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Plastics, Epoxies, Resins, Photopolymerization, etc - Research, Development, Use, and Analysis -> http://objects.reprap.org/wiki/Plastics
Re: Printing Nylon with and without carbon fibre Nylon 12 Nylon 6 Taulman 910 - 6 years ago
In case anyone else stumbles on this thread whilst looking for help... Gave up on the Fillamentum Nylon CF15, just couldn't get it to stick despite trying everything they (eventually) suggested on their very slow tech support email, and lot of other ideas I made up myself. It was OK for small parts but anything over 20mm is going to warp and getting bed adhesion is very very difficult. On the pby gsport - Printing
Re: Printing Nylon with and without carbon fibre Nylon 12 Nylon 6 Taulman 910 - 6 years ago
Thanks Adrian, I've heard of the Tufnol being a possibility but wasn't sure what type people were using, I'll look into some whale. Do you know if this holds for the carbon filled ones? Georgeby gsport - Printing
Printing Nylon with and without carbon fibre Nylon 12 Nylon 6 Taulman 910 - 6 years ago
Hi, Could do with some help because I am getting none from the filament manufacturer. I print mostly with Nylon and with varying degrees of success. I have had some great parts and a stack of fails. Generic cheap Nylon 6 has actually worked OK for me. I've done some quite big parts 200mm across. Lots of warping but dry filament and PVA on heated glass (actually not that hot around 60C) has stucby gsport - Printing
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Quotekengineer Quotegsport Quotekengineer Mechanics of the machine aside, what about the thermal expansion of the materials? If you think of a .5 meter object, depending on the exact material you select, it may be quite a bit longer (thermal expansion) at the temp it comes out of the nozzle than at room temp. If the material you select has a thermal coefficient vastly different from the bed matby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
QuoteWesBrooks I've reasonable experience with building/designing/servicing additive manufacturing machines but far less so with the extrusion printers. I'm having to learning fast and considering a similar path to yourself. This is my 2p worth, more experienced fused filament users are likely to expand further or indeed rule out some of these comments! I'm currently building a 300x300x300mm corby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Its definitely going to be a consideration, but I don't think it is something that can be solved on paper in advance (at least with the resources I have to hand). The problem is that the coefficient of thermal expansion is not linear and goes completely out the window once the material actually undergoes a phase change from liquid to solid. I'm currently planning to use marble as my build platforby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Quotedc42 You can find descriptions of various printers using Duets at . There are a few reviews of the Duet WiFi around including this one . PS - Smoothieboard 5XC from Ooznest inc. voltage regulator is £168 inc VAT. Duet WiFi/Duet Ethernet are both £144 inc. VAT. So I was right, the Duets do cost less, despite the advantages they offer. I didn't check carriage costs. The Duet Ethernet price wiby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Quotekengineer Mechanics of the machine aside, what about the thermal expansion of the materials? If you think of a .5 meter object, depending on the exact material you select, it may be quite a bit longer (thermal expansion) at the temp it comes out of the nozzle than at room temp. If the material you select has a thermal coefficient vastly different from the bed material or at room temp, youby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotegsport 3. I am definitely assuming 24 volts for everything. Both the Smoothie board and the Duet will do 24volt and the Smoothie board will do 2Amps per stepper and the Duet 2.8A so I was hoping that would be enough to drive multiple steppers. Please excuse my slowness, but I dont see how running steppers in series would work. Wouldn't that halve the voltage? Yes, but this is usuaby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
QuoteHugoW I would go for a CoreXY machine, I'm building one with a 400x400x300 range and I could easily see it scaled up a bit more. For the bed I use tooling plate. I choose 400x400 (plate is slightly bigger to fit mountings to) because I can fit 4 200x200 hot end plates. In your case going for 600x800 would allow for 12(!) of those standard plates. Hmmmm, you'll need a nice power source... Betby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
QuoteRoberts_Clif Quotegsport Thanks for sharing that, sorry if my title seemed silly, I just wanted to make it clear that I have been searching previous posts on the subject. I know it is possible or I wouldn't be trying. George I knew you had, wanted to show you BigRep but I got carried away, an keep on typing. I too want to make my 3D printers larger, Thought would start with an upward jumby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
Quotedc42 I don't consider myself an expert on the mechanical side of things. but here is my 2p worth: 1. Bed: with a bed of that size, you lose the advantages of removable glass beds (i.e. being to swap them easily to start another print quickly, and being able to put the bed + print in the fridge/freezer if it is difficult to separate them). So I suggest you use a cast aluminium tool plate (toby gsport - General
Re: Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
QuoteRoberts_Clif Not sure what you mean, this Erectorbot Fused Filament Fabrication 3D Printer has Build Size: 6096 x 2133.6 x 1828.9 mm or 23 cubic meters with mechanical printing speeds 1000mm/sec, this printer uses a .70 tip. (They called it a tip 'I would have called it a nozzle') DUS Architects and Fiction Factory Fused Filament Fabrication 2.2 x 2.2 x 3.5 m Traktus 3D Fused Filament Fabriby gsport - General
Another idiot wanting to build too big a printer - 7 years ago
A few years back I built a Prusa i2 derivative and have been printing things on that quite happily using Slic3r and pronterface. But now I want to print some bigger stuff. I've done experiments with printing in sections and gluing together the results, but that hasn't been great and wont work for the new stuff I want to print so... I want to build a new printer to take advantage of all the imprby gsport - General
Re: Plywood frame? 300 x 200 bed? - 9 years ago
Bending moment will go up 50% roughly so ideally second moment of area needs to go up by a similar amount. Going from 8 being adequate on a 200mm run 9 would be fine for 300. But 9 is not a standard size so 10 should be a significant step up in stiffness even with the longer run.by gsport - Mendel90
Re: Plywood frame? 300 x 200 bed? - 9 years ago
Thanks. I think the key consideration is going to be the weight of the X carriage vs the weight of the bed. I think the carriage is likely to end up considerably lighter so it makes sense for that to be the part moving furthest/most. And thanks Ralph, that was the one I was looking at. Georgeby gsport - Mendel90
Re: Plywood frame? 300 x 200 bed? - 9 years ago
Thanks for that. I will try to check the flatness of my sheets of ply. Good point on the X vs Y axis. You are assuming that I would need to widen the spacing of the Y axis bearings as much as the increase in the bed size, whereas I had assumed that I would leave it as it is. I could also put a support in the middle of the long bar and space out the linear bearings even more so they effectively aby gsport - Mendel90
Plywood frame? 300 x 200 bed? - 9 years ago
Been planning on building a 90 for a while now, and the failure of a plastic clip on my current Prusa which requires re-building the whole corner and re-calibrating has made me decide it is time. I am not a fan of MDF but I do rather like plywood and happen to have some very nice offcuts of 15mm Birch ply that I was planning to use. My feeling is that these will be just as dimensionally stable aby gsport - Mendel90
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
I have got my glass now and ground the ends flat which was very easy. Unfortunately is comes in at 3.05 ID which is fine on some of my filament that is 2.85 or so (and very oval) but will be a problem on the 3.02mm filament I have. I am less worried about the filament sticking to the glass now, because I think that the glass will soon become "dirty" with oils etc out of the filament and then beby gsport - General
Re: Heated build platform idea. - 10 years ago
I am pretty sure my mother-in-law had something very similar to this. Really dont think it is new technology. How about this:- 70's warmer ?by gsport - General
Re: Heated build platform idea. - 10 years ago
Is that substantially different to a normal plate warmer? If not I would think that you could pick one up easily from a charity shop for a tenner.by gsport - General
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
^^^ Thanks Davew_tx, that is all good food for thought, I will definitely look at extending the melt zone length. This was not meant to be a model to build from, just something quick to get the idea across on here, I was going to turn the important parts and then just drill-press, saw and file the rest. I may make the brass part smaller with a ridge and then fix the bolts through a stainless waby gsport - General
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
I found the glass tubes on ebay without much hunting ebay glass tubes I was going to wait and see what the tolerance on the tubes comes out like and then either have the aluminium heatsink clamp around the glass tube, or more likely just have the smallest clearance I can manage and fill the gap with a thermally conductive glue or aluminium foil or something.. Now I think about it more, I may juby gsport - General
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
^^^^ That was my hope. The conductivity is so low and hopefully the filament in the section that corresponds to that temperature is still fairly stiff so only touches on a small tangent. Yes, the seepage at the joint from glass to brass is a worry. Hopefully I can grind the end of the glass tube to be nice and flat like a bottle stopper, but getting a good surface on the brass may not be so easyby gsport - General
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
^^^ This is my worry... The one huge benefit is that you would be able to see some of what was going on, and perhaps even take temperature readings of the filament itself in the tube! Already ordered the glass tubes and should have some 1.5" brass and aluminium somewhere. Georgeby gsport - General
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
This is the sort of thing I had in mind. Bit of machining on the brass tip and aluminium upper but glass tube just needs ends grinding flat. Stainless M2 - M3 screws (this is modeled with M3 as much cheaper, and uses 2mm hex key like other parts) keep the tube clamped to the aluminium top. There is the possibility that the glass will become loose as the bolts expand, but this shouldn't beby gsport - General
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
Thanks Dust that is interesting. I was searching for people who might have used it as a thermal break rather than including the nozzle so didn't find that. I am pretty sure I can build it very easily, my only concern is how the plastic will slide in it. There will obviously be a section that is at heated bed kind of temperature which is obviously likely to stick if given the chance, which will dby gsport - General
Re: Is there any alternative to Teflon? - 10 years ago
How about glass? It is very easy to get hold of a 6mm OD 3mm ID borosilicate glass tube. Should have a smooth bore, very low conduction, happy with high temps and cheap (5 for a fiver on ebay). I was thinking that I would mount a combined nozzle/heater block on the end with just 3mm or so between the end of the glass tube and the tip. Probably using an arrangement of stainless studs or similarby gsport - General
Re: Best method for replacing filament? - 10 years ago
I usually just snip off the current roll, then feed in the new one. You need to manually extrude a few tens of mm's before the new stuff starts coming through, but otherwise it is painless.by gsport - Mendel90
Re: Getting the filament to initially stick - 10 years ago
What are you printing with and on? If PLA on glass then I found that cleaning the glass with alcohol (I use car de-icer) between prints is 100% reliable. Georgeby gsport - General