There is a "best 3d printed machine" contest over at the Reddit 3d printing forums. If enough people enter, they are giving away a 3d printer. So far there are 3 out of 25 needed entries, with a deadline 16 days away. Soo, if anyone is interested, you should totally enter.by piercet - Competitions
Most of the Taz printers shipped with a Rambo 1.1 board manufactured by Ultimaker. Specifically this one: I know of at least one other person reporting this same version of Repetier will not function with their TAZ as well over in the lulzbot forums in addition to myself. I believe that unit is a similar board revision. I'd be happy to take a look at the logs and post them here. I don't appby piercet - Repetier
I've tried it in and out of ping pong mode with every other setting combination I could think of. I've tried it in AutoDetect mode, In ASCII mode, In Repetier mode even though I'm not running repetier firmware. I tried printing to the virtual printer setting. I've tried every Baud with every setting. I've tried all the DTR reset settings including disable. Once on DTR-Toggle mode I got it to acceby piercet - Repetier
My printer has been working flawlessly with older versions of Repetier. Today I upgraded to 1.01, and it connects to the printer, it sends the reconnect disconnect settings, and even seems to turn the heaters on and off, but I cannot get it to send a movement command. Prointerface or manual control from the LCD still works fine. I've tried every baud, every setting in the printer settings I can fby piercet - Repetier
I know alot of machine specific development goes on in the various forums of the companies that produced the machine. For example, I've completed several major redesigns of the lulzbot AO-100 chassis that I only documented in the lulzbot developer forum: Things like adding linear z rails, adding ballscrews, frame modifications, X end modifications to mitigate banding, Lighting modifications etc.by piercet - General
You have a hobbed pulley style microextruder. I'm guessing something along the lines of a Makerbot Extruder MK. 7, but I don't recognize the actual model from the picture. The operation theory is similar. For example the red residue on the hobbed pulley itself is impacted plastic. You ideally want to clean that out when you get a chance, which should improve your print quality by ensuring the corby piercet - Printing
It looks to me like you have a mechanical extruder issue there somewhere that is causing extrusion buildup in some areas, and slight voids in others.. What type of extruder are you presently using? If it is a Wades style, check that the idler bearing still works (they can gum up sometimes), and that the set screw on the small gear is down and tight. Also check that the hobbed bolt is not too tighby piercet - Printing
If anyone else in the future runs into this, there is one other potential cause of this to look at as well. I ran into the same thing happening on a formerly working printer. it turns out that one of the NEMA motor wires had actually broken (in my case it was the red wire on a Lulzbot NEMA 17 motor on,y Y axis) that caused the print bed to move twice the distance at twice normal speed, but only iby piercet - General
You need a pair of DB9 - DB9 Serial header cables.Two for example would work just fine assuming you keep it away from electrical interferance or shield it. I'm running that exact set of cables on my printer with a RAMPS 1.4 board. It seems to work fine.by piercet - General
Your Y axis belt isn't tight enough, or your pulley is loose would be my diagnossis from what little I can see of the machine in the video.by piercet - Printing
For what it's worth, keeping in mind my 15 years of experience as the Senior Forum Administrator on one of the larger MMO gaming forums on the planet, the moderators here have been very lenient with you. I don't know what your beef with certain people is all about, I don't particularly care, but some of what you have been posting is way out of line. I would have banned you weeks ago personally.by piercet - Administration, Announcements, Policy
I kind of like the idea of getting a dedicated "I don't have to jumper any pins or do any modification" power supply. That one you linked regpye is the right size, but the amperage might be a bit low to drive the printer and the heated bed. The one I have right now is a 360 watt, 30 Amp. I ran across this one though: which looks like it is a pre-modded Dell PSU, it's in the 835 watt 70 amp ranby piercet - General
it already has feet on it. I don't want to raise it any more than it is if I can help it, purely for asthetics reasons.by piercet - General
Hmm, actually the old G4 power supplies might not be bad for converting.by piercet - General
How would I interface into a DL380 power supply? They have those PCI slot like attachments on the end. I actually have access to several Gen 4 and Gen5 power supplies, but I don't know where I could ge tthe socket pieces short of pulling apart a server, and then how would I jumper it on without the motherboard? That would definitly fit if the other parts could be figured out.by piercet - General
As part of my ongoing printer rebuild project, I want to move the power supply under the main frame below the deckplates. I've discovered my existing power supply is not quite narrow enough to go in there though. It could be longer, it could be taller somewhat, but it needs to be about 15mm - 20mm narrower than the current 115mm width. I'm running 12 volt electronics at the moment, so if I switchby piercet - General
I can see this being useful for material type switches. Go from a standard hot end to a paste extruder to a flexable filliament extruder, etc. You could easily have the docking area provide power to the extruder to keep it warm if you didn't particularly care about regulating the temperature at that point, just keep it "Warm enough"? I'll check out those spring loaded pins. that might do the trby piercet - Developers
The mechanical aspect of a tool change package like this hasn't ever been the stopping point for me. It's the electrical contact situation. I need some sort of "laptop docking port" connector that is small enough to fit an extruder, but large enough a human can attach wires to it somehow. DB9 or DB15 panel mount connectors work, but they are really bulky. I want more than 4 pins because I want toby piercet - Developers
There is a variant of that fan out there that has a temperature sensor readout. No reason that couldn't be attached to a heat bed. Something like this:by piercet - Developers
Yay! I potentially helped!by piercet - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Why not magnets on the leading and trailing edge of each blade? you could sandwich them inside aluminum and still get a pristine surface. then you would just need to have enough resistance on the pivot motion so the blades would only move when pulled by their adjacent segment. Aaand, after typing that I realized the topic is months old aside from that reply. But it's still a useful idea so i'm gby piercet - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
kscharf, for a Z axis driver solid enough to get you up and printing to the point you can print your own preferred coupler, take a length of fairly thick nylon tubing, put it in some hot water to soften, then thread about just under half of it onto your threaded rod. now wedge a small ball bearing ball about the same diameter as your threaded rod for a pivot, then slide the assembly over your NEMby piercet - General
The Lulzbot ABS seems to print really well and seems to hold up well over time from what I have seen. I think their neutral ABS is probably about my favorite printing medium in terms of ease of use and layer consistancy, followed by the generic green I seem to use for everything else.by piercet - General
Given the frame of the mendelmax 2 I think it will be an easier platform to work future upgrades on, and the supported X rails seem to be more accurate than the typical rod sections. That being said, I do think that either platform can be upgraded to greater accuracy than stock, and more importantly, eventually the same level of accuracy and since I have essentially a mendelmax 1.5+ (sort of), thby piercet - General
If you happen to want to incorporate the Taz style X ends into a mendelmax style frame, or add Linear Z rails instead of unsupported rods, take a look at my upgrade projects. They might not exactly match where you are planning on going with your design, but you may be able to take helpful components and ideas from them if nothing else. Taz style clamp X ends for Mendelmax 1.5-ish printers - Liby piercet - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hello! Another dreaded newbie poster in your forum asking machine questions thread, I know, but this seems like a knowledge packed bunch of people willing to answer such questions, and I'll try not to be too much of a pest about it. Anyways, I have a mendelmax style machine. It started out life as a lulzbot AO-100, and has been extensivly upgraded to where it is almost a Mendelmax 1.5+, but difby piercet - General