What sensor are you using? And how is it wire up? The normally 12mm sensor is 12volts and needes resistors to work. Also it will need a ground and output 5volts qhen trigged. But do the comman listed above. It will check for the end stop status. While the probe is in the air not touching the bed. It should read " open". When metal is by it, it should light up and read "triggered". Do this commby xile6 - Delta Machines
My kossel mini has this " #define min_software_endstops true " Does this need to be true or fasle? On my prusa i3 its fasle and my understanding is it lets the hot end drop below 0 in the case the bed has a dip.by xile6 - Delta Machines
Well i got all that taking care off. I dont know what the problem was but i started over with a fresh back up of my firmware. (Maube something got change where it wasnt suppost to) But now ky problem is its printing off. I can make a square in the middle but the right front conner is thinner then the rest of the build. I then to make 3 cubes, one in the center. One near the x tower and one nearby xile6 - Delta Machines
I fix my problem. Turns out i had the Z max set to high/low i guess. These delta type printers are a little backwards to me. I had it set at 280 and i been printing for a a few days on my old setup. Then when i change the autoleveling from hotend with micro switch to inductive probe i had the problem. I fix it by redoing the Z max. I beileve i ended up with 275.4 I have no idea why this needed tby xile6 - Delta Machines
I have a jossel mini (micromake) It used the hot end as a z probe. It would touch down and press a switch. Once done it would park the nozzel about 5mm above the bed I upgraded to an alumi bed so i got an inductive sensor (same one i use on my prusa i3) Well i setup the offsets it probes just find, but once done it crashes the hot end into the bed. I believe it goes down a few mm only. Not sureby xile6 - Delta Machines
Sloved! I notice that i dont have a part cooler for pla. I turn off the heated bed and aim a 120mm fan at the build plate and all is good. I notice right after i did another print and pulled it right off after it was done it was soft. So now im off to find a way to add a part / nozzle cooler.by xile6 - Delta Machines
So i got a delta type printer now. Coming from a prusa i3 (ebay auora z605) Its a micromake (kossel mini clone) woth heated bed. I do need a better way to clamp the hed down for the most part it good right now. So i did my frist test print.this is how it turn out On the left is my delta. On the right is the prusa i3. Can i get some help with setting this up correct? All the delta setting forby xile6 - Delta Machines
Quoteedak Hi all, I just joined and only recently got myself one of the micromake kossel deltas. I want to connect a hot bed to it and I an not sure how exactly this is done. My PCB is a micromake v1.2 and it has two terminals for hear bed but also has a separate power supply for the bed. I can't see anywhere in the default firmware to put the HB temp either. Any suggestions? A picture would hby xile6 - Delta Machines
Hi, I order one of these printer and it should be here soon (hopfully). This will be my second 3d printer i have a prusa i3 z605 that i have had for some months. I understand how the firmware works and i added auto level for the metal bed etc..... Moving on to the question. I download this firmware so i could take a look at the settings and just get a feel for how the Delta type printers work.by xile6 - Delta Machines
You can set it up in the firmware or in slicer 3. I dont remember where these settings are. But basically you made an offset. So when it starts to print it will start at that offset. I know i do this for my auto bed level.by xile6 - Reprappers
Quoteelwood127 I just redesigned and reprinted my entire three piece x carraige in abs. I was at 230c and 100c and used 20% infill with "Automatic" infill settings which uses the "Grid" pattern in Cura on my Z605. They came out pretty darn flat. Slic3r gave me some lifting problems. I'm using glass and Elmers purple glue stick. Good luck. Yours looks different from mines. But i have no probby xile6 - Reprappers
QuoteIMBoring25 If you're just going to work in PLA (and even some ABS), a PLA x-carriage is well-precedented. If you were going to try your hand at higher-temperature materials I'd probably tell you to keep trying with the ABS.ol Ok thanx. Yes i only plan to print in PLA. The ABS just didnt work for me and i dont really have a need to use it. I printed out the x carriage out of PLA .3mm highetby xile6 - Reprappers
I had problems when i frist started trying to level the bed also. What i ened up doing was just leaving out the paper all together. I drop the Z down to its end stop. (make sure the bed is a few mm below the nozzle.) Then i raise up the bed untill the nozzle touch the bed. I started in the center. Then move the Z up 1mm and more it to the Left front conner. Did this for all four conners. Then bby xile6 - Reprappers
So i got me a 3d pritner about a month ago. its an auroa z605. I set it up with autobed leveling. And i print primary in PLA 185c and bed temp of 55c. I want to upgrade the hot end from the MK8 to a e3d. I have tried to print a X-carriage out of abs. But i cant stop the abs from lifting up on the sides. SO i was wondering if i could have make the X-carriage out of PLA. I will have the heatshiby xile6 - Reprappers