I believe there are two shells around the holes. At least, the nozzle goes around each one twice. I sliced them at .3mm layer height with a .4mm nozzle.by Rich K. - Mendel90
They need to either get rid of their censor software, change it so it only bans blatantly offensive language, or allow readers to report posts and ban offensive posters and spammers based on the reports, or at the very least set things up so that you know what the censors are catching so the post can be modified appropriately.by Rich K. - General
I am working on replacing all the PLA parts in my "Sturdy" with ABS parts. Sliced the fixing blocks and didn't realize I had forgotten to re-set the infill to 90% so my blocks printed out at 25% infill (rectilinear pattern). I hate to waste the plastic, but would fixing blocks at 25% infill be strong enough to use?by Rich K. - Mendel90
How does one go about contacting the forum admins? I tried to post in the "I made this" section, and it wouldn't allow me to do so on the basis that a word that I used had been banned. I checked over my post and found nothing that anyone should find offensive or objectionable, and the error message went on to say I should contact the forum administrators.by Rich K. - General
Quotedmould I agree that the STL probably needs repair. I am puzzled as to why Cura should produce dimensional inaccuracies - AFAIAA it should create exactly the same perimeter positions as Slic3r. DaveThe new version of Slic3r has an X/Y compensation setting that helps to adjust for things like undersized holes. I have not found a similar feature in Cura that does not involve resizing the entiby Rich K. - Slic3r
I am trying to print out ABS parts to replace the PLA parts that my original Mendel90 parts kit is made of. While printing out the X idler bracket and X motor bracket, I found that Slic3r is filling in the traps for the z-screw nuts as if those traps were not even there. Cura does not have that problem, but I am having problems with dimensional accuracy in Cura. Why would Slic3r be filling in somby Rich K. - Slic3r
Quotecdru Usually they are just variations of the original base design that have been tweaked for a particular application, convenience, or to make them "better" in the eyes of the tweaker. I've seen different designs that have the idler hinged while others have 4 tension screws. The filament may pass through a hole in the idler bracket, others fit into a slot. Some have tension screws that canby Rich K. - General
I am eagerly awaiting the arrival of an E3D-V6 to replace my J-head Mk. V-BV. I am wondering, though: should I put something like spark plug anti-seize compound (the grey, not the copper) on the threads of my heat-break and also the nozzle threads? I am concerned about dis-similar metal corrosion making it difficult to disassemble the hotend if (heaven forbid) I should have to replace the heat-brby Rich K. - General
I built the "sturdy" version of the Mendel90, and I am quite pleased with it. Nice thing about it (besides the heavier-duty threaded and smooth rods: 8mm and 10mm, respectively) is that I was able to make the frame myself from 1/2" MDF (specs call for 12mm, but there's not all that much difference, functionally - you just have to open up the notches in the spool holder brackets a bit). Nophead isby Rich K. - General
One of the complaints I have heard about Cura (or about most of the other "user-friendly" slicers, for that matter) is their dimensional inaccuracy. Nophead likes to use Skeinforge for that reason, but I have found Skeinforge to be rather user UN-friendly. I have read, however, that older versions of Cura used Skeinforge embedded into them. 1) Does anyone here happen to like the older "Skeinforgby Rich K. - Experimental
Wow - with those prices I would DEFINITELY have to make it a "one of these years" modification! Now, I'm running a Panelolu2 on my Melzi. Could I possibly run a second extruder off one of the MOSFETs on the Melzi adapter for the Panelolu2? How would I have to adapt the firmware, if so? That would at least allow me to run a Cyclops without changing the electronics.by Rich K. - Mendel90
QuoteRalph.Hilton The carriage would need LM10UU modification. Okay, I got the direct feed version of the V6 instead of the Bowden feed. I found a carriage, though, that uses LM10UU bearingsby Rich K. - Mendel90
I just bought an E3D V6 today, and while I was on the E3D web page I saw a couple of neat upgrades. One was the "Kraken" 4-nozzle setup, and the other was the "Cyclops", a single nozzle with two Bowden filament inputs. A bit beyond my means right now, but I am wondering: what electronics would I have to swap out for my Melzi in order to drive two or more extruders? RAMPS? Or something else?by Rich K. - Mendel90
QuoteRalph.Hilton I use an E3D v6 and changed the extruder block to gain back most of the lost height. I have used a 0.25mm nozzle with 3m filament and it works fine. I switched the fan for a 40mm one fitted to the carriage which is much quieter than the supplied one. Well, I just bought an E3D V6 today (got some money for my birthday a couple days ago). What extruder block and carriage did youby Rich K. - Mendel90
Definitely over-extruding, then. All of the above-mentioned symptoms are there. I didn't have this problem withthe CHinese J-head clone I was using, but when it broke (long story) and I switched to the genuine J-head (which supposedly has the same nozzle size, 0.4mm), I started having this problem. My prints are coming out crappy, and I have wasted a lot of filament. I have my filament diameterby Rich K. - Printing
Quote3dkarma Over-extrusion? Don't know. How would I check for that? I calibrated my extruder by marking the filament sticking out above my extruder at 100mm, then telling Pronterface to extrude 100mm. I noted the difference, then made the change thus in Marlin: // Mendel90 hobbed bolt and 39:11 Wade's gears #define E_STEPS_PER_MM ((3200 * 39.0)/(11.0 * 6.75 * 3.142)) * (100.0/91.0) Where it exby Rich K. - Printing
I would like to print anything from PLA to polycarbonate. That being said, if necessary I will simply have a separate extruder module set up with whatever hotend I plan to use (use the J-head for PLA and the metal hotend for everything else, in other words). I would, however, prefer to have just ONE hotend for everything, as it reduces the number of things I have to recalibrate.by Rich K. - Mendel90
No, it smells like ABS. I started with a completely clean nozzle (burned all the old ABS out with a torch before I screwed it into the new PEEK barrel; the inside was nice and shiny). THe nozzle/heater block is screwed in as tight as it is capable of going. It's almost as if it is wiping up some of the material and depositing it on the outside of the nozzle, where it then "cooks" and flakes off.by Rich K. - Printing
I just started using a J-head Mk. V-BV (had to rebuild it after the temp regulation went bad and destroyed the PEEK and damaged my Melzi last December). The print bed is as level as I can get it (there is a dip about .005", or .127mm, in the middle of the borosilicate glass), and I have the Z height set. I noticed the nozzle seems to pick up material (I'm using ABS), scorch it, then leave the burby Rich K. - Printing
I am thinking about upgrading my "sturdy" from a J-head (Mk. V-BV) to an all-metal hotend. Way I see it, there are two main choices if I don't want to go Chinese (which I really don't - I have found that Chinese hotends are hit-or-miss in terms of quality). Those choices are the Hexagon and the E3D. I plan to keep my Wade's geared extruder, and not go to a Bowden setup. 1) Like to hear from anyoby Rich K. - Mendel90
My parts kit was from EBay (US maker). All parts except the extruder, fan duct, and I believe the X carriage ware all PLA. I plan to make replacements for all of them out of ABS so I don't have to worry about traveling with my printer and leaving it in a hot car in the summer. I already have printed out a spare X carriage designed for an E3d fan duct (I plan to upgrade from a J-head eventually),by Rich K. - Mendel90
Problem is, right now I do not know how to use ANY CAD software to modify drawings. I try to print things like gear sets for my extruder, and end up with holes that are too small for my motor shaft and bolt. Best I can do in that situation is ream out the holes, and clean out the nut traps with a knife, but that really is not a satisfactory solution because I can't guarantee concentricity.by Rich K. - Slic3r
My son's Cub Scout pack is having its Pinewood Derby next month, and I offered to make trophies for the winners. They are all Filamex brand 3mm ABS. The bases are black, while the cups are glow-in-the-dark green. I used the "change filament" setting on my Panelolu2 to interrupt the print just as the bases of the cups were getting started, then switched from the black to the glow-in-the-dark greby Rich K. - Look what I made!
Cool! Now we need one that will fit the "Sturdy" model (12mm or 1/2" MDF)...by Rich K. - Mendel90
Hey, all! When I built my Mendel90 "Sturdy", the plastic parts kit came with printed T5 8-tooth pulleys. While they worked, the teeth were rather rounded and the bores ended up not being very concentric. I had considered printing out a new set in ABS (the originals were PLA, and were NOT made by Nophead), but looking on EBay under "Mendel90", I ran across these: Aluminum 8-tooth T5 pulleys - EBaby Rich K. - Mendel90