The the wayback machine:by the_digital_dentist - General
QuoteMKSA Quotethe_digital_dentist I'm out... Just when it starts to be funny ? I'm in the US. In the last 4 years I've had more than enough "humor" to last a lifetime.by the_digital_dentist - General
You can try reducing motor current/torque so that it starts slipping instead of pushing the tube out. I'm not sure if that would have any effect on normal printing. The tube is most likely to be pushed out when there's a lot of resistance to the strong push from the motor. That can be low temperature for the filament and/or speed and/or layer thickness printed. Or use two filament motion sensorsby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
I think fan noise is mostly from the air moving and/or the way the blades interact with the air, even in the cheapo fans.by the_digital_dentist - General
Don't stick the heater to glass. Glass has low thermal conductivity so the heat will be uneven and you'll have hot and cool spots that can make it hard to get prints to stick. The best thing anyone has come up with so far is cast aluminum tooling plate. It's flat and will spread the heat nicely. Thermal image, heater on glass: Thermal image, same heater on cast aluminum plate, 1/4" thick:by the_digital_dentist - General
Sunon fans aren't the quietest fans in the world, but they're reliable. If you drop the speed too much the maglev bearings don't work right (that's the scuttlebutt).by the_digital_dentist - General
QuoteDragonFire The most effective ways I've found to quieten a fan are;- 1) Paint all the surfaces to reduce drag. Be careful not to get any paint inside the fan. 2) Give it an overnight soak in WD40, drain, shake and dry thorouhly before plugging in. 1) What sort of magic paint is that? Which surfaces are you painting- the blade? the housing? 2) Did you know that WD40 isn't actually a lubby the_digital_dentist - General
As the bed goes down, the nozzle is going up. Your Z axis is inverted. The "top" is where the nozzle touches the bed. That's Z=0. The coordinates are always from the print's point of view.by the_digital_dentist - Printing
Using silicone to glue the heater down is a one-way trip. I don't think anything will make it let go once it sets. If you mean does heating it up get the 468MP to let go? Yes, but be careful, especially if it's a high powered heater. Turn on the power and heat it up, then kill the power, then try to peel the heater off the plate. Wear gloves so you don't burn your hands.by the_digital_dentist - General
Get a heater without the adhesive, and stick it to the bed plate with silicone.by the_digital_dentist - General
Plastic, except PLA, is fine as long as you design the parts like they are made of plastic, not steel. Your picture looks like you've got it figured out. If you want to use metal but don't have a lot of tools, you can do a lot with rectangular aluminum tubing or L or C channel stock.by the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
How much current are you pulling from that power supply, and how much is the supply rated for? Consider the current spec to be like the red line on the tachometer in your car. You wouldn't run the engine continuously at red line unless you didn't mind replacing the engine. Don't run your power supply at red line either, unless you don't mind replacing it. Replacing safety components in a power sby the_digital_dentist - Printing
It was probably a cheapo "LED power supply" with little to no protection and no safety certifications. It's anyone's guess as to why it chose that particular moment to fail, but if you got 4 years out of it and it didn't burn your house down consider yourself lucky. The good news is that it's cheap and easy to replace it with a quality supply. Look for a MeanWell supply (not a fake meanwell supplby the_digital_dentist - Printing
It's really a good idea to set the origin up at the center of the bed as explained in the second link posted above. It simplifies working with different slicers and reduces some of the mental gymnastics when you're trying to understand problems..by the_digital_dentist - General
@drmaestro If you look at the shape of your proposed metal Z axis part it could easily be cut from a cheap piece of aluminum L stock. You might have to move a few parts around a little to make it work, but it isn't going to cost $400 to have someone mill it for you from a solid billet of aluminum. You don't need much more than a hack saw and drill to make it yourself.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
The bed is at Z=0 when it is touching the extruder nozzle. The coordinate system is viewed from the point of view of the print. When the bed is moving down, to the print it looks like the nozzle is moving up, so the bed is moving in the positive Z direction when it is moving down.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Flat glass on an unflat bed will not heat evenly, so you may have problems with getting prints to stick. I am amazed at the effort people put in to understanding how to get autoleveling and flatness compensation working compared to the effort they put in to understanding how to build the printer in the first place. It is entirely possible to build a printer that does not require autoleveling orby the_digital_dentist - General
What problem are you trying to solve?by the_digital_dentist - General
The corexy machine is Ultra MegaMax Dominator (UMMD). The link for the original post on the topic is here.. There have been numerous, mostly small improvements to the original build, so be sure to look at more recent posts before ordering parts or building.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Or you could use a bed that doesn't turn into a potato chip when you heat it up and/or use a properly aligned Z axis. Sensors and software can fix a lot of problems, but if one of those fails, can you still print? Quality construction and proper alignment "just works", every time.by the_digital_dentist - General
Gears mesh on their surfaces. If those surfaces aren't pristine, why would you expect them to mesh correctly? Have you tried square wheels on your car/bicycle yet?by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
The problem I ran into is apparently well known among those who work with servomotors on a regular basis. There is a pretty cheap and easy solution described in this document from the Gecko Drives website. The document illustrates a snubber that shunts the current from the motor to ground as long as the voltage from the motor (the back EMF) is higher than the supply voltage. That will protect theby the_digital_dentist - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
The 30mm fan that comes on an E3D v6 is plenty enough to cool the hot-end. I wouldn't use a 50 mm fan and certainly not two of them. Why move around all that extra weight/bulk on the extruder carriage? Sunon makes quality 30 mm fans with mag-lev bearings that run quietly and almost forever. They cost a few $ but you'll never have to take apart the hot-end to unclog it because the fan died.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
The heater block is aluminum. You could drill it out to 6mm in about 3 seconds with a hand drill.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
In your build the working side of the X belt loop is the side closest to the extruder. It has to be parallel to the X guide rails. The other side of the loop doesn't. Add an idler on the nonworking side that can push against the belt to increase its tension. That whole assembly looks a bit too flexy for me...by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
I was forced to reduce the size of the sand table mechanism I've been powering with iHSV servomotors and was running tests after reassembling the mechanism. The machine homed OK, so i selected one of the old pattern files to run, forgetting that those patterns were for a slightly bigger table. The machine did what it was supposed to and when the carriage hit the end of one of the axes, there wasby the_digital_dentist - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I haven't seen o-drive before- looks interesting. Since you're planning on plotting and probably want to go fast, I don't think the synchromesh cable is going to work for you. Look at the video showing a 3D printer on the page you linked. Watch the cable going on and coming off the pulley- it bounces. It's going to be very noisy at high speed if it manages to stay on the pulleys. If you wantby the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines