@BotMill: you need to address customer ill will before this kind of announcement will be taken seriously. Who cares that the boat's fast if it appears to be sinking?by Pointedstick - General
OKKO/iRapid, I understand your dismay at our reaction, but understand what happened here. This is a community that does not use copyrights or patents to constrain our innovations because we believe they hinder freedom and innovation for the benefit of lawyers, governments, and their favored clients. Copyrights and patents are threats to have a government use force to financially or physically harby Pointedstick - General
jsadusk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I went back to Sprinter afterward and no prints > have had any problems. What appears to be > happening with Marlin is that the perimiter > threads aren't adhering to the lower layer, and > then when they cool they contract inward and make > a straight string across the gap. This only > happens on concby Pointedstick - General
Not really, unless the hobbing is literally touching the threading or the head. You can use washers to make the hobbed part of the bolt get in the right place.by Pointedstick - General
cloud.netfabb.com will clean up the model and make it slic3 much faster.by Pointedstick - Slic3r
What gcode generator are you using? Slic3r doesn't do that. With other generators, you have to adjust several parameters if you want to change the speed or layer height and still get proper prints.by Pointedstick - Printing
220º is pretty hot for PLA. Unless you have a fan pointed at the print, the layers aren't going to cool properly. It also looks like your retraction settings aren't aggressive enough, which is contributing to the stringing. RichRap's advice is good. I'd start again with a slow speed (30 mm/sec), a normal temperature (185º), and RichRap's retraction settings and try again. Then increase the speedby Pointedstick - Printing
Use Slic3r. It produces parts with near-perfect dimensional accuracy. www.slic3r.orgby Pointedstick - Printing
Hmm, I've printed dozens of that idler with no problems using Slic3r.by Pointedstick - Slic3r
This version is truly awesome. Here are some MendelMax parts I printed with it:by Pointedstick - Slic3r
If the remaining filament is still touching the hobbed bolt, just heat up the extruder and reverse the filament until you can remove it. If not, heat up the hot end, insert some more filament, and engage it in the teeth of the hobbed bolt. Then advance it using pronterface so that it pushes down the old filament into the hot end and out the nozzle.by Pointedstick - General
Mechanical switch endstops attached with hot glue. Pro tip: don't use cyanoacrylate superglue!by Pointedstick - General
Silver PLA is pretty stunning, and very forgiving to quality issues and black PLA has a really beautiful lustre to it. Those are definitely my favorite colors.by Pointedstick - General
My Ultimachine RAMPS 1.4 has a four-pin connector that looks like it would fit a Molex cable; is this a legit way to power the board? Just want to make sure before I plug something in that's likely to make the magic smoke escape.by Pointedstick - RAMPS Electronics
Try Slic3r. It works out of the box and you'll get good prints in no time.by Pointedstick - General
I'd stick to Sprinter if it works. When you're ready for a firmware challenge, upgrade to Marlin, which is packed full of features that most other firmwares don't have such as acceleration planning that will enable you to print faster and wind up with better quality.by Pointedstick - General
Also, if you're not using Marlin firmware, that will make your corners look much nicer too. Sprinter has bad blobbing problems.by Pointedstick - General
Makerbot products do NOT have the best quality. Generally speaking, all these machines can achieve great results, but the best ones unquestionably go to Ultimaker users. Check this stuff out: http://davedurant.wordpress.com/2011/10/12/ultimaker-faq-but-what-about-the-quality-of-prints/ You can pick of an Ultimaker for the price of a Replicator. But t sounds like you want a Magergear Mosaic. It'sby Pointedstick - General
You should start using Slic3r www.slic3r.orgby Pointedstick - General
Time to move to Slic3r! slic3r.orgby Pointedstick - General
windcatcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks Grog, > > Do you happen to know anything about feed rates? > > I tried printing with PLA last night but my > extruder just plugged right up. > I am using Wades geared extruder and the hobbed > bolt from Eckertech. > > Using pronterface and Sprinter but I am not sure > wher to seby Pointedstick - General
Yup, time to move to Marlin. With Sprinter, you'll see corners like that unless you print perimeters at 25 mm/sec or slower. With Marlin, you can go much, much faster and still see better quality.by Pointedstick - Printing
Why not fork Marlin instead and then contribute your changes back to the main firmware? There are already a bunch of good firmwares out there, and improving something that's already widely-used will probably result in more adoption than creating yet another fork that few will ever hear about.by Pointedstick - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Buy all the parts locally > > What's the advantage of buying locally? Theoretically, you could save on shipping. But you might lose out with sales taxes and higher prices. I've found that it's better to buy from as few places as possible once you've found good prices so you can minimize shipping costs.by Pointedstick - General
Nudel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bridges is hard to detect I hear. As far as I know > in skeinforge a bridge layer is detected if any > part of the current layer has a overhang of over > 45 degrees compared to previous layer, if that > makes any sense. > > Slic3r does this better (in most cases), as it > only fills in the area where tby Pointedstick - General
Cheap, pre-assembled, a large build area, and reliable; pick two. :p A Solidoodle is cheap and pre-assembled, but has a small build area and its reliability is unknown. A Mosaic can be bought pre-assembled and it's reliable, but it won't be cheap and it has a small build area. An Ultimaker has a big build area and it's reliable, but you need to build it yourself and it's expensive. A RepRap is cby Pointedstick - General
fks Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Had the same problem. For me the cause was > pronterface. With high detail models the update of > the gcode-viewer window during print was to to cpu > intensive so the notebook was unable to send data > fast enough. > > I then patched pronterface to not update the view > during print (didn't need that anby Pointedstick - General
Looks like your e_steps value for the Z axis is too low. If you're using standard 1.25 pitch threaded rod, 2560 is a good starting value.by Pointedstick - Printing
Sounds like it's time to upgrade the electronics. If you're not using RAMPS electronics and Marlin firmware, you don't know what you're missing!by Pointedstick - Slic3r
DeuxVis Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Kabory Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > > > > The first layer is laid down perfectly on the > > bed. > > Then is moves up to the second, speeds up, and > > rips the first layer off. > > > > Have you verified the calibration of yoby Pointedstick - Printing