Thank you, that should point me in the right direction. About the heater runaway issue: As I'm a designer of automotive safety-critical hardware, I already thought about increasing the safety of RAMPS electronics. As the cheapest solution, I'd just take an additional Arduini mini or nano board, and use it as temperature limiter and intelligent watchdog.by uhrheber - RAMPS Electronics
Hi. I have an Arduini Due and a RAMPS-FD board. Also stepper modules with DRV8825. I want to convert a Makerbot clone (Weistek WT150) to something that can read gcode and not only s3g. As the printer shows nasty resonant noise when printing fast, I want to use 1/32 microsteps to make it quieter. Also I want to ad automatic print bed levelling using a proximity sensor. I'm not a noob when it comby uhrheber - RAMPS Electronics
Hi. I had the idea to add a "silent mode" to OctoPrint. Meaning, an option to reduce the printing speed on demand, while printing, to reduce the noise from the printer. (In case a print once again takes somewhat longer than planned, and your husband/wife/parent/child/sibling/roommate wants to sleep) I thought of writing a plugin, that will parse the gcode, and reduce all speeds. But then I thougby uhrheber - Slic3r
Cliff, is the source file for the Z-carriage available? I got hold of an Igus anti-backlash nut, that I want to integrate. Also, I'd like to integrate the bronze bushings directly, without having to print lm10 adapters.by uhrheber - Look what I made!
Why does everybody draw the Igus bushings with 3 outer rims? The ones I know have 2 grooves instead, so they can be fastened with clips:by uhrheber - Look what I made!
The thing is, I'm not happy with the standard threaded rods and nuts, so I bought one of the popular trapezoidal lead screws with copper nut from Aliexpress. It runs smoothly, but has a high backlash. I think that these nuts are meant to be pressed in a precise hole, so their diameter shrinks and the backlash reduces. It seems to be also possible to tilt the nut, by putting washers below the moby uhrheber - Look what I made!
Ramps-FD shields aren't that expensive anymore, neither are Arduino Due boards. And if you want to have it even cheaper, it's not that complicated to convert a Ramps shield to 3.3V.by uhrheber - Reprappers
I like the design of the Funbot pro, it's straightforward and self-explanatory. But: On one hand I like the easy to mount edge connectors, they seem to make the building of the box a piece of cake, but on the other hand they prevent you from closing the housing completely. And when I'm already building a cube, why not giving it a lid and a plexiglass door? About the threaded rods that you talkeby uhrheber - Look what I made!
Which ones did you use? And how did you fit them? BTW: I just stumbled upon this thing, and it reminded me of the Funbot. I wonder if it is any good. The price is interesting: No, I won't buy one, I'm just curious. I like the handle at the top, but I have no idea where they'll put the filament spool.by uhrheber - Look what I made!
But which one of the Igus? funbot_id10_igus_bushing_v2.stl or funbot_id10_5_igus_bushing_v2.stl ? Off the funbot_wingedbush_eu_10.stl I have already printed several, but all of them are a bit too tight, so I have to play with the size. They move smoothly once in motion, but the static friction is too high. I printed one in Nylon, and I guess that it will outlive me, but it is too flexible to sby uhrheber - Look what I made!
Cliff, I've now printed nearly all parts, but I'm unsure what bushings to print. You have so many on thingiverse. So, which one is the best? I'm using 10mm chrome plated aluminium rods (polished). And can I use them also for the Z carriage? Thanksby uhrheber - Look what I made!
For $50 I can get a Raspberry Pi 2, or an Odroid C1, and a 3.5" touch TFT. Much better hardware for octoprint than an A20 box. Banana Pi is a somewhat better choice.by uhrheber - Look what I made!
I can hear the sound of cracking plastic in the back of my head. Kinda creepy.by uhrheber - Smart_Rap
I just stumbled upon this board on the TI website, and asked myself whether somebody is already using it. So I found this post. Obviously you can't buy this board anywhere, and I also don't see much of an advantage over an Arduino Due or STM32 based setup. How does it run?by uhrheber - Repetier
[3druck.com] Hoffentlich auch preiswertes Filament, ich hab einen Hornbach bei der Arbeit gleich um die Ecke, dann kann ich mein Filament in Zukunft da kaufen.by uhrheber - Offtopic
Did anybody ever thought of adding capacitors at the motor voltage inputs of the driver modules? The capacitors that are already on the boards look very small to me, and I bet that they aren't low ESR types. The more steps per revolution you make, the higher the pulse frequency gets, and the higher the losses in the capacitors will be. Not only will the aluminium capacitors degrade faster becausby uhrheber - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Ah, ok. Clever to use silicone tubing. Many thanks for the photo.by uhrheber - Smart_Rap
p.s., how are the adjustment screws mounted? Head of the screw on top, then the spring, then the aluminium plate with threads? Or the other way around? Or do you use threaded bolts in between? Maybe a detailed picture of one screw would be nice.by uhrheber - Smart_Rap
One additional question: What dimensions did you use for the base plate? The same ones (280x240mm) that Cliff used? Or bigger, because of the MK2 heatbed?by uhrheber - Smart_Rap
Maybe I'm dumb, but I can't find the picture you're talking about. Would you be so kind to post a direct link? Thank you.by uhrheber - Look what I made!
Ok, found a solution. It's actually possible to drill a M3 thread into an existing 4-40 one. So I converted two of the stepper's threads to M3, and can now use as long screws as I want.by uhrheber - Smart_Rap
Thanks, it should indeed. I ordered two of the pre-drilled bed plates from Aliexpress (as two gave a better price and I'm already planning the next printer, lol), and one MK3 aluminium heatbed. But I have another question: How do you mount the steppers? It seems that it is planned to use two of the stepper's own screws each, but the screws from my steppers come loose already when I unscrew themby uhrheber - Smart_Rap
About the MK3 heatbed: What do I have to adjust to use it? Do I need longer rods for the X and Y axis? How exactly do you mount it?by uhrheber - Smart_Rap
Thank you, madmike8. I've started printing out the parts (starting with the y-base), and they came out nice so far. In fact, I need a bigger printer, so I'll use the Funbot to learn, and then give it to my son. Then I'll build a big oneby uhrheber - Look what I made!
I'm not familiar with bowden extruders, so I'll rather start with a classical one. But I'll definitely try that later. Thanks for being patient with a noob :-)by uhrheber - Look what I made!
I'm just in the process of ordering an extruder, and I'm thinking of buying this one: As the seller offers a free spare nozzle, would it make sense to order a smaller one, like 0.2 or 0.3mm? Is the printer's resolution fine enough to print in 0.1mm layer height?by uhrheber - Look what I made!
QuoteCliff MellangÄrd Wath slicer do you use ??? I'm currently forced to use Skeinforge, because it's the only slicer that works with my printer (Weistek WT150) out of the box. As I just started 3D printing, I don't have enough knowledge (yet) to get other slicers to work. That's one of the reasons why I want to build a Funbot, to get the knowledge. Once I have it running, I'll maybe build a bigby uhrheber - Look what I made!
Hi. What material and what settings do you guys use to print the parts for the funbot? I thought I'd start with PLA, 50% infill and 2 shells. Anything wrong with that? Thanks in advance.by uhrheber - Look what I made!