Are your pololus hot? If you can't touch them, they're too hot. When they get too hot, they go into a self-protect mode that looks just like skipped steps. For me, at least, this is the problem 95 times out of 100. If (when?) you find that they are, adjust your trimpots counter-clockwise to reduce the power/heat they take on.by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Just a quick update over here. A ferrite choke on its own was not enough to end my problem with my printer freezing. But a new, shorter cable, onto which I placed the choke for good measure, has now rectified the problem. I can shred documents to my heart's content while printing is going on. Thanks for the suggestion, jbernadris!by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Hi Crux. It's obvious from the photos that you're trying to print a whistle with support enabled. If you want a functional whistle, you'll have to turn support off. You'll also need to ensure that bridging works for you. In other words, you're probably best off using something like a 20mm box for your initial prints, and coming back to your whistle later. One thing you need to work out is gettiby Karmavore - General
Hello, all. I'm printing ABS on Kapton on Glass on a Heated Bed. I've done enough with my printer that I've needed to replace the kapton a couple times now, and I've made the following observations about it. I'm curious if others have noticed the same things, and if they have any suggestions about steps I can take to mitigate frustrations. 1) When I first put the Kapton on, and after cleaning iby Karmavore - General
Hold all your calls, folks, we have a winner! I got the latest version of the Marlin firmware. No change. I got the latest version of printrun. Fixed! So the problem was somewhere in old printrun or some combination of old printrun and old Marlin. And I very much like how this new version of Pronterface is showing me a much smarter "time until finish" number. Thanks Masnachu, for your keen eyeby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
I'd be happy to print out some parts for you, if shipping from the US works. I'm most familiar with i2, as it is what I have, but I'm sure I could do i3 if you like. I can do ABS, which is important for the extruder body, with PLA gears. $49 plus shipping seems fair for the i2 printed parts. I'd have to check for i3. PM me.by Karmavore - Reprappers
Masnachu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > your getting "Setting bed temperature to 95.000000 > degrees Celsius. " just before the mintemp error, > is that being set in your firmware ? or from > somewhere else ? The 95 degrees is what I'm setting the bed to in Pronterface, and then hitting the "Set" button. It is not coded into the firmware. One thingby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
torbenberger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > what seemd to solve my problem: adding another 5% > to fillament width. before i had 3.0mm now i have > 3.15mm and everything seems to work fine, just > printing :-) Great! You'll find that different rolls of filament come in slightly different sizes, and you'll want to modify that setting based on measureby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Masnachu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How are you setting the heatbed preheat ? through > the pronterface interface (bottons & input box) or > directly with M codes? Through the pronterface interface. (And within gcode created by Slic3r, of course.) I know I set it a couple times with M codes typed into Pronterface, but that was a while ago and Iby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks, Masnachu. That sounds like a promising lead. I'll peek inside, and see what I have. None of this, though, explains why I get the error when I try to turn on the heated bed when the extruder is off, and why I don't get the error when the extruder is on. To my mind, if the problem was with Marlin defaults, everybody would have this problem. The answer is going to have to explain why I'm soby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
That's a thought. Since I'm not worried about the heated bed getting too hot (at least in the same way that a too-hot extruder ruins itself) I might try just disabling the heated bed MINTEMP entirely.by Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks, jbernardis. I occasionally have my printer stop for other obvious USB-related reasons, and I don't have the EE experience to know what to do about it. I know it's a USB issue because I can no longer disconnect/connect to my printer, and the python errors make it clear why. It works again if I unplug the USB for 10 seconds, and then put it back. With your help and a quick couple of web seaby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
rhmorrison Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Can we assume that you uploaded the firmware after > changing the MINTEMP defines? Yup. It's been compiled and uploaded numerous times for various tweaks and changes I've made. (New extruder gear ratios, new belt sizes, etc.) Given a choice, I'd opt for an easy answer with my failures at the center of it. But I'm lby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
Hello Everyone. I've got a v2 Mendel with RAMPS1.4 on an Arduino Mega with Marlin loaded on it. I've got what might be termed a mild annoyance, but I want to check and see if this might be a sign of something bad. When I go to pre-heat my printer's bed with pronterface/printrun, it will not work unless I am also heating my print head. Here is exactly what I see in the pronterface output window:by Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics
vegasloki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I thought that springs on the bed were deprecated > when the designs went from a double bed to a > single bed (plus heated bed. I've landed the > nozzle on the glass a few times fairly violently > but have yet to break a piece as the heat bed and > glass do flex somewhat. Agreed. I'm much happier with mby Karmavore - General
This is going to sound crazy, but it's repeatable. I've got a paper shredder plugged into an outlet on the same circuit into which my RepRap's ATX power supply is plugged. If I use the shredder during a print, the print immediately hangs and does not restart.by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
The plate is expecting you to use 3 linear bearings, two on one side, one on the other. In this case, less is more because... * Three linear bearings means less friction in your y-movement. * It's easier to calibrate three points into a flat plane than four. * Spare linear bearing. (Use the smoothest bearings, and don't use the others.) I went from the Wiki's two-plate solution to a single plateby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Glad to hear things are improved. As I understand it, if you've got a .5 nozzle, you really won't be able to effectively print with layer heights more than .4 or so. The extrudate needs to be "smooshed" a little to bind well. While you say that you've confirmed that your z-axis moves by the proper amount, I wonder if you are nonetheless losing z-steps. I sometimes find that my printer behaves dby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Shot in the dark here, nicolinux: Is your extruder block made out of PLA? Is your hotend set directly into it? When I first started printing with my reprap, I could answer yes to both the above questions, and it caused me continual grief. As the hotend would get and stay warm, it would ever-so-slightly begin to melt the extruder block. The mounting point on the block would begin to sag down (mayby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
I have to admit, this does not sound good. I took a shot in the dark with a simple thing that might have been overlooked given a recent firmware change regarding endstops, and it now appears I'm out of my depth. My next troubleshooting steps might be: 1) Posting in a electronics forum in the hopes of getting someone better than karmavore to help 2) Checking voltages on your stepper drivers (someby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
When I first turn my reprap on, it sometimes thinks it is beyond the software-enabled max endstop (or just doesn't know where it is, I'm not sure), which freezes it. Homing the axes solves this. Does homing work?by Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
This is probably your x (or y, can't tell from photos) axis losing steps. Adjust the trimpot on the axis controller, and see if that improves things. If your controller is too hot to touch and the axis has jerky movement, go counter-clockwise (less power). If it seems fine, but loses steps, go clockwise, and make sure your controller doesn't overheat with the extra power it has. You've likely goby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
I've never dealt with nautral PLA, but different filaments needs different temperatures. The problem you describe and conclusion you reach (i.e. too hot) sound completely plausible to me. Find the lowest temperature at which you can extrude filament at a sufficient rate, and try a print with that. And since different people will have different hot ends and different conductivities to different thby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
OK, now I *really* know what was wrong. My hinge on the Greg's Wade Reloaded just failed. I can only assume that it was on the verge of failure when I started noticing that I wasn't getting the extrusion I wanted. The hinge wasn't holding tight against the hobbed bolt, and the consequence was visible in my print. It's nice to know that I'm not going crazy, even if I did spend a long time barkinby Karmavore - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks, bigfilsing and Traumflug. I'm confident that the new settings are being used, fractions and all, because the size of my post-GT2 parts are exactly the same as the pre-GT2 parts. If not, I'd expect that the part would be larger in the x and y directions by a factor of 80.192/64. My E steps/mm is exactly (3200*(47/9))/(3.1415926535*6.86), which is about 775. I would need to try to extrudeby Karmavore - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Hello all. Something is happening with my Reprap, and I can't explain it. Can you? The specs: Mendel i2 with Ramps 1.4 running Marlin. The background: I used Slic3r to get gcode that produced this cool gear bearing. (Thing 53451.) Slic3r produced gcode that delivered a high quality print in about 125 minutes. Then, I replaced my printed pulleys and T5 belts with machined pulleys and GT2 belts.by Karmavore - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I don't think you need a whole new j-head, but you will need a new nozzle holder, which is $20 from the usual source. If you're going to print with ABS, you should go with a PEEK nozzle holder, which has the higher melting point you'll need. I did this once on a PEEK nozzle holder when my thermistor came out of its hole. I was still getting a temperature reading, but it didn't reflect the trueby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
Hello all, I've been getting great quality prints from my reprap using the PLA T5 pulleys I originally bought from a woman from these forums. I'm very happy. If you like, you can take a look over at my Google+ page. But at the behest of many on these forums, I'm upgrading to machined pulleys and GT2 belts. I don't really know what I should expect to improve. I'd like to print out the same objeby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
vegasloki Wrote: "Print the extruder from ABS or buy an ABS extruder. My experience has been that printing for longer periods the PLA does become soft and will deform. I melted the bottom of my first extruder." Seconded. I have a J-Head placed directly into a self-printed Greg's Wade's Hinged, and I use four 15mm machine screws to hold the J-Head in place. Works great. Thankfully, I was ableby Karmavore - General Mendel Topics
lazzymonk Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I had to put a small capacitor across my fan > terminals to get my fans working. Otherwise they > just hum unless at full power This sounds very good, and like it might even apply to me (because my fan doesn't go if I don't give it enough S???), but I don't know enough about electronics to figure out how I mightby Karmavore - RAMPS Electronics