QuoteUncleSas Just noticing your magnets... Are the cavities for the balls spherical or conical? I've been able to find magnets with a conical profile to the cavity, but haven't been able to find any with a spherical cavity, which I speculate would yield stronger magnetic attraction between the balls and magnets. If yours are spherical, can you give a pointer to your source? Just conical counteby meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce 4) Still thinking about meq123's design to raise the hotend. I do think this would lessen some problems. OK, I'm now up to proof of concept stage The vertical supports are epoxied into the base and then 3mm rods epoxied into the rod tops to allow the top plate to be removable. The bottom of the E3v6 heater block is level with the bottom of the effector plate, leaving just the noby meq123 - Delta Machines
FolgerTech has their (injection molded) kit one available seperately, you'll need to a a NEMA 17 motor as well, though :by meq123 - Delta Machines
Mine did exactly as yours. As per others here I took the probe off and did manual calibration (using the Escher calculator webpage). Worked far better for me. Oh, I also went to Repetier firmware, so I could update the params in EEPROM rather than have to compile and load the whole firmware file every time - as with the stock Marlin firmware.by meq123 - Delta Machines
QuoteUncleSas So, next up... Drilling granite... Because the aluminum heater/build plate isn't exactly flat (it's out as much as .4mm), but the granite tile I cut up for a build plate is flat to within .051mm and it requires absolutely no surface prep beyond a wipe with alcohol for PETG and PLA... Granite, interesting! How thick is the plate and how well do you think that'll work for transferrinby meq123 - Delta Machines
Temp sensor will only cause the heater to be switched on or off (via RAMPs), so that has no extraneous effect on the PSU. You said you were reading ~2amps current which is fair (or low) for a 30-40W 12V element. Still sounds like the PSU to me.by meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce @av8r1: What parts do you need specifically? I only ask, because I personally got rid of 90% of the plexiglas parts. They break SO easiliy and there is a better solution for nearly any Folgertech plexiglas part. Yeah, I agree there. I've removed ALL my acrylic bits. Now using: standoff PSU mounts from Thingverse (thanks, docpayce!); birch-ply 2560/RAMPs support that wedges into tby meq123 - Delta Machines
Either that PSU is shot, or woefully underrated for your print needsby meq123 - Delta Machines
Did it used to work? 'Cos it may be that your Arduino's 5V regulator has blown. This happened to me (I think I must've accidentally shorted pins while setting the stepper driver voltages) and couldn't understand why the thing only worked when the USB was plugged in. Forum searches turned up the link hercek posted above, but my RAMPS was fine. I eventually found out about the AMS1117 regulatorby meq123 - Delta Machines
I saw a recent post on the ali-express ones being like this. The poster R&R'd the balls cutting the arms to the same length as you suggested. Ahh found it. Here:by meq123 - Delta Machines
Sounds like your DELTA_RADIUS value is wrong. You can either change it directly or play with the values that add up to it (by default): (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET) Increasing Delta Radius makes the center dip down more than the edges (become concave, looking from the top), or reducing it makes the edges dip more. Sounds like yours is too big and needsby meq123 - Delta Machines
Frankly, I would (and did) just build it as it comes. Then you can learn 3D printing and firmware and upgrade over time. From your list of immediate upgrades, you are throwing half the kit away! As for the v6 hotend, you can just mount it with the effector parts that come with the kit. I have done that with mine.by meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce @meq123: Nice! I like it! Imho, you should thicken the walls holding the carbon rods. Using carbon rods is a really nice idea btw. Though, you could also print the upper part completely "with the carbon rods" if you know what I mean. i.e. not use carbon rods but plastic. Comparable to this design: I am really intrigued by the two-part design. Good idea! Makes adjustements much easby meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotespiffcow Quotemeq123 [...] I noticed a very novel idea in the way the Micromake effector is designed, where the effector plate is made as a kind of "A" shape with the top of the hot end raised much higher than the pivot points of the arms. That would seem to me that it would reduce the effects (amplitude) of tilt and backlash considerably on the movement of the nozzle tip. I would thinkby meq123 - Delta Machines
QuoteUncleSas Has anyone replaced the wheels on the carriages? Mine wobble a lot (~1mm deflection in the carriage) because the bearings are sloppy, and I think that's where most of the ringing I'm getting is coming from. Again, I don't have any noticeable wobble in mine. Are you sure that the center screws are tight on the wheels and that the carriage clamps are also well tightened? My carriaby meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotethosmos I think its biggest downsides are: 1. incorrect default configuration settings in their firmware - especially INVERT_X_DIR, INVERT_Y_DIR, INVERT_Z_DIR set to true which caused my printhead to slam and scrape across the printbed on first powerup as it tried to home for the first time. 2. incorrect details in the assembly manual - thermistors needed to plug into different spots on RAby meq123 - Delta Machines
You sure there's not a "custom" machine setting where you can check "Bed center is 0,0,0"?by meq123 - Delta Machines
[email protected] QuoteXYrZbest The stock nozzle that came with my kit has been clogging on every print. I am thinking I should replace it with one of these thoughts? Same problem here. I am looking into getting a hot end with a sleeve to see if it will work any better (at all I should say). I have verified my temperature, checked my extruder feed and have yet to be able to print.by meq123 - Delta Machines
I was just looking at the "Has any one built the Micromake printer?" thread (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,545625) and decided to look at it on the Aliexpress selling page. I noticed a very novel idea in the way the Micromake effector is designed, where the effector plate is made as a kind of "A" shape with the top of the hot end raised much higher than the pivot points of the arms. Tby meq123 - Delta Machines
[email protected] I have been stuck on setting up the inductive sensor. I have blue to power supply -, brown to power supply +, on the black signal wire I have a 15k ohm resistor inline from black signal wire from the sensor sensor with a 10k ohm resistor T in after the 15k on it's way back to my board. When I measure the signal wire I have 12 volts with the light on the sensor off aby meq123 - Delta Machines
I have a FolgerTech Kossell revB and am going to try docpayce's magnetic rod conversion (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1540203) Looking to source parts for this, I had the bright idea of using carbon-fiber arrow shafts as a source for the carbon rods. Searching eBay I found quite a few at varying diameters. I chose a set of three 30" arrows with 7mm outer dia (and 5mm inner) for under $10 sby meq123 - Delta Machines
Update for @Careless... I've been having intermittent Over/Under temp errors, but found they would go away for a while by wiggling the wires at the hot end. I had thought it was just a bad joint where the extension wires were soldered to the thermistor wires, but it finally stopped working altogether and after a more detailed investigation, I found the problem was at the thermistor bead itself.by meq123 - Delta Machines
Well, I have finally finished my FolgerTech kit and printed a couple of test items (yay). I had it built in about a week and a half of my somewhat rare spare time (had visitors from out of town all last week) and finally did some basic calibration and prints on Saturday. Still some ways to go on full calibration though, I printed a (mostly flat) Scorpion kit (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34by meq123 - Delta Machines
QuoteSuitable Can't see an aluminium effector plate in that manual? Are you talking about the aluminium extruder mount on the 5.3kgcm stepper? Gets bolted to the acrylic plate amd at the top of the frame? Can you post a pic please? Also, that's he only revB manual I have found, where is this newer version you talk of or older version (not the one on page 1 here)? The one you linked is the one Iby meq123 - Delta Machines
QuoteSuitable Nice work I'm guessing that's because the 2020 lengths are not all the same length (unless you ground or cut them back even to eachother, I had to shave ~0.5mm-1mm off most the 300mm lengths to get them to 300mm exactly, I never checked the long ones though as you can leave them poking out the top a bit to square them up properly) Yeah, I had a couple of the 300's that were too lby meq123 - Delta Machines
Got mine 3/4 of the way done too now - all the mechanical parts done, apart from the electronics mounting & wiring. Slightly disappointed in a way that the kit I got still came with a printed effector plate, rather than the fancy aluminum one they show in the instructions. Also the rods were DIY and not pre-made as they had stated. On the other hand, that let me max out the lengths of thby meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce And just in general, I had the chance to compare generic (Traxxas end) rods to magnet rods, as I had to reprint some broken part. Check it out: Wow! That's a huge difference. What magnet rod setup/design was that?by meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce Wow, did they finally update their manual? It was (SO) about time. I just checked it out and it really looks good now. They did a much better job. They EVEN included a proper electronics guide this time around. *Applause* For the rod length: I am using 275 mm rod length right now to maximize for x/y build surface (I can use the full 210 mm diameter without problems). And I do notby meq123 - Delta Machines
Quotepaul_delta My rods are still 230mm. The max. print diameter is only 158mm, that's why they changed recommended length to 240mm - to use the table more effectively. Thanks to all for all the responses. I appreciate the help. I just found (what I assume is) a later manual to download. That has the 240mm length specified and implies they have now started to ship pre-made rods - though theby meq123 - Delta Machines
QuoteSuitable QuoteLegrand In order for the scaling to be correct, the center to center distance of the arms should be 240mm. As you increase the length of the arms your prints will come out small and you will have to scale up as you decrease the length of the arms, the prints will come out large and you will have to scale down. You can make the arms as long as you want, it just screws up the priby meq123 - Delta Machines