Hi everyone, I would like to know how do I use two thermocouple on my ramps , I already have one on Pin a3, Does the second one go on AUX2 Pin a5 or a9 ? my firmware is Marlin 1.1.0 rcbugfix.by Tibuck - General
I know this post is older but did you get two thermo connected on ramps?by Tibuck - Developers
Salut Pierre Yves, can you follow up on your printer? im also wanting to make a laser sla.by Tibuck - Reprappers
that is very good advice and exactly what I planed on doing to solve , I am awaiting a few sets of those brass nuts, Im not sure what Delrin nuts are but I will goooooooogle and have a look, If it a better option im all for it .BTW my drooping is on the opposite side of the motor which is odd seeing how its the lightest of the two, Perhaps that motor is starting to crap out! ??by Tibuck - General
Little update, I think I figured out why I think my prints are not as good with the lead screws as with the rods, For some reason one side of my z axis drops back down a half of a mm when rising , Example, If I raise the z 40mm, the right side holds it position but the left drops a tad, almost like it rotates back to stop on the motors closes step. Has anyone had this happen ? FYI Marlin is set tby Tibuck - General
@DaGameFace I totally agree, I did pick up the cheapest I found only because around here , good lead screws are hard to get a hold of, and the cheapest I seen went for 45$ CAD for 1X 300 length and there is no way in hell im paying those prices for them loll And before I even think of paying that kind of money for those lead screws I wanted to make sure the upgrade would be worth it, @JamesK itsby Tibuck - General
The size ends up being 20mm regardless, the issue is not size dimensions, it print quality. I have been printing with the #10 rods for well over a year, and what I mean by all of this is to get the same detail I was getting at 0.1 I have to now set my slicer at 0.08 and according to Prusa calculator you would be right 0.1 would be the correct layer height settings but it looks like S@@Tby Tibuck - General
lol yes , Marlin is indeed set up for the lead screws the steps are set at 400.00, here is the link to them . they do work and I don't have anymore Z wobbles with them but I fear the resolution is not great because of the 8mm Pitch , that why I am wondering if I switch my 1.8 nema to 0.9 if that would help.by Tibuck - General
I would like your option about banggood 8mm 8 pitch lead screws. Up in till now I have been using #10 threaded rods with reasonable results( I have been happy with them beside the PITA Z wobble artifacts) however in my quest to better prints, I have bought 8 mm 8 pitch lead screws , Cheap Cheap ones. Now im finding to get the same 0.1 layer height I have to set my slicer at 0.08 and even then iby Tibuck - General
Are you saying your i3 Prints and does cd rom laser engraver/cutter on same printer?? If so Can you help me long with doing that with my prusa i3 please? Pat,.by Tibuck - Laser Cutter Working Group
I agree not enough power getting to the steppers , use the potentiometer to increases but don't over do it ! it takes a good ear to make sure it hums just right! if it seems noisy then reduce it slightly.by Tibuck - Printing
I have been using and e3d v6 since day one , 8mm retraction seems like a lot ! at most 4.5 or even 3.5 should do the trick! at what speed did you set the retraction to ?? That plays a lot! and I also think you might be printing to hot. Don't forget every roll is deferent and e steps calibration should be done for each roll or simpler still reducing the flow rate in your slicer.by Tibuck - Printing
it can also be as simple as not enough power going to the steppers once belts are all in place, Did you try increasing it with the little potentiometer?by Tibuck - Printing
I use a full graphic smart controller and im pretty sure it not the issue here, how-ever that little light you are talking about should be green, perhaps you should go back to making sure the power supply is properly tuned to the 12v output using the tinny adjustment nob on it , and then retighten all the connections, and try to re flash marlin making sure u clear the board first by using the eby Tibuck - Printing
I recently had a Y axis movement issue also after many many months of it working! I replaced a cheap stepper driver for the y and fixed everything , u might have a blown one yourself?by Tibuck - General
perhaps u can try increasing the percentage of infill and increases the top layer thickness.by Tibuck - General
I ve been having same issue with a roll of blue pla, only thing I was able to do it get it two work right was to use a 0.14 layer height and reduce the flow rate in cura to 98% . Try it hope it helps.by Tibuck - General
3dLac ! works like magic, its like hairspray but only better! it works with pla. ABS wood filaments very very well for pla I use a bed temp of 45 once the glass cools the parts simply pops off.by Tibuck - General
Did you use nema17 40 or 42mm motors ? Thanksby Tibuck - Tantillus
What is the smallest stepper motors we can use for this build?by Tibuck - Tantillus
I also think I could be z wobble. what size threaded rods do you have on your z axis? when I first make my Prusa I put 5/16 rods it give me that effect changed them for 3/16 and everything been better ever since.by Tibuck - Printing
I been also printing a lot with abs and printed 6 of those types of vases, I use to do the crappy abs juice thing now I use that over priced hair spray called 3DLAC its expensive 20 dollars a can but it does along way and since then I have Zero warping and everything sticks really well and once the bed temp lowers to 40 c everything simply lets go with out a fight . and as for those vases I founby Tibuck - Printing
Ok its been about a week with testing with the "3DLAC" and "Alberto European extra hold" and I must say they both do one heck of a great job! im so impress that I will never go back to the messy abs juice thing! test with 3 different rolls of abs ( one full roll) and not a single warping and no abs juice mess! thanks for all your inputs and hope it helps someone some where .by Tibuck - Printing
I just got a can of 3dlac which smells a lot like hairspray and with a coat of that on the glass with no tape and bed temp at 106C so far everything seems to hold well now and - the messby Tibuck - Printing
I did try that, used 400 grit and 500 and fine steel wool, the sandpaper works well but leaves a almost white ish matt finish and steel wool work ok but takes a lot of rubbing. what sandpaper have you tried ?by Tibuck - Printing
I am printing a lot with abs lately and I Really like the way the prints come out ! I found that a nice think slurry of abs juice ( thick like maple syrup) applied to cold glass on heat bed then bring the heat up to 100c works perfectly with out warping, But the issue is that it leaves a very thin layer of the juice on the parts. So my question is , has anyone found a trick to clean that off easby Tibuck - Printing
Personally my Prusa i3 build experience was a fantastic one! I found it to be relatively inexpensive and really enjoyable! I basically started off with electronics and basic hardware ( straps pulleys bearings...) a bit of hard wood plywood some Lexan and the aluminum frame. Jerry rigged it all together to get a half decent print. once that was in the bag which didn t take long I printed out alby Tibuck - Printing
Oh and one more thing worth talking about. cheaper Filament setting change a lot from roll to roll, I make sure I do the 50mm and 100mm extrusion test every time I put on a new roll.by Tibuck - Printing
Did you take care of changing the filament diameter setting and nozzle settings?( Very important I did this booboo not to long ago ) also I think cure ver14.09 does a better job over ver14.12. But really it may also simply be what srek & tmorris are talking about . I use a Bowden tube cut the filament flush to then and ask printer face to extrude 50mm then using a rule , if I hit my mark!by Tibuck - Printing
Let use know perhaps slicr3 is more for experts and the fine tuning is less forgiving. I know it has more options but for myself at this point, perhaps to many. cure is rather simple to fine tune.by Tibuck - Printing