Quoteaimatt Maybe a new problem.... my nozzle might be gunked up or something, the filament comes out really slow. I'll try a higher temp I guess. For pla i normally do 190C and abs i do 230C. But if your printing with pla and it seems like its stuck then turn it up to 230c and extrude about 100mm and see if it starts to flow out good. Also do you have your fan blowing on the heat shink? and isby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quotefatalelieberi Hi Reprappers, I've just recently upgraded my Aurora Z605 3D printer. The default Melzi board is replaced by RAMPS 1.4. Now, I'm stuck in setting the firmware. I'm using Repetier firmware and now I can't decide what temperature table should be used for the extruder and heat bed thermistors. The currently applied setting, 100k Epcos B57560G0107F000, has higher reading, about 8Cby xile6 - Reprappers
Quoteaimatt Wow. You were right about the end stops. Turns out there was a bad solder job on the wires to the switch. I was broken off. Since it's under heatshrink, it would work in the home position normally. However, when it went lower it would disconnect. With your firmware, it's working perfectly. Thanks so much!!! Thats great. Im glad its working for you. Where you able to get a print workiby xile6 - Delta Machines
here is my firmware. your welcome to try it out and see if it works for you. The most you should have to change is the motors (could be flip from yours) and the height depending on your endstops. my firmware Mines is setup to with with a 90 radius. so it does 180 dia But everything works great. This is from there main site. I check and i got it mix up the thingivers is an older firmware alsoby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt Yeah it is center, about 5mm up. I moved my top endstops down, thinking there might be some macro set, limiting the amount of travel or something. That improved, resulting in getting close to the bed. However, when it moved to the side, it scraped into the bed in the -X direction, in the +X direction, it lifted off the bed. I played manually with Pronterface and it seems like either tby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt Yeah, that is what it is showing.... When you press up on the nozzle and type in m119 does the Z min say triggered? The hot end should move down to about 20mm from the bed. Then it will move to the front right and then drop down till it touchs the bed. When you do the g code. G1 X0 Y0 Z5 F2000 Does the nozzle move down center to 5mm off. The bed? If its way more then 5mm then youby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt When it does the autolevel, it does it like 4-5 inches over the bed. Shouldn't it do it near bed level so it can detect slopes? Check your endstop. It could be backwards in the firmware causing it to read trigger before it makes it to the bed. When you do the m119 All should say trigged but z min should day open. This is when u homeby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteGrAndAG Quotexile6 Max and min endstops. ... If you have the liner rails. You put the other endstop mounts on the bottom. Kinda stops the part from sliding compeltey off the rail if something was to break. But as said there not really needed. I also got 6 endstops. But, actually, there are not enough pins to connect all of them. Because "Z-min" pins are already occupied by autolevel probe.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Max and min endstops. The only ones that are really needed are the max which should be the top of each axis. If you have the liner rails. You put the other endstop mounts on the bottom. Kinda stops the part from sliding compeltey off the rail if something was to break. But as said there not really needed. And yes abs isnt for starters. Pla is so easy to print. It just needs a cooling fan. Iveby xile6 - Delta Machines
I might be late to the party but your hot end fan is backwards. It should blow air onto the heatsink. Also a shroud helps. look up e3d fan shrouds e3d online Also for pla the temp should be between 180 and 210. I never had to go higher then 190 or 195. Clear colors normally need less temps so i run them at 190c. Also if you dont have a pla cooling fan (fan aim at the nozzle tip) your part wiby xile6 - Reprappers
Quotepdev Hello dkujovic, thank you for posting your issue and the fix. I'm having some trouble with this kit, apart from damaged items (a defective pulley), missing pieces (like 10 M5 screws), wrong stepper wiring and so on.. now I'm a bit stuck on a problem with the auto leveling. it seems like the auto leveling goes fine (it pinpoints the 9 spots) but then it makes a strange movement which scby xile6 - Reprappers
Quoteslanwar I changed the voltage from .365v to .350 still the same, the extruder behavior looks ok and I don't see any skipping. This is my 2nd printer I built and the first one I'm using a direct drive extruder which is way better than Wade's but on this particulary printer I wanted to use the Wade's extruder because looks cool I used slicr and cura to test and the cura was way worse than thby xile6 - Reprappers
Quoteaimatt Sorry to backtrack, but I'm having trouble setting the z max height. I tried M206 Z16 but doesn't appear to take when checking with M501. How did you set it? I did all that in the firmware. Your have to upload it to the board with all the readings you took. By default the eeprom fuction is turn off. You can turn it in in the firmware settings tho.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Just a tip for those with the melted looking cubes. I had this problem on pla with my micromake. Its due to not having a cooling fan on the nozzle while printing. try aiming a fan at the bed while printing and see if it improves.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt Ah ok. Do you use some kind of insulation between the bed and the electronics? No the bed is a few cm above the rails and i also have an exhaust fan under the bed to help cool the electrionicsby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt Is the aluminum to help heat up faster? With the glass it's taking 30 mins or more to get to 110 degrees. When i had the heat board and glass on. It seem to heat evenly. Also i hated using the clamps. But the aluminum ones IMO are just better. I do believe they heat up faster. And i know for sure there more evenly heated. Plus no clamps. Just lay down some painters tape and print. Iby xile6 - Delta Machines
I used the 3 t nuts for the bed. I upgraded mines and have the an all aluminum bed. What I did was Put the m3 bolt through the hole, Then used 3 M4 square nuts as a spacer. Then m3 t nut. Works great and make it easy to remove the bed if needed. Also moves the heat away from the main board. I also added a fan there too. here is a few pix I printed out the ramps holder on my other printer. Butby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt Thanks for the help. I did the gcode and it does switch to closed when pressed. So so all the endstops appear to trigger correctly. Doesn't that mean the nozzle shouldn't smash into the glass like it has been? Or is it just used for the probe? How do you do the probe? I'll check on max z length. The probe is used for auto level. To use it. You will have to run G29 code before everyby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt Found it. One of the wires on the x motor came loose. Bad crimp. I'm finding my z endstop is not working. Either it broke when the nozzle smashed into the glass, or I have the wire in the wrong place. Either way, I'm finding that Z reads as ~3mm when it's zeroed. I tried the Z offset setting under motion, but it didn't help. It's also going too wide and smashing into the pulley beltby xile6 - Delta Machines
Could be a problem with pronterface. I always use cura. When printing via sd card its normall correct. given it takes a few minutes to heat. Even if i print via cura and usb it normally within 10% of given time. i.e. says it takes 30mins to print it might take 40mins and thats with a 6-8min heat time.by xile6 - Reprappers
Quoteaimatt This is my first 3d printer, but I've had experience with arduino and multiorotors before, which is pretty similar. I used the rotary encoder to move the x axis + 6mm, but the extruder went straight down. I would expect that that would be the -z axis instead. Is this normal? If not, do I just switch around the stepper wires like I would with a multirotor until it goes the right directby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteaimatt Anyone mount this honking power supply to the frame or I just have to leave it hanging? Mounted to the frame. I had it on the side since the mount i use is for the side, but my bed is bigger (220 alu) So i end up just flipping it and putting it on Z 2020 beam. Works great and also printed out a cover and switch for the power supply. Also if you go on thingivers and search for miby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK Instead of actually understanding your problems with alignment you now have some numbers which, assuming they are anything close to what you posted two posts backs, are completely off. Your printer firmware have saved the day by finding a compromise that allows you to print. But double digits endstop corrections and full digit tower adjustments is wrong. I hope for you that you canby xile6 - Delta Machines
UPDATE* So when i run a firmware that is 1.0.2 or higher. I can use the m666, m500, g30a codes. It works but prints misshaping. i.e. a square comes out diamond shape. I then load the default firmware and it auto levels and prints like normal.The m666,m500 and g30 a codes no longer work. Once i unplug the printer from power and usb. It no longer wants to print correctly. It will start to print inby xile6 - Delta Machines
So i change some firmware setting. Made the printer think the bed was smaller and the hight was smaller (i believe i input 150 for my high when its really around 255) I ran the G30 A again (auto calibration, basically trys different settings and probes the bed till it gets good readings.) I save them via M500 then did the M666 L to display the readings Current Delta geometry values: X endstopby xile6 - Delta Machines
So basically i said forget trying to work round the giving firmware and the information they provide. I took it apart and check everything for myself. first find was the teeth on the pulleys where 16 count. the default firmware had 150 for steps tho. So change that to 100 I then move onto merlin 1.0.4. A fresh unmodified copy. Ported over the basic settings and the new information i found ouby xile6 - Delta Machines
Yea i check those moment out. The left to right or x to y towers stay pretty level. The front to z tower didnt. On the front it it trys to grind the nozzle i to the bes And the rear is in the air. The bed is mount right on the extrusion beams so unless there is wrapable in the beams i doubt the bed is off that much. I still havent made it back to my house but i when i do ill post the G29 readinby xile6 - Delta Machines
Soni check into the firmware and the G30 code isnt in. It seems the default firmware v1. I downloaded 1.0.4 and try the code g30 It trys to do what it needs to. But once it get to the middle of the procces. It crashes into the bed then skips along and probes a few more points then tells me it aborted. And then says the z endstop is not wothon range. Says xy are both -20 while z was like 3 or 5. Iby xile6 - Delta Machines
QuoteLarsK I have no idea why it is doing that. It is wrong. It should probe the actual point. Try G28 G1 Z10 G30 P1 X55 Y0 G30 P1 X-55 Y0 Does the same thing. Anytime i type in G30 it moves to the back of the bed and takes a reading. Its the same spot ever time i marked it on the tape. This is my reading from g29 SENDING:G29 Bed x: 40.00 y: -40.00 z: 5.69 Bed x: 0.00 y: -40.00 z: 5.59 Bby xile6 - Delta Machines
Bed X: 0.00 Y: 35.00 Z: 0.27 >>>g1 x55 f2400 SENDING:G1 X55 F2400 >>>g30 SENDING:G30 Bed X: 0.00 Y: 35.00 Z: 0.24 >>>g1 x38.9 y38.9 SENDING:G1 X38.9 Y38.9 >>>g30 SENDING:G30 Bed X: 0.00 Y: 35.00 Z: 0.23 >>>g1 x0 y55 SENDING:G1 X0 Y55 >>>g30 SENDING:G30 Bed X: 0.00 Y: 35.00 Z: 0.25 >>>g1 x-38.9 y38.9 SENDING:G1 X-38.9 Y38.9 >>>by xile6 - Delta Machines