I went with a Kossel Clear from Blue Eagle, and while there are some issues with the printer, none of them were insurmountable, and I'd probably do it again. First, the positives: * Google group * Build videos * acrylic pieces make building a square frame easier * screw-operated belt-tensioners Negatives: * Many people had problems with the stock Arduino board + LCD (myself included)by grat - Delta Machines
As someone else pointed out, many Delta printers use smooth bearings and GT2 belts across them... and it doesn't appear to affect the output. I don't think the "teeth" on the belt are sufficient to displace the belt and therefore the print.by grat - CoreXY Machines
Short version: they control microstepping, and you want that.by grat - General
The Onyx 310mm bed (from seemecnc) might be an option as well. I put one on my Kossel Clear, and it works well.by grat - Delta Machines
I'd suggest posting a picture of the bottom of your print, but it sounds like poor adhesion. Better adhesion equals less warping (because it can't pull loose). Personally, the best results I've gotten have been from: * proper calibration * clean with isopropyl alcohol * lightly coat with "disappearing purple" glue-stick * heat bed slightly (45-55C for PLA. Other materials require highby grat - Printing
Three things: 1) Buy a kit. You'll know more about your printer by the time you're done. This makes modding much easier, if you know how everything is put together. 2) Whatever printer you go with, make sure there's a good community to help you out. 3) Regardless of what you buy, you'll need to calibrate it on occasion. For Deltas, calibration is more involved, but not terribly difficult.by grat - General
Quote#define MAX_FEEDRATE_X 200 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Y 200 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Z 2 .... 2? Seems a bit... small.by grat - Delta Machines
This guy seems to have made it work... don't know about the lifetime, though:by grat - General
Right-Click the object, select "Split Object into Parts".by grat - General
Sometimes I wonder if people actually understand the temperatures involved. We casually throw around things like "190 degrees C" or "100 degrees C", but I'm not sure people truly grasp how hot that actually is. 100C is boiling, and is excessive for sanitizing purposes-- Granted, more is frequently better, and if I were sterilizing a surgical implement, I'd want as much heat as possible. Someby grat - General
I've narrowed my v6 issues down to specific filaments-- two of my PLA filaments have a "rough" texture ("Fern Green" from filamentoutlet and a translucent blue from g-bargain (no, really!)), and I have many, many issues with them. The rest of my filaments, PLA, ABS, 618, and T-Glase, all have a reasonably smooth texture, and I have no problems with them. Otherwise, the E3D has been pretty reliaby grat - General
Cura seems to produce less stringing for me. Slic3r has better features such as overhang detection. Slic3r is a bit slower (although allocating more threads helps, if you've got the memory).by grat - Delta Machines
Would it be possible to use the PID values to estimate how long it should take the hotend to reach operating temperature? I'm thinking one safety measure would be to monitor the increase in temperature vs. the power supplied to the heating element, and if it's not heating up as expected, assume the thermistor isn't reading correctly, and throw an error message. That could limit the problems cauby grat - Safety & Best Practices
You could always check the local hardware store for "MEK Substitute" (NOT MEK-- MEK is kind of nasty), aka "Ethyl Acetate". People have been having good luck smoothing / melting PLA with it, and it shouldn't harm the nozzle.by grat - Printing
Have you calibrated the stepper drivers yet?by grat - Reprappers
I don't know how it would be applied to the Mini Kossel / Cherry Pi design (well, I do-- redesign the top bracket from scratch), but the belt tension mechanism on the Kossel Clear is nice-- the idler pulley is suspended from the top bracket by two bolts. Tighten / loosen the two bolts (equally) to set the tension on the belt exactly where you want it. Also makes the belt easier to remove from tby grat - Delta Machines
Use the first calculator on the page. 36T with "normal" motors and belts gives 44.44 steps/mm, which is an unusual number (to my mind), so I'd double check the belts and motors to make sure of their specs. Typically for 200 steps/mm motors @ 1/16th microstep and a 2mm pitch GT2 belt, it's going to be 80 steps/mm for a 20T pulley, and 100 steps/mm for a 16T pulley.by grat - Delta Machines
Quoteekaggrat @grat I am ready using 1/8 microstepping... Ah well, was worth a suggestion. I suspect part of your problem is that there's a lot of jumping about on this model, so jerk and acceleration will play more of a part than they do in the other items you've printed. My first effort to print it ended in a lot of filament going in the wrong directions.by grat - Delta Machines
I cut my extruder stepper to 1/8th microstepping (which of course halves the steps/mm), but it definitely improved the torque.by grat - Delta Machines
If you have a laser at a specific angle and location, and you adjust Z until it hits a sensor, at a known location and angle, then you should be able to calculate your z-height. I've been thinking about the idea of a laser for delta calibration-- the first half of the idea was to fire a laser through the middle of the bed, and when the filament tube lights up, the hotend should now be centered,by grat - General
Blue tape wiped down with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol with no heat gives a ridiculously reliable "stick" for me. In fact, it's probably too much stick-- the tape usually comes up with the print. But at least it's cheap and easy to replace.by grat - Delta Machines
Opening the EEPROM settings window (Alt-E) a second time and attempting to change values crashes RepetierHost 0.95F. Running under Linux, (Mint 17), up-to-date as of earlier this week. Crash message: System.ObjectDisposedException: The object was used after being disposed. at System.Windows.Forms.Control.CreateHandle () [0x00000] in :0 at System.Windows.Forms.TextBoxBase.CreateHandle () [by grat - Repetier