A bit of background ... I'd been using Marlin 1.1.x for some time quite happily on an i3 style printer with an Arduino Mega/ Ramps 1.4 combo. This year I decided to update some of the printed parts add a BLTouch and replace the Wade extruder with a Titan. I'd tried Marlin 2.0 previously but downgraded again as I could never get the prints as good as with 1.1.9. I thought with my hardware upgby BarneyG - Firmware - Marlin
looks like at least someone else has seen the same issue : Unfortunately it is marked as closed ... I've raised it again.by BarneyG - General Mendel Topics
It is already going very slow and the fan is active ... the thing is the bed is physically moving to different y locations on higher levels despite the code telling it to go to the same place. I've since tried a hollow cube with 2 shells and it also doesn't lean like the one with infill ... so the problem only seems to exist on the single shell hollow cube.by BarneyG - General Mendel Topics
I have a Prusa i3 and after some jamming on my hot end caused by me trying to print 0.4mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle DOH!!! I decided to print out a hollow 20mm cube with 1 perimeter, no infill and no top to calibrate the extrusion multiplier - something I'd never done before. The resulting print was a nice hollow cube with the top, bottom and sides (on the x-axis) perfectly parallel but leaninby BarneyG - General Mendel Topics
I've rebuilt my Prusa i3 recently this entailed making some config changes as the x endstop moved from a Min to a Max. At the same time I downloaded the latest version of Marlin for my Ramps 1.4 board. I've been printing off a 100x100x1mm square (but only doing the first layer) in order to get the z axis height right and the bed levelled ... I've been doing this from an SD card attached to a diby BarneyG - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Ooooh ... good idea ... a plug that you can insert and glue into place would be a good idea - thanks.by BarneyG - General Mendel Topics
I've printed out some replacement X-Axis Motor and Idler end pieces but the smooth rods slide into them quite easily not to the extent that they wobble but they pull out an push in with very little force ... while they are quite tight in the the parts I'm replacing and to insert or remove them while I can just pull or push using a twisting motion makes it much easier - if this makes sense ? Soby BarneyG - General Mendel Topics
Cura was giving me similar problems in different places to Slic3r. I've tried KissSlicer now and had 2 successful prints out of 2 attempts. I'm not quite as happy with the finish of what it produces at present though ... much more stringing between parts and on one print it kinda looks like the infill goes outside the perimeter if you know what I mean. And thanks to documentation on how to usby BarneyG - Printing
OK so back to square one ... got one good print out of it and since then every other part I've tried has resulted in the same basic behaviour ... it gets to a specific part of the print and then you can hear the stutter, actually it is more of a clunk kind of sound ... I've tried slowing everything down to 30 or 40mm/s and reducing the default acceleration down to 100 in config.h and still the saby BarneyG - Printing
I'll try with a lower jerk setting as mine is set at the default of 20. I'm using the latest version of Slic3r and Marlin downloaded from Github on the 14th of Decemnber. I have made some progress though ... I sliced the part using Cura with as close to the same settings I've been using in Slic3r as I could and while I don't want to temp fate the print has so far progressed far beyond where I wby BarneyG - Printing
ok so slower travel didn't help ... I had a brainwave ... I rotated the object 90 degrees in slic3r before generating the gcode so the long travel was on the Y-Axis rather than the X-Axis ... so using a different stepper driver and motor and different mechanical axis so in theory if it is a mechanical problem then I'd either see a shift to the left as per every other print or no shift at all sincby BarneyG - Printing
My first job since building my Prusa i3 has been to print replacement parts for my Prusa i3 as I'm not especially happy with the quality of the ones I purchased but I'm having issues with the X-Axis Motor mount - I'm using the Rework version. At exactly the same point in the print 1 hour 40 ish minutes the last 4 times I've tried to print it it has skipped off to the right by a couple of mm. Oby BarneyG - Printing
I realize now this is actually in the wrong place ... but just to put closure on this I got a replacement hobbed bolt with a much more pronounced groove and teeth that are more grid like rather than just lines across the bolt and things are much improved.by BarneyG - Printing
Thanks ... it seemed sensible the motor is a 68oz-inch holding torque so it seems daft that it should have trouble stepping unless the filament is being held too tightly but if the pressure is released the filament just gets stripped. Another thing crossed my mind is about the line up between the top of the J-Head and the hole in the Wades ... when I feed in the filament I have to have sharpenedby BarneyG - Printing
I'm tearing my hair out here. I've just built a prusa i3 and I'm using a wades style extruder with a j-head 0.4mm hotend trying to print 0.2 mm layers I've got the temp set to 230 and so far I'm having to set my max feed speed to 1mm/s or I'm getting skipping ... if I loosen off the idler then I can increase the feed rate but the hobbed bolt just cheese grates the filament. I'm wondering if theby BarneyG - Printing
Bah ... ignore me ... I decided to trace the connection to the buzzer to ensure it wasn't connecting to a pin that the firmware was expecting to be connected to something else ... there was a transistor in the line from the buzzer ... it had been bent over in the post and all 3 legs were touching. I've carefully bent them apart again and I was rewarded with silenceby BarneyG - RAMPS Electronics
I'm having a little difficulty setting up my RAMPS board with an LCD/SD card reader board. I got a bundle off of an ebay seller and the description and linked docs outlined the G3D controller and initially while the screen was displaying the appropriate stuff the encoder wasn't working correctly and the buzzer was on perminantly ... after some investigation I actually believe it is a RepRapDiscby BarneyG - RAMPS Electronics