Good to know. Now you need to built two more printers to use the other sensors ;-)by ggherbaz - Printing
This is a good video on how to test them.by ggherbaz - Printing
Like I said, i'm using capacitive ones, but it's just a matter of preferences and settings. I also used higher distance sensing 10mm instead of 4, this will be specially important if you are under powering the sensor at lower voltages sensing distance might be reduced rendering the sensor useless. To check the sensor with just a power source and a bulb, if the sensor lights up the bulb, the senby ggherbaz - Printing
Yes, that's an LM7805. In general any regulator to 5volts will work. Since amperage isn't an issue, you don't need to have a heatsink on it. Your pull ups are set right, but logics might need adjustment depending on type of sensor.by ggherbaz - Printing
Yes it will work, I prefer ceramic for it's safety. Slow air flow. At any dollar store you can get the foam boards. Get the white ones and just hot glue them to make a 3 side box.(foam works as added insulation)by ggherbaz - General
I used both Hitec and futaba. No difference in quality and reliability, your pickby ggherbaz - General
Extrusion width might be wrong, for 0.5mm nozzle should be close or at 0.6 Check also if you really have set your nozzle right size in your slicer.by ggherbaz - Printing
Do you have pull up resistors set in marlin?by ggherbaz - Printing
Using sensor 1 that is the correct type, connect brown to + blue to - and black to signal. Do M119 if shows triggered switch logic, do M119 and verify that is open, put a metal close to it and do M119 again should say triggered, if not, then you will have to used 12 volts and a voltage divider or LM7805 for signal to ramps. Now this might be an stupid question: what kind of heated bed you have?by ggherbaz - Printing
You got a clone, same as I did. Mine the aluminum piece wasn't drill all the way. To make it short, just go to e3d website and purchase a new SS barrel from them. Anyway all metal hotends will have issues with PLA, polishing and seasoning will help some.by ggherbaz - Printing
Also, you have two types NPN and PNP, need the check which one is the correct for rampsby ggherbaz - Printing
1 is normally close while 2 and 3 are normally open. Most likely for 2 and 3 you need to change the logic in marlin. Also my advise wire the sensors to your power supply instead of ramps and put an LM7805 from signal of the sensor to your ramps signal pin.by ggherbaz - Printing
One last thing, if you understand a little of thermal dynamics you will understand that it most be unidirectional, or by vectors. Don't put the bulbs facing each other, you need flow.by ggherbaz - General
Commercial printer used this principle to keep the built chamber at temperature. With an open frame most of the heat will be lost, but might be sufficient, you will have to play with the fan settings to find the one that works best for you.by ggherbaz - General
Either or, if you have a heater used it, the bulb is cheap and a ceramic socket too. You only put it facing the part you are printing within 6 inches. My printer is semi enclosed and the bulb is enough for the job, with an open frame you want to prevent from cold air to move around the printed part that's why a heater will be useful because will move hot air around the part.by ggherbaz - General
Ok, since it is an open frame, do the following experiment: 1.- use a ceramic space heater in front of printer an set it to at least 75 to 80 degrees and slow fan setting. 2.- use a 200 watts incandescent bulb and put it close to the part you are printing (this method is the one I used all the time) be sure that the socket for the bulb is ceramic. The heat from the bulb keeps the small area inby ggherbaz - General
Did this printer came assembled? Did you check marlin configuration? Looks like you have a lot of work to do calibrating your printer before you can print.by ggherbaz - Reprappers
The second problem that you have is that you are extruding too hot. Assuming that you were increasing temperature to overcome the jamming problems ?by ggherbaz - Printing
Yes, that is correct. Your PLA get heated too far up the hot end and cools there creating the jam.by ggherbaz - Printing
Looks like you have a e3d V5, it also looks like it's a clone. You will have issues with PLA if the above sentence is correct. You need to use active cooling of your hotend at all times and seasoning or polishing of the ss tube is needed.by ggherbaz - Printing
See attached picture, 110 all the time with 200 watts bulb.by ggherbaz - General
Which is your bed temperature and it's your printer open or enclosed? Inter layer adhesion has more to do with those two factors than hotend temperature (within ABS acceptable temperatures). PLA will be more solid but brittle. ABS will flex before it brakes.by ggherbaz - General
Can do it tomorrow, but sure. It might not be pretty though. I'm Lefty so I set my stuff opposite to the standard.by ggherbaz - Printing
Yes but capacitive instead of inductive, same stuff at the marlin level thoughby ggherbaz - Printing
Sorry, you got it right, I'm used to use max for X and Y and min only for Z.by ggherbaz - Printing
Probably this link will explain that part better than I can do.by ggherbaz - Printing
If any of your switches are connected to min. You need to delete the // for minimum endstops like 3dkarma mentioned.by ggherbaz - Printing
The first part, the bold ones indicate that you set the endstops pull up for all endstops, that is right as long as you have mechanical switches or any switch that will allow voltage to ground (some switches already has them)and they are set so you don't create a short circuit. the second part, the one with yellow letters is the one that controls the logic (NC or NO). If you want to understand itby ggherbaz - Printing
T-glase does that, specially if you followed the website settings to over extrude and big layer hight. Need to print fast and at higher temperature. (It's cooling to fast)by ggherbaz - Printing
Chech your proximity switch, it is a NO or NC? Depending on type you would have to invert the logic, they need to have the pull up resistors since they throw voltage to ground.by ggherbaz - Printing