N 10 n11 n12... What s that ? Line number ? What kind of brackets do you need? '(' or ')' ? and my version of cura: cura 14.01 give full numbers for feedrate. F2100 for example.by victorjung - General
You can try without the bearing around the upper extremity of your z screw so it can move more freely. I heard that worked for somebody here !by victorjung - Reprappers
A small c program could do that ! I could certainly write it if you really need itby victorjung - General
Quotetjb1 The best spring to get is a design that doesn't use springs. could you suggest some? Cause I don't remember to have seen any?by victorjung - Reprappers
Problem solved. I defined an lcd in marlin, but didn't plugged one into the ramps, and i think that was the problem!by victorjung - Reprappers
Hello world! My arduino mega2560 had a problem it can't hold serial communications anymore.... I had an external ft232 so serial communication works again. but since i can't print cause i got the error: Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 this error only appears when I try to move a motor... I can check temp and heat without any problem. I was wondering if it could be relateby victorjung - Reprappers
I really don't know... i should try again to see if it works with pronterface now. But for the moment the atmega16u of my mega board fried, and i can't use it ...by victorjung - Reprappers
You have to cool quite hard the Coper heatsink of your byddaschnozzle for printing pla. Also you have to be sure that the inside ptfe tubing is long enough to have no gaps in the top or bottom of it. That solve my problem for pla and budda. Also I print at 175 degree to be sure that the upper part of the filament doesn't soften too muchby victorjung - Reprappers
yep, areyour endstop plugged and working? i guess if you send m119, it will say x triggered y triggered and z triggered. If you want to continue your test, without plug in the end stop, you have to try, invert endstop logic in your firmware, so it will see them as open. The fact is you can't go further than the eendstop.by victorjung - Reprappers
It appeared that it was a bug in pronterface, it works well with cura!by victorjung - Reprappers
Hi, i changed my printrboard for a ramps 1.4 with stepstick, I am almost good but... When I try to extrude or /reverse the moto spin in the same direction I try to plug the motor into the x axis slot, and I was able to move it in both direction! I also tried several stepstick I always got the same problem. I think there might be a problem with the dir pin of the ramps or of the arduino, do youby victorjung - Reprappers
yes i know, but there is nothing more than that you should worry aboutby victorjung - Reprappers
that's really weird that different host says different values.... you should check if the thermistor work fine, by measuring it resistance at ambiant temp, and with a hairdrier blowing on hit, to see if the resistance change... and note the values if you have a thermometer with a bit of range, you can make a table ohm/degrees you have measured.by victorjung - Reprappers
the strongest you can find, and that fit around your bed screws!by victorjung - Reprappers
lets start with the temperature. have you well plugged the thermistor? if yes ,did you modify the firmware to fit the thermisotr you have?by victorjung - Reprappers
Wahou ! That s Nice ! How do you manage the fourth axis in the firmware ?by victorjung - Developers
you can't drive dc motor directly with the arduino, you need an hbridge for that. You can also drive 2 dc motor CW and CCW with 1 stepper driver such as l298. You will also need 2x2 input for the 2 ir quadratur encoders that comes with the 2 dc motors. I don't think you need a ramps. you better wire everything on the arduino.by victorjung - Reprappers
SHINANO KENSHI STP-43D3013, should work fine for what i can read!by victorjung - Reprappers
100mm/sec is already very good according to me. I am happy with mine running at 40mm/sby victorjung - General
QuoteDejay What is an autonomous block? It's the name I give for a dc motor with his encoder, and his regulator, that will respond well to a command as an angle, just like rc-servo does. but faster. After you have that working, you can put this "block" in a 3d printer . But as other said before, you better have that working before thinking of a whole machine.by victorjung - Reprappers
stepper + electronics only are 100usd so it's hard to go downby victorjung - Developers
that something I was thinking about a while ago... But I finally change my mind cause you can have 5 steppers for around 60 usd shipped, and it's hard to find 5 geared dc motors and 5 encoders for the same price... So the only case it would be worth to use dc motors, would be when you can found them for free with the encoders. The other thing that dampen me, is tha it won't be compatible with actby victorjung - Reprappers
Quotegmh39 Something that combines the STL with print settings so all the user needs to do it load it up and hit print. No tweaking of settings of having to guess what infill to print at. You can't really give the settings, cause it depends to much on the machine, but for sure, they could give at least some tips! Ikea could do that, it will be so great to print the missing or broken part!by victorjung - General
Also it's may just not be something that everybody need. Desktop printer came to replace typing machine, wich was a thing almost everybody was using. But 3d printer will replace lathe, mill machine cnc etc..wich are only used by a few people. So I guess, for now, most of the people just don't have the use of it. But it could certainly change if people really start printing insted of buying stuffby victorjung - General
The biggest problem is not about 3d peintres according to me. It s more about the conception of the object. I mean everybody have an inkjet or a laser printer cause everybody have the use of it, cause they know how to usr ms words or page or whatever.... But how many know how to design à 3d model for what they want with SW, catia sketchup or blender ? 3d printer cant become mainstream until 3d dby victorjung - General
Why do you want to do this? i also have a budaschnozzle 1.something, with bowden tube, and it didn't worked well until, I cooled the cold end harder, and adjusted my extruder to have it as strong as it can be.and now I am printing pretty good!by victorjung - General
I always used cheap chines micho-switch, straightly wired to my printrboard, never had any troubles, and really cheap!by victorjung - General
i don't really know, where you will find it, but be aware that some people had really bat time printing pla in 1.75mm with the budaschnozzleby victorjung - General
Ok then, it seems that you was right, after a whil it become verry hard to push the filament. I adjust the extruder to be as strong as possible... I lowered the heater against the nozzle, i also check that the ptfe tube is well locked and do not leave a gap near the M10 barrel and itself. then I also put a bigger fan a 40x40. Wanna see how it works now!!!by victorjung - Printing
Thanks for your detailed answer. You have seen right, i got a fan on the cold end, and a bowden tube configuration, the fan is maybe a bit under sized, it'a 30x30mm I gonna check how hard it is to push the filament when it's starting to mess up the print. I am not really sure about your creep idea cause, I can start a print a long time after the hot end reached temperature, and first layers are gby victorjung - Printing