Look at the scale, your printer might be trying to print something very small. Open the g code and look for the movements on X and Yby ggherbaz - Printing
Now that I saw the printer, I suspect it is your hotend PTFE liner the one causing the problems. Lift your Z axis all the way up, heat up your hotend and remove the filament and nozzle, once removed let it cool down and take a look at the white tube inside the stainless steel pipe, if deformed, burnt signs or melted filament in the threaded section of the heat block, replace it with a new one.by ggherbaz - Printing
Stay away from Acrylic, get an Aluminum frame. You can use the current Mega board and implement some of the features with it, assuming the upgrade package is mostly the bed and extruder and Z motors. I would recommend you to save some money and buy a p3steel frame and then add all the upgrade parts in it, you will end up with a much solid and reliable printer this way.by ggherbaz - Prusa i3 and variants
Cambia el valor de feedrate a unos 3000 en X y Y, pero lo mas probable es que los stepper drivers, las tarjetas que controlan los motores no esten bien ajustadas y el voltaje sea muy alto. Con un medidor de voltaje, coloca el cable negro a tierra y el rojo en el varistor o trim pot, el valor debe estar entre 0.4 y 0.6, pero para el valor exacto debes buscar en la informacion del motor cual es eby ggherbaz - General
Try Aliexpress if you don't mind the shipping time, there are several settings available.by ggherbaz - General
If Z offset is correct, next step is to check extruder gear and idler bearing. Be sure the gear is secure against stepper shaft and that the idler press firmly against the filament, once that's checked measure the stepper driver voltage (ground + trim pot) to be sure it matches the requirements of the stepper motor (ball park figure 0.4 ~ 0.6)by ggherbaz - Printing
Not close enough to the bed, keep calibrating. Get a filler gauge and without filament print something, stop the print as soon as it draws the first few lines and measure the distance between bed and nozzle, it should equal your layer height.by ggherbaz - Printing
I myself am considering the BBB and either the replicape or the cramps cape (leaning more to the last one) the only thing that is holding me for now is the firmware development on the BBB is still in dippers and if abandoned as printer controller will leave me with a pretty expensive paper holder.by ggherbaz - General
Basically from what I read, you need to use sailfish 7.5 with the enabled heated bed and the copy and paste the replicator2.json on the makerware folder and you should be able to use the replicator 2 profile and have heated bed functionality. Good luckby ggherbaz - Printing
Can you save the file to an SD card and print from there? Read Andy chen comments here, this might do it: You most likely need to update your firmware to sailfish and enable the heated bed option there, before doing what Andy mentioned but you can try it first and see. Hope it works. If not I will recommend you spend some money purchasing Simplify3d it comes with a replicator 2 with heatedby ggherbaz - Printing
Stay away from Acrylic frames and melzy boards, metal frames are much better. I've been looking the tevo tarantula for a while now and it offers a solid frame for a cheap price and the issues can be easily fix.by ggherbaz - General
Although the idea sounds good I'm going to be the devils advocate here: 24 volts dc at those currents used could be fatal, dc kills faster than ac. Lubrication of the rods will affect conductivity and proper protection will add weight.by ggherbaz - General
I think the problem is in the slicer, are you setting the temperature for the bed in it? Is the same temperature that you are using to preheating it? Read here: [3dprinting-blog.com]by ggherbaz - Printing
So many possibilities: PTFE liner damaged or pinched, idle bearing tension too high or too loose, extruder gear loose from stepper shaft, stepper driver damaged, stepper driver current set too low or too high, etc, etc. But the fact that it went crazy and you hit the reset might indicate a faulty main board. You have to take it all apart again and check each part for proper function and fit.by ggherbaz - Printing
For fast speeds higher temperatures. Increase hotend temperature by 5 degrees and try or keep same temperature but lower your speed.by ggherbaz - Printing
What's the margin of error? Are you doing several readings at same spot? My advice is to get rid of the voltage divide resistors and use a voltage regulator lm7805. Like I mentioned in another post, set your layer height and hit print without filament on the printer, once it start printing stop it and measure then use that value as your sensor offset.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
Unfortunately don't have a MAC to verify it, but I don't think will cause problems, usually any card at or under 4G formatted as fat 32 should work (no SDHC). Also check the wiring since it might affect the reader functions if it was plugged wrong.by ggherbaz - General
Before assuming a faulty reader be sure to test several SD cards, also either the size or format of the card can lead to problems. If after testing few cards is still showing same problem then contact your seller and ask for a replacement.by ggherbaz - General
Glad to know, just one more note: the adjustment might change depending on temperarure settings (ABS vs PLA) the PCB board will bow more at higher temperatures so be prepare to change offset values whe switching materials, but you can do it via slicer instead of firmware.by ggherbaz - Printing
Your problem isnt in the slicer but in your printer, most likely is the bowden system you are using. You need to increase the extruder torque, reduce the lenght of the tube and also probably use a tube with an smaller inner diameter, the less your filament can flex or snake inside the tube the better. You can try to increase the extruder feedrate to see if helps, also get rid of any wipe, restarby ggherbaz - Printing
No matter what your dealer said, you need to lower the temperature to probably 190 to 195 tops, those MK8 extruder/hotend assemblies dont have too much cooling capabilities, the melted filament is jamming on the cold side of the hotend. But the bigger issue you are facing is the teflon tubing, looks like is either too short or it is deformed at probably the side facing the nozzle. Take the nozzleby ggherbaz - Printing
Nothing out of the ordinary from what I can read. First is not the glass but rather the PCB board that bows under heat, also your rods might sag at the middle due to weight. But when you set your layer height 0.1, 0.2 etc it will be added to the existing 0.1 distance you have with g28. So a 0.3 layer height will translate to a 0.4 once you account for your initial offset. Best way to correct thby ggherbaz - Printing
Don't understand, it is always recommended to go lower for better adhesion, a 0.2 layer will have better adhesion than 0.25, you usually go lower or with higher extrusion rate but not higher layer specially not with a 0.4 nozzle.by ggherbaz - Printing
Well Z is probably the easiest to calibrate, the main thing is to pick a layer height that matches the size of the part to print and that your first layer is set to 100% height. For me a +- 0.05 margin is acceptable.by ggherbaz - Printing
Not as any as 50, with an extrusion set at 0.45 you do 0.9, 0.92, 0.94, 0.96, 0.98 and 1.0 then you repeat it with a 0.48 extrusion. Now if you have a good vernier caliper you can do line extrusion in both X and Y direction and measure them to find which one is giving you an error, so you can for example command a line extrusion from X20 to X80 and measure then repeat from Y20 to Y80 and measure,by ggherbaz - Printing
That e3d is a clone, and most likely don't follow the original design unless you purchased all the parts individually. The first problem that comes to my mind is that you have the wrong thermistor set in the firmware and not reaching the temperature or exceeding it. But my recommendation is to disassemble it completely and check each part for correct design and alignment, your nozzle might notby ggherbaz - Printing
Before changing anything, do a single line extrusion command, do it several times with different multipliers from .9 to 1.0 as you mentioning having a 0.4 nozzle do one with 0.45 and the multipliers from .9 to 1.0 in .02 increments, then do another one with 0.48 find which multiplier gives you the right measurement and if for both settings is the same. Once you find the correct numbers print agaiby ggherbaz - Printing
Few things that you can do: Lower your temperature: 190 - 195 for PLA. The printed fan duct looks quite small and don't think is pulling enough air volume. Slow your printing speed so the layers have time to cool before the next one is layered. Use random start point for the layers.by ggherbaz - Printing