What about the distance between the PCB board and the M8 threaded rod? Some boards may get a short circuit. You should cover the PCB board at least with Kapton tape. Edit: And how to use the stock connector? Maybe you need a cut-out at your x-carriage.by Treito - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Normally I use window cleaner or aceton-free brake cleaner to clean the surface. I always used window-cleaner to clean the surface. Sometimes first the mentioned brake cleaner and after that window-cleaner again. I only said that I have no pure Acetone at home but only mixtures. Of course I have window cleaner.by Treito - General
Quote Use a pure window cleaner like Windex... Since when this is not enough?by Treito - General
It is universal thinner. 130°C and measured at the surface with 118°C. 245°C first layer and it does not stick enough but a little bit.by Treito - General
I only have universal cleaner at home. I guess it is pure Aceton, but I am not sure.by Treito - General
The surface was not often used and I said I did not use Aceton for cleaning. Normally I use window cleaner or aceton-free brake cleaner to clean the surface. Now I used brake-cleaner including aceton. 245°C is the limit for the PTFE-liner so to not destroy it I reduced the temperature to 240°C. Yesterday I had trouble with my Extruder for what reason ever, but it was filament related. I try to heby Treito - General
I did not clean it with Acetone yet and at least BuildTak fails, too. So my MK2 is broken and for my MK1 in this setup PrintBite is new. I printed a little bit PLA onto PrintBite before, but the hot-end was broken. Due to the different temperature readings I already raised up the bed temperature to 125°C (the thermistor is placed inside the heat spreader). I am unsure to get rid off the heat sprby Treito - General
Meanwhile I also have serious trouble with PrintBite. I managed to fix my Ormerod 1, but I am not getting ABS to stick at PrintBite. My Ormerod 2 is broken for the moment, but there it was sticking (and warping). There are only slightly differences between the printers: MK2A heated bed with aluminium heat spreader instead of MK3 aluminium heated bed; same hot-end, but different fans. I tried to hby Treito - General
Currently I am trying 70mm/s with my Ormerod 1 to print some replacement parts for my MK2. Maybe the spring loaded Extruder helps. My current is set only to 0.8A and it seems that I have no skips. Printing temperature is 200°C. This is the lowest setting for my PLA even if I slow down the speed. Normally I only printed between 30mm/s and 50mm/s. I hope my Ormerod 2 will be better. I will test GT2by Treito - Ormerod
Dave, what Extruder do you use? Did you try to raise the printing temperature or the Extruder motor current?by Treito - Ormerod
It's too high you shouldn't exceed 50mm/s.by Treito - Ormerod
I know that was the way how I increased the minimum speed.by Treito - Ormerod
Okay one stupid question about this. There is no design for my printer version to connect a second fan to the nozzle, but there's a design for putting a fan to the x-arm for indirect cooling. Is this enough or should I design my own fan holder?by Treito - General
I recently changed my Hot-End and I was able to do a print with 80mm/s. However there were traces of the speed. I am unsure if I can reduce them by changing to GT2-belts. That's my last option for improving print speed. An I3 shall not have any trouble at 100mm/s.by Treito - Ormerod
That would sound much better, but like I said for the moment I have to arrange myself with the new situation.by Treito - Ormerod
Okay thanks. I did not test it yet as I had serious trouble to update the FW from 1.09 to 1.11. First I was using Windows 10, but the device was not recognized (after deleting the flash). Starting Linux I found out that there was trouble with the cable, but with Linux the recent version of bossa and bossac was not working for what reason ever. Luckily the bossac from Arduino 1.5.6 was working finby Treito - Ormerod
Personally for me the price is too high especially at the moment. Probably I need to find a new job. Sh.. happens. Also I was looking somewhat in the region of the the Aluminium bed support I got from you for my MK1. Slightly other design and that's it.by Treito - Ormerod
I use Windows 10 as well as Linux. May I am affected, too? It seems that there is no problem with Linux, but to be honest I normally don't use the USB-connection.by Treito - Ormerod
Okay I see, thanks. I was wondering if this slow speed is really needed. I raised the minimum speed to 10mm/s at Simplify3D for this print and it worked. However I have no original nozzle anymore because it is dead so probably nobody could tell me how long a layer has to be cooled down for my printer setups. As I updated the firmware (machine 1) I think I had to reprint the orthogonal axis as theby Treito - Ormerod
Hello, Simplify3D would like to reduce the printing speed to 6.7mm/s for the orthogonal axis compensation parts (z-axis), because for cooling the parts down. The minimum printing speed is by default 600mm/min or 10mm/s. So why this value was choosed? Can I reduce it by half or will I get any issues? Best regards, Svenby Treito - Ormerod
Hello Dave, I think 5mm would also be okay for the bed. For the other two parts I am a little bit unsure. You would have to be aware that the holes could move by 0.5mm. The outer diamater of a LM12UU is 21mm, that's right. I only demanded for a roughly price so that I can see and compare.by Treito - Ormerod
No Problem, I downloaded them to be able to draw my part.by Treito - Ormerod
But it's the best idea to reprint this tower.by Treito - Ormerod
Many thanks for the answer. For the moment it is only theoretically, but it fits to the thread, so no stress. I printed a Y-carriage with a complete different design and a bed support consisting of three parts. However the first print was done with PLA because ABS warped. I didn't think about the screws that they may transfer heat as well so the bed support melted. I reprinted now the bed supportby Treito - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Yep, my stuff gets hands-on personal treatment on the CNC Flat 2D or 2.5D d shapes are no issue at all I think. Just need to see DXF etc so I can give options and a yay or nay to any job. Any time, just let me know. One stupid question according to this theme, take a look here: What would be the costs for the bed support and optional for the y-carriage? Would it make a differeby Treito - Ormerod
How did you calculate the optimal temperature? Normally this is done by a test print.by Treito - Ormerod
Depending on the IR-LED the beam is not completely in vertikal direction. There are also some beams sideways. This is called viewing angle and it can vary. For IR-LEDs is mostly something between 9° and 35°, so you were lucky that the reflected light was strong enough to trigger the sensor.by Treito - Ormerod
Okay thanks Dave. That was only a theoretical question but I think this is interesting for many others. The German producers do the process mostly automatically. So they demand a DXF-File which can be processed automatically. These procedure only allows a two-dimensional drawing. So you have to upload the DXF-file and select the material and thickness and you will get an automatically offer. Stepby Treito - Ormerod
The IR-beam can only register obstacles above the sensor and not anything sideways.by Treito - Ormerod
It's not mine, but it is a good improvement. Using the original one I often had to go to the printer to refit the Z-axis if there was a small problem.by Treito - Ormerod