loads to consider. I hadn't realised that the shell of the TCO was live, although it makes sense when I look at the pictures of the ones I'm considering - one lead is fixed to the case. Is it safe to trust kapton tape to insulate the TCO from 230v AC? Even if it was a good-enough insulator I'd be scared that the tape would get pierced or worn thrby David J - General
Re: How to fit a thermal fuse? - 3 years ago
It was the "how you mount it" bit that I was most interested in!by David J - General
How to fit a thermal fuse? - 3 years ago
I have just upgraded the heatbed on my printer: I've gone from an aluminium Mk3 RepRap heater at around 120W to a 200W Keenovo silicon-encased heater stuck to 5mm aluminium tooling plate. As a result the bed heating time has gone down from approaching 30 minutes to around 5 minutes. When I was tuning the heatbed the firmware warned me that in the case of thermal runaway the heater could achieveby David J - General
Re: [SALE] Duet 0.6 boards - 3 years ago
I've already asked them the same question - the answer from the man at Replikeo was: Hi David, I recommend one of this two shipping methods which are both within a week: EMS E-packet 9 usd DHL 24 usd Payment will be done through paypal to secure the transactionby David J - For Sale
Re: Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 3 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD Well then you do have an option. Use the Xbox psu for everything except the bed. Get a 200w 24v psu for the bed these are usually fanless. It's a thought - but the XBox psu is 12v, and everything in my machine is 24v... it's an avenue worth exploring though. Of course, I could abandon the 24v bed heater and go to a 240v mains-powered one via an SSR, allowing me to use a much smalby David J - General
Re: Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 3 years ago
QuoteDjDemonD If you're using mains/line for the bed a laptop style fanless psu is plenty for hotends/fans/motors 120w should do it 150w if you want a little headroom. I've two machines with laptop type PSUs for everything except the bed and they function very well. On my kossel Xl I printed a top cover for the psu with a lot of holes in it as it's sits in the electronics compartment under the beby David J - General
Re: Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 3 years ago
I've been reasonably successful with a couple of the LED power supplies, but I never take them to their limit - they usually run way below their max loading. The 12v one on my Prusa i3 has been re-cased with an 8" computer case fan (and that IS noisy!) and runs at about 12A. The 24v one is currently running at about 10A or so. In both cases their fans run continuously - maybe that's why they'veby David J - General
Trying to find a quieter 24v PSU - 3 years ago
I have managed to get the mechanism of my CoreXY printer nice and quiet through the use of 0.9 stepper motors and so on, but this has emphasised the noise that my 24v PSU makes - it's really annoying. The PSU is the usual Chinese LED type, 24v at 15A, and it works really well apart from the fan noise. Are there any reasonably priced PSUs available with that sort of rating, that don't make so muby David J - General
Re: Help again - 3 years ago
Looks like too much plastic is being pushed out. Have you calibrated the extruder?by David J - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: DWC not updating - uploaded 1.19 and it still shows version 1.11 after refreshing page? - 3 years ago
Mine has always shown the correct version after an update. You could try the "write it directly to the SD card" option shown in the documentation. I presume that you've seen the documentation - HEREby David J - Duet
Re: Which Material for CoreXY parts - 3 years ago
The zelogik design has already been translated into plastic - the G&C printer More info here: This is what I've built, with only a few modifications. It's currently sitting about 100mm from my left elbow as I type, as I've been printing some parts today! The designer has also published a more sturdy version using linear slides, but that's a lot more expensive to build.by David J - General
Re: Is there a problem with PLA filament supplies in the UK? - 3 years ago
Ha! Thread reactivation! As it happens, HobbyKing started to re-stock PLA & ABS filament a few weeks after my original post, so my problem has gone away.by David J - General
Re: Problems with autotuning hot end after upgrade to 1.19 - 3 years ago
I visit too many forums (fora?) as it is! But I will probably post this over there shortly...by David J - Duet
Problems with autotuning hot end after upgrade to 1.19 - 3 years ago
Setup: Duet 0.6 board that was running successfully on v1.17e. E3D v6 hot end (genuine!) Problem: Upgraded to 1.19 this morning, worked through the release notes and everything seems good - apart from when I try to autotune the hot end. It keeps coming back with the dreaded "Auto tune cancelled because target temperature was not reached". The command I used was M303 H1 S250 I get the error asby David J - Duet
Re: Release notes for v1.19? - 3 years ago
Right - I seem to have upgraded! Not entirely without problems - I can't get autotune to work properly on the hot end, but I'll deal with that in a new topic.by David J - Duet