It looks very nice. But do you have access to a workshop that can fabricate the metal parts? Otherwise you will probably be better off with Filipe's design. As he says, his is much like it, just with much more printed parts. He has a very long thread here in the forum. If you are comfortable working with wood then you may also consider the smartcore printer. It would be easier to provide inpuby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
QuoteEdvardas QuoteLarsK First - Holding torque is not the problem - The problem is moving the bed up without skipping steps (pre-print). If you have a "normal" setup then you have a Z-max probe. So the printer sends the bed to this and then move up your specified Z-height. If it skips steps when moving up then it will stop in the wrong height and your print will not touch the bed... Next, wheby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
QuoteEdvardas QuoteLarsK ... I have read that at full steps motor has a higher holding torque (which is important in this instance). If a motor works on lets say 16 microstepps does it still have a full step every 16 micro steps where it has that higher holding torque? Or does it work on microsteps only? I can already see that green A4988 seems weaker than black version I have used before. Firby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
QuoteEdvardas So I was researching on the motor stepping/microstepping and it seems that I could base my design on this one If I use GT2 20T pulley and a 200 steps per revolution stepper. I would come up with a Z axis resolution of 0.2mm per one full step which is what I use most of the time (anyone care to check if my step/resolution math is right?). Later I could get a 400 steps per revolutionby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
As a rule of thumb, if you don't want to spend time iterating the design and fine-tunning, you will have more luck building simple and strong structures, then complicated advanced structures. There are absolutely no problems in a cantilevered design (!) - Not many years ago most mills (for metal working) was with a cantilevered bed. ( I previously posted this sketch in another thread, may be gby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
What should it have looked like???by LarsK - Delta Machines
I supported this. I like that you opted for fixed funding and not the "flexible" type. If you get funded, it will be open source and it will be no different then having supported any other open source project, if you do not get funded then no harm done. I believe if people payed just 1% of what they pay for materials and parts to software then we would be an entirely different place today.by LarsK - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
I had and in parts still have the same problem. There are really not a lot of good material about it. Some blogs/posts but the vast majority are discontinued or dosen't provide enough information. What I have done, and what I think you should also consider doing, is start out with something less powerful. A 40W laser as a first build is a lot if you do not buy it as a finished and working laserby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Right... So the final suggestion was , same name as the account that asked... I was actually expecting to see a ton of similar forum posts around the internet when googling but nothing came up? Is it just google algorithm that is really good at picking this stuff out or what happens?by LarsK - Controllers
I am very impressed by your design. It could be really nice to see / hear some videos of it printing and some high-res pictures of prints and some comments about obtained speed. The setup in general does not seem so rigid to me (but that is always hard to judge from photos). I am interested in how perfect your walls becomes on complicated objects with sharp angles and printed in high speed. Doby LarsK - Delta Machines
QuoteJ-Max We decided to use solenoIids. The spring is directly on the solenoid. It's an on/off contact, it's very quick. Through, solenoïds are a bit heavyer compares to 9g servos, but they're much stronger too. I dunno if that system could be usefull for you. ++JM Hey, Solenoids are nice for linear motion. But there are some limitations; High force solenoids should only be held constantby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Yes, I could use a servo like that. For now my design is simpler. Current status looks like this, electronic control not yet implemented and obviously not yet installed in a printer: As can be seen this is a first revision with a couple of tolerances here and there not quite good enough and here and there I had to use my Dremel. The problem is that it can also not be lose. The servo with theby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Hey Rcengr, Your post is very interesting. It is rare that somebody goes into such depth to investigate problems. I would like to know more about how your parts looked throughout the process. It will help me in the future if I come across something like it. Any chance you can take some pictures of your older parts? Especially I am interested how it looked before you fixed the filament issue.by LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Hey, that is really interesting. Gotta say his looks a lot simpler then what I am moving towards now. I did eventually print a design where I would just turn and secure the position using one servo - Like what I understand Forange is doing. The good thing for my design was that the thrust bearings keeps it very firmly from moving in all unwanted directions. The rotation, however, should be hby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Quotepulse69 One more thing. If I buy a Duet board, can i still use the Reprap graphic display? No. It will not. 5V on Arduino Mega and 3.3V on Duet. As for your problem - In my opinion the obvious points are exhausted. I think your best bet now is to try Repetier firmware. This will rule out a couple of issues. It will take you a couple of hours to configure and get it up running but it ruleby LarsK - Delta Machines
0.9V (~0.9A) is fine if you have a small fan blowing on the RAMPS.by LarsK - Delta Machines
If there is a local makerspace you could swing by and see if anyone can print you parts. If so, then you can go for the cherrypi iii. It is a 3rd revision simple design with a good handfull of supporters here on the forum. See:by LarsK - Delta Machines
Agree with Olaf and David. Disconnect display to confirm (disconnect in firmware). If that is the problem, then consider changing to Repetier firmware, that firmware can manage the big displays. Longterm consider 32 bit as that is where things are heading.by LarsK - Delta Machines
That does not look like missing steps. It looks like mechanical binding or STL problems. Have you tested that you can manually, with you little finger, move all carriages up and down without stressing your finger? (with power OFF obviously) Any particular spot where there is a sudden change of friction? Issue the following commands to your printer: G28 G1 X55 Y0 Z10 G1 X-55 F1500 G1 X0 Y55by LarsK - Delta Machines
Hey, First of all, I really like that dual extruder ( ) - Really simple idea, yet very powerfull. Adressing DC42 comment - Regarding if 2 extruders is actually really a problem or not - Well, I am honestly concerned that I am trying to solve a problem, that is not a problem. It is always so that those who have problems complain and the rest don't come and tell how theirs are working great. Iby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Thanks VDX! Expensive stuff, 18€ for the HCL and 6.5€ for the H2O2, both 1L and both with delivery to the door. Here in Brazil I can only buy 2L HCL per month and the seller registers my identity number. If I understand correctly he even registers me with the police. Also there was some extra costs for "safe delivery"... On the other hand, if I still was living in Europe the various flavorsby LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
Hey J-Max. I will do like you suggest. I am making it for 3 hotends. Still in the designing and layout phase. Thinking about how to do the electronics. Saw a post by DC42 suggesting to put a local board on the carriage to reduce all the wiring, though that leaves some open electronics questions ( ). I think I am ready with a prototype tomorrow or day after. Biggest problem is that the hotendsby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Hello, I am in the process of making my self a triple hotend setup. The hotend will be selected with a servo that then moves it like a pendulum (project thread: ). I am confident in controlling this by some custom G-code. But, instead of having all this wiring ( 3 x thermistor, 3x heater cartridge, 1x servo, 1 (or 2) x fan ) I am thinking about putting an Arduino nano board on the carriagby LarsK - Repetier
Hello, How strong does chemicals for etching need to be? It seems I can get the following: Hydrochloric acid 37% or 8%?? (8% just being a cleaning agent) And: Hydrogen peroxide - 50% or 35%?by LarsK - Laser Cutter Working Group
If you can really run 2A stable on the DRV8255 driver, then that might just be the solution. Twice the stable A4988 current. I sure ordered 5 of them last night to try just that out. Then you just need one of the bigger Nema 17. Like the 17HS8403 (2.3A). Downside is that you will not be (easily) able to upgrade to Duet later. But some of the Arduino Due (32 bit) boards with modified Ramps sby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Instead of actually understanding your problems with alignment you now have some numbers which, assuming they are anything close to what you posted two posts backs, are completely off. Your printer firmware have saved the day by finding a compromise that allows you to print. But double digits endstop corrections and full digit tower adjustments is wrong. I hope for you that you can get some prby LarsK - Delta Machines
Hmm, honestly had not payed attention that the DRV8825 can deliver so much current. Thought the only real advantage was the 32 microstep instead of the 16. Still, gearing might not be a bad idea as it is also my experience that it helps you from not having bed crashes on power off / resets. I was looking at this project: and came to think of yours. If you see the bed suspension. They useby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
I also do not use a ball screw. I use belts. As seen below I have have a 2:1 system. When I says 2:1 I mean that the system is geared. So 2 mm turn on the motor gives 1 mm change in bed height. My experience is that when I just put on the z-axis 1:1 it did often have problems raising and lowering the bed - And that was just my temporary 200x200 bed with 6 mm glass plate. There are many peopleby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Hi, Two things: First for the Z axis I think you can either stick to the more "traditional" bed design. Again, your printer is not super big. Or I think you should go all the way with the spectra wire. Imagine if you put a stepper on that spectra wire and then you can just remove the ball screw completely. Never tried anything like it but would be really interesting. Ball screws are really whaby LarsK - CoreXY Machines
Fine first draft. I think the way you use the 2040 now does not give you much stiffness. The problem is how the vertical profiles are secured to the top and buttom structure. Using 2040 in the lower rectangel will give you two more points to secure the vertcal profiles. Basically that is the 3 base designs (and obviously combinations of these). Since you are already going for the 2040 onby LarsK - CoreXY Machines