That is impressive print quality! Can you tell us what type of layer height and line thickness you used? And type of printer? I'm guessing it took a LOT of iterations to achieve these prints. Great work.by Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
I print many small parts (e.g. 7mm x 7mm x 8mm) at one time and want to fit more on the plate so I can print more at a time. The spacing between the part is the limiting variable. Is there a way to reduce the spacing between parts? I'm using PrusSlicer2.0. Thank you.by Garry Bartsch - Slic3r
Thank you. That McMaster-Carr stuff looks very good. But it itself isn’t cheap. I'm not able to order from McMaster-Carr anymore (they said security reasons and the last order was a mess) but have a friend with an old account who still can. I will surely keep this as a backup. 600F is plenty for my needs and Shore 40A sounds great.by Garry Bartsch - General
I am presently trying fireplace silicone caulk which is good to 315C but it's viscous and doesn't slow; I must force the silicone into the mold and that means capturing small, deep, details is difficult.by Garry Bartsch - General
Thanks for writing. My use is for something other than the silicone sock. I have used Mold Star 15 and at Shore 15A it's softer than I would like but I hesitated to try the Mold Max 60 because wasn't sure that Shore 60A was soft enough but maybe I need to try it. The Troll Factory material is Shore 33A and it doesn't look too hard according to Stefan's video. It's difficult to tell without tryingby Garry Bartsch - General
I would really like to buy the high temperature two-part silicone Stefan (CNC Kitchen) used on his silicone sock video. It's made by Troll Factory in Germany and they don't ship outside Europe. Can anyone suggest how I could get this to Canada? Or does anyone know of a similar product in North America? I have searched without much success. I really hate it when one can't buy special products thatby Garry Bartsch - General
Love this!by Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
Thank you @Diggrr and @Moriquendi. That works like magic. Or science. Best regards ...by Garry Bartsch - General
I have a few loose heater cartridges without identification so I don't know their voltage or wattage rating. Can someone tell me how to test for these? I assume I will hook up a multimeter to the leads and look for some resistance value but I haven't been able to find the settings to use. Thank you in advance or any help.by Garry Bartsch - General
QuoteOhmarinusUnless you like to experiment, which I think you do You read me well. :-) Sometimes it's difficult to know when to stop iterating. I will keep looking on the Smooth-on site for materials. I don't have much experience with PU but will try to learn more. Have a good day!by Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
QuoteOhmarinus I can imagine making a 3-stage mold where you first cast some softer PU, then remove a mold piece to cast the rest of the harder PU. These two should be able to bond together so you have the construction with hard solid PU and a softer part where your more fragile skin/hands have to touch it. I like this idea very much. Maybe in the future I will try that. Can you recommend a softby Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
Thanks for your comments! I'm going to look up your recommended filament. Plus I'll be reading about your printer; it looks awesome.by Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
I use these push tabs on my manual wheelchair since I can't grip the push-rim. I had originally printed tabs using Ninjaflex and they worked very well but over time some broke as the layers delaminated. I needed more and since my 3d printer was down for a while I asked a friend if he could print some. He made one print and suggested it would be much faster to print a mold and cast them from uretby Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
I have been inactive for a while but am in Edmonton. Working on getting my health sorted and want to get back to printing. Cheers all ...by Garry Bartsch - Canada, Edmonton RepRap User Group
QuoteSoadyheid I bought a LED spotlight from IKEA Soadyheid They are perfect aren't they? My friend mounted the same light on my printer like this.by Garry Bartsch - Look what I made!
Thank you. I would appreciate the file in STEP format. I'll send you a PM shortly. In my case I'm building a tank for durability, longevity, strength, and stability so speed isn't an issue. I don't need to print very fast.by Garry Bartsch - General
Thank you for the advice and pointing me to the Thingiverse files. The picture doesn't show it well but there is a plate behind the rails so the rail isn't taking the weight.by Garry Bartsch - General
There are obvious problems with this very unfinished drawing (the geared extruder needs to be offset to one side or the other of center) but I'm wondering if one of the Bondtech extruders could be used in this orientation? Would it be their QR model? It seems perfect for this case but I'm wondering if the stepper shaft would be long enough to run through the plate and still be long enough forby Garry Bartsch - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Draw the thing in CAD, measure the lengths of the straight belt segments, add to that the lengths wrapped around the pulleys. That will get you into the ball-park. Then make the motor or pulleys adjustable to adjust tension. Make sure you pick a belt that's a little longer than you need- you can always take up slack, but there isn't much you can do if the belt is too sby Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
QuoteOrigamib I have a similar system rigged up to mine. The stepper can easily be moved left and right to make it tighter, as well as the two central pulleys. This means the belt can be any length (within reason) and then just move the stepper to take up the slack. Cool setup. How's the print quality from this machine? Do you have any pictures of the entire machine?by Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
Quotedthomas6184 How did you go about picking your belt length? i'm looking to implement a similar 2 screw 1 motor setup myself to drive my bed instead of a cantilever bed setup. I haven't gotten to that point yet so it's a bridge I'll have to work on crossing eventually.by Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist If they are properly heat sunk (soldered to a large ground plane in a PC, they can deliver more current than it they are not properly heat sunk (plug-in modules). Great explanation. I have a feeling I will need to review the electronic section of your SoM Instructable. It seems maybe you are hinting there is more information about this there.by Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist I used a 5mm pitch XL belt because I had the 42 tooth pulleys for the screws and the 20 tooth pulley for the motor. In my machine, the X axis weighed about 4-5 kg. I would not have felt comfortable with 6 mm GT2 belt. Maybe 9 or 10 mm would be OK. My x axis weighs very close to 1.5 kg. so I'm guessing finding a NEMA-17 that can lift this will be easy even if I use a 2by Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think the main problem with over tightening belts is that it can cause the motor or other pulleys to tilt if they aren't mounted very solidly (one of the problems with non metallic printer frames) resulting in the belt teeth engaging the pulley's teeth at an angle. That will wear the belt quickly. My friend who supports the end of the stepper shaft broke a shaft becausby Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
QuoteJamesK QuoteMy x and y steppers have the ends supported Out of interest, how did you arrange that? The shaft on my motors isn't long enough to pass through the pulley and into a bearing. Indeed the shafts are barely long enough. For y I printed a block that holds a bearing. The stepper shaft doesn't protrude through the bearing enough shaft is in the bearing to support it. Both ends of x aby Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
QuoteJamesKYes again to 6mm GT2 belt. I think it's adequate for the job, but the relatively shallow profile does seem more prone to jumping a tooth than the chunkier belts I've seen. I don't think you will have any problems with the belt path you now have, and given that your frame looks plenty rigid enough to carry adequate belt tension. My x and y steppers have the ends supported so those beltby Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist Great pictures. I can see nicely how you did many things. I WANT layer alignment like you. That is just killer. Your machine has a heavy belt for Z. Can I expect not to have trouble using 6mm GT2? Or is a heavy belt required?by Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
QuoteJamesK Looks good. What size motor are you using for Z? This machine is in the design stage so I haven't settled on a stepper but I'm wondering if I should be considering a NEMA-23? Can NEMA-23 run off the same driver as a NEMA-17? But if I did as you with larger pulleys on the screws then the smaller stepper would be fine? I'm just learning as I go and relying heavily on experience like yoby Garry Bartsch - Mechanics
This is how I had thought to route the belt so it would pull inwards only. Plus it would give the belt contact with the stepper pulley as Mark advised.by Garry Bartsch - Mechanics