Quote691175002 Linear rail bolted to tslot is really your best option. Getting the right used rail at a reasonable price can be a PITA so it might be worth just going to Hwin or another Chinese supplier and having them set you up with new parts. Even supported linear shaft is pretty accurate and disgustingly cheap as well. Thats pretty close to what I went with. I contacted PBC linear sales pby L4nce0 - General
Yes that looks a lot like what I need. I called up the clowns at newmark systems they wanted something like 8k for 4 1000mm smooth rods, two nema 23 steppers, two belts, two carriages and some mounts. Though whats with the "almost" reliable part? I rather spend 2k and get always reliable, as a mistake can ruin a 2 day print.by L4nce0 - General
Hi everyone. I'm building a printer that is in the 600-800mm XY print length (each not combined) I'm having issues finding a supplier for these linear rails / slides. I got the Z axis off ebay from PBC linear. I am trying to stay in PBC linear quality. However the guys at info@aapautomation.comby L4nce0 - General
Quotethetazzbot I have a question for the OP. Will you always be printing such huge items? The reason i ask is that for the complexity and size the payoff is not proportional. For example if i were printing tons of smallish parts i would rather go with multiple printers for redundancy and parallel printing. Or a printer with multiple print heads to print simultaneous duplicates. Curious aboby L4nce0 - General
Quotedc42 As Jason says, for large heated beds the practical option is an AC mains powered bed controlled by an SSR. The company he linked to will make a custom silicone heater to your size, voltage and power specifications at a very good price. I use a 230V 350W 300mm diameter one from them in my delta printer. Choose a heater slightly smaller than the bed to leave yourself a margin (e.g. 15mm)by L4nce0 - General
This looks perfect! Though can you go into what a SSR is? Is there any examples online of this setup? Thanks!by L4nce0 - General
Quotesungod3k All solvable problems in terms of scaling. If you find a robot arm used and cheap that would make things easier, but there are several large deltas to print house parts. That should be a size that fits. Do you have any special application for it because I have build a larger delta and im seeing now that there is not really the demand for prints that size, so my next one will be smaby L4nce0 - General
I'm thinking I'm going to do the Diamond. They are coming out with a 3mm version. I've tried 1.75 mm before and I spent all my time unjamming it. It literally crinkled in my plastruder, over and over. So I stay far away from it. Though I do see why one would want to use it in a bowden system. I'll just stay stubborn ;-) I get past the S to V ratio by pumping more heat :-D.. Sides at the speeds Iby L4nce0 - General
Argh how annoying, I checked follow, but not email replies. So what ended up happening, I drooled over the airwolf systems, but just could not see how on earth it would cost 5k for their systems. That lead me to the Giga printer. Which I Loved! I would have totally bought their 5k kit... till they started %%% me off with a 200 dollar "roller" kit. I mean come on that's not even 70 in parts. Madby L4nce0 - General
Hi everyone. I'm looking on how I can make or buy, or daisy chain a heated bed. I'm looking to make a printer about 30" by 30" I'm also thinking that I might have trouble heating that much with a RAMBO board, even with a 24V PSU. Does anyone have experience with this?by L4nce0 - General
Hi everyone. I've been drooling over that PBC linear 15k meter by a meter printer. But. 15k. no. not paying that much. My mendelmax 1.5+ has been great. Did a lot of custom work with PBC linear parts to get it to run as fast as 200mm/s (print at 100 as with a 0.75mm print head it cant pump out enough heat) So I'm interested in looking into building my own. Though I'm hoping not to be a trail blby L4nce0 - General
I got it taken care of. I had no idea that marlin and sprinter were so different. With calibrated PIDs I no longer have a temp delta of 5 to 10 degrees!by L4nce0 - Printing
Hi everyone. I'm looking to put together a list of Essential Reprap tools. I'm looking more in the realm of hand tools, mostly for those looking to refine a print. An example of tools I know off the top of my head would be, your standard plyers, multi tool, acetone brush. So what is your special tool that is essential to making your prints just that much more perfect?by L4nce0 - General
Hi all, My issue is I hit print, and it gets to say 194 (of 195 goal) ... bounce back down 5 or so degrees, bounce back up, endlessly. I end up hitting disconnect and cranking up the temps before I hit print to get around it. I'm using sprinter which I read does not need PID calibration. What I did was a pretty major change. I have a trinity labs kit (shame they went under!) I custom upgradedby L4nce0 - Printing
nophead Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I can't see what the significance of steps per mm > divided by layer height is. The relevant thing is > steps per layer, which is steps per mm times layer > height. > > With 0.35mm layers you get 2560 * 0.35 = 896 > steps per layer, so no error. > With 0.319mm layers you get 816.64 steps per > lby L4nce0 - Developers
You have 2560 which is the no steps per mm. Now lets look at the math for the calculation 2560 / 0.35 = 7 314.28571 No steps per mm, over the layer height. This gives us a ratio of steps for every millimeter, not the actual steps. Say you have 10 layers per mm, and with the math, you come out to a solid roundish number, awesome! If you loose or gain a step, say 10 steps per mm.. what's goingby L4nce0 - Developers
Yeah I'm good at programming, expressing it so everyone understands is another story. I would say from the few weeks of research I've done that it has nothing to do with your firmware, as it does your stepper motors. As you know a step is the set amount of known movement for a motor, given a single bipolar pulse. Following, it makes no sense to tell your motor to do .0312312312312 or whatever oby L4nce0 - Developers
I've just made an applet to help people figure out optimal layer heights. You can pick out the level of resolution, and put in any nozzle sizes. The defaults are for my prusa. It also lists in order starting with best, the top 5 layer heights ( as it outputs a lot of information) Check it out Sample output Best Layer Heights: 0.301, 0.15, 0.254, 0.287, 0.278 Layer Height: 0.345 Raw Value: 655by L4nce0 - Developers
I think you have the exact same issue I have. The main problem for me is my rods arn't cut 99.99% correct. They are different by a few mm. So When you tighten that belt, combined with the super minimalistic design, the one side gets pulled in and the belts get out of alignment. I've not really found a solution except I added a second bearing on the x idlerby L4nce0 - General Mendel Topics
Honestly sfact and skeinforge is a pain in the butt. It works, and suddenly it doesn't. I've even had it where it wouldn't make setting changes. I moved to slicer, and it's a drastic difference.by L4nce0 - General Mendel Topics
If one cannot keep the plastic diameter consistent... I know there are ways to mesure the amount of flow of a liquid. Not a cheap let alone easy solution.... The only thing that comes to mind is molds, but I bet air bubbles would hender that idea..by L4nce0 - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
This is really awesome. Any idea where I can get some of this filament?by L4nce0 - Polymer Working Group
Hi guys! Sorry if this has been asked before, nothing popped up. Anyways I was wondering if PLA from our prusas is food safe. IE if I made special bowls, utensils, or any weird sciency device I can think of, would I have any issues for my own health, and if I will have any legal liabilities. I can think of a few way out there idea, say a hookah base for my roommate. Thanks!by L4nce0 - Polymer Working Group
Hi guys! I'm developing my own reprap variation. The main purpose is I think my prusa is too flimsy, rocks too much, and too cut every conrer possible. Mine will be scalible and no moving heat bed! ( and you wonder why prints come off) The ides is that the extensions can be printer in sections, or completely non repstrap / buy everything from a hardware store. ( spare carriage etc) Anyways, I seby L4nce0 - General
Hah geese, I'm still only one of 3 posts, after over a year? I got a prusa these days, if any one is in the fort collins area, look me up. just take my user name, make the 0 a 1 and add a gmail to it.by L4nce0 - Colorado, Denver RepRap User Group
I'll admit I'm a bit confused =) I think the photos look pretty good. What / why would I take something apart? Well no one has replied saying "no you idiot!!1!" So I added one of the photos the the Wiki. if it's wrong PLEASE fix the wikiby L4nce0 - RAMPS Electronics
hah yeah far from professional, but at the same time I'm not exactly able to buy a 300 dollar macro lens. More of, there isn't a single photo and these aren't that bad, maybe it can help, sorta thing. These were taken in Macro mode actually, 18-55mm lens.by L4nce0 - RAMPS Electronics
Hey guys, I've been trolling the IRC so I think I've done it all pretty well. Though I think the best way to describe the instructions ( least the later parts) wiki page as a collection of half thoughts. "Solder to a x mm housing... " Is like saying "walk to the store for.." when I'm done I hope to contribute to the wiki a bit. Specifically MORE PHOTOS, and perhaps a bit of rewording (current wrby L4nce0 - RAMPS Electronics
I'm looking to buy a Mendel. It's a quick shot in the dark. I found my self in a car speaker store, with a 800 dollar invoice. I much much rather just get a 3d printer. Though every time I looked into it, I had an impossible time finding sellers.. without the feeling that, hey I'm being ripped off! This is a quick shot in the dark. If everything lines up right, I can buy one.. lets say were puttby L4nce0 - For Sale
Java is my strongest language. Over at CSU, that,s more or less the only thing they teach you until 300+ level courses. Even then it's mostly java. I've taken some C courses that were extra non needed credits, and I start c++ this fall. Cool, maybe I can contribute some fun stuff. I'll just put that idea after mastering android phones. (got hello world working!) ooo, I'm positive they have a laby L4nce0 - General