Increase your infill overlap and deactivate the wipe function, use random start point. S3D have too many different functions to try to explain them all, but play with infill extrusion percentage to tweak little details, use the retract between layers and the little gaps fill.by ggherbaz - Printing
Check the wiring of your bed, some have dual settings for 12 and 24 volts and yours might be set for 24 or if dual coil heater maybe only one is working.by ggherbaz - Printing
Check your micro stepping, sounds like it's half of what it needs to be, don't know what board you have but you might be missing a jumper under the driver or isn't set correctly.by ggherbaz - Printing
Is not advisable to use the same width of the nozzle on the extrusion, usually for a 0.4 nozzle your extrusion nerds to be at 0.48 for best results, I have gone down to 0.45 without issues but once you go lower than that you might face perimeter bonding issues. Now 86 percent in a 1.72 mm filament is telling me that your steps per mm are way off, it should be over 100. You need to calibrate yourby ggherbaz - Printing
From my own experience, buy any printer you want that is within your range, expend the next few months experimenting with it until you know exactly what you are doing and once you can hit print and leave the printer alone and when you come back you have a perfect print, then start offering your services. It took me about six months to achieve that, but it worth it since I have the time to understby ggherbaz - General
Smaller if your nozzle is crashing against the bed, bigger if is hanging on the air. What system are you using? Servo or sensor?by ggherbaz - General
Not a delta owner but: 1. All timing pulleys needs to be the same. 2. All the spacing needs to be the same if not you will loose accuracy. 3. Doesn't need to be identical, depending on the added hotend and intended usage you can go higher or lower in the torque range.by ggherbaz - General
It ain't dead, it's just that there is so many variants of the Prusa I3 that you have to pick which one you want to go for.by ggherbaz - General
Open your g code file with notepad or wordpad and check the temperature set in the file, you might not be setting the temperature right in the slicer. Will the printer try to keep printing the file or stops immediately?by ggherbaz - Printing
can you post your slicer configuration screens? I think your problem is where you are setting the printing origin in your slicer.by ggherbaz - Printing
ok, first you need to calibrate again your extruder so when you extrude 10 mm the filament on the infeed side of the extruder moves 10 mm, repeat that with 100 mm. adjust your steps per mm (using the biggest difference number) and repeat the process until you get exact results. Once satisfied you need to print single line extrusions in your built plate, with each line you are going to test your eby ggherbaz - Printing
It was trying to home or it was ready to print? If it was trying to home, your stepper direction, your home position (min or max) or your endstop connection are opposite to where they should be. If it was in the process of printing (after homing ) you printer origin is outside built plate area, which could be cause by wrong size of built plate in the firmware or wrong origin location either onby ggherbaz - Printing
I have explained that in several treads, the reason for that is that your wall thickness doesn't match your extrusion width and the slicer just leave the space blank. A 0.4 nozzle usually extrudes a 0.48 width filament, in your case looks like 4 perimeters compose the wall so to seal it your wall needs to be 0.48 X 4 = 1.92 mm, anything bigger than that and you will see the space, anything smallby ggherbaz - General
With the amount of work that will take, the hours in the iterations and the research money needed, I don't think you will see anytime soon a reprap printer like that, even less the affordable part. You will have to either have a big pocket for a commercial printer or for your own development. Everyone wants to reach that point, but will take several years to get there.by ggherbaz - General
With driver I meant stepper driver in the printer main board. It's a good idea to reinstall the software and probably even the firmware in the printer if you have it available, that way you eliminate possible causes.by ggherbaz - Printing
You just mentioned the basic ones, but to be honest it's a lot of trial and error. You need to establish first what you want out of it (materials that will extrude, speeds that will print at and price you want to sell it for) then you will have to select the materials it's going to be built of based on qualities and price point, then you will have to design each part based on it's function and thby ggherbaz - Developers
Didn't the printer came with the firmware already set? Did you modify something in the printer? Can you be more specific about the bullseye calibration and what did you change in the firmware? Usually is the other way around, the firmware assume a flat surface when in reality you have a bowed bed.by ggherbaz - Printing
Quote the idler wheel was a bit loose so I shimmed it and tighted it back up If the idler lock itself with the shims it will cause all the problems you are facing. Let me know if you find the problem.by ggherbaz - Printing
Ok, does your board have an extra extruder driver that you can check if the one in use is damaged? If not and assuming you cannot swap drivers, been careful home your printer and once is at the correct distance connect your extruder to Z axis (assuming single Z axis driver) and change a first print line g code e commands to Z (extrude) and run the commands manually via slicer, extrusion most likby ggherbaz - Printing
When you load filament you do it in the air without back pressure, when you print against the bed the extruder will have back pressure. First check the idler tension, then check that there is no filament stock somewhere inside the extruder and if all ok check the wiring of the stepper as maybe a connector came loose or it's burnt.by ggherbaz - Printing
1 voltio es demaciado y puedes dañar los stepper drivers, la tarjeta mega con la ramps 1.4 estan diseñadas para impresoras 3d mas que para una CNC. Yo uso una tarjeta Uno y CNC shield. No te sabria decir si tienes un conflicto entre el firmware grbl 0.9 y la tarjeta mega, la unica manera que tienes es de comparar los pines de una tarjeta Uno contra la de la Mega, y cambiar los pines en pin.h delby ggherbaz - General
My thinking is that the g code generated is either corrupted or the wrong type, some boards like the old mighty board uses a different file format. Can you post a photo of the board, that will allow us to assist you further.by ggherbaz - Printing
Did you put it together or came assembled? How did you tested the ABL function? Are you trying to print from SD card or have you tried to print from the computer? Several things might be at fault here and you need to narrow it down, could be a bad SD card, a wrongly setup endstop, a faulty g code, etc. Connect your printer to a computer and check your printer endstop, movements and temperaturesby ggherbaz - Printing
Your best bet is a SCARA robot arm, some servos and a controller. You probably looking more into the 70 to 100 dollar range.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Are you setting the hotend to temperature? The extruder won't move if temperature is too low.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Even with ABS, with such long bridge it might be a good idea to use a cooling fan to cool as fast as possible the unsupported part.by ggherbaz - Printing
I read somewhere that through the barrel connector you need to supply 9 volts.by ggherbaz - General
Looks like ABS right? What size nozzle are you using? Those layers look quite thick.... For bringing you need to go way faster than 10 mm/sec, more in the 40 to 60 mm per sec with low temperatures, as you are going so slow and looking like on the top side temperature for the material the extruded material have no where to go but down.by ggherbaz - Printing
Don't own one but it is a simple inductive proximity sensor, the secret it's more in the bed than any other thing, if you pay attention the bed is marked as to where the sensor needs to be located for proper function, I assume the bed have some metal inserts that help the detection by the probe.by ggherbaz - Reprappers