Well you can look in the firmware for the supported resistance, 100k is very common, works well and is pretty easy to find. If you can't get 100k, there are many other supported ones and you can also generate your own look-up table if needed. I bought a 100 pack of axial ones off ebay and they seem to work fine but I also have enough hotend kits that I never really have to use them. Don't worrby tjb1 - Reprappers
Quoteishe7ata Hey there, So two quick questions: My steppers came naked at the end with no sockets whatsoever. So I wanted to install those. Instead I was recommended to use these www.dx.com/p/1-pin-dupont-wire-connector-cables-40-pcs-20cm-151537#.VPcFNvmUe2U Which I already have now. Can I strip those off and solder one to each stepper wire and then insert them in RAMPS? Essentially will theyby tjb1 - Reprappers
I've seen the other post about this and I have tried "MEK Substitute" and it will not do anything to any of the PLA I have. Same exact container as pictured and I can store the stuff in my prints.by tjb1 - General
Quoteroli I managed to partially solve the problem. Basically - I had to lover the print temperature. I used 220°C before to print ABS. Lowering the temperature to 195°C has greatly improved the final look of the print. Still not as good as that original print though. You can still see some small "sine waves" on the actual surface but it isn't as bad as before. I am thinking that the problem isby tjb1 - Prusa i3 and variants
You make an account and edit it yourself.by tjb1 - General
Quotejaguarking11 Quotetjb1 Quotejaguarking11 The answer is simple honestly. Certain industries adapted one system globaly. metric = just about every machined or produced article. Even cars built in the US use metric threads/bolts/nuts. Standard = tiles, plumbing, and certain agricultural equipment. The world is a mishmosh. At least we are down to small variations that are at least defined.by tjb1 - General
Quotejaguarking11 The answer is simple honestly. Certain industries adapted one system globaly. metric = just about every machined or produced article. Even cars built in the US use metric threads/bolts/nuts. Standard = tiles, plumbing, and certain agricultural equipment. The world is a mishmosh. At least we are down to small variations that are at least defined. Go look at mpg on a vehicleby tjb1 - General
Quotetouchthebitum Hello! I found the problem, the firmware 1.4 is the problem, I turned back on the 1.3.1 and the problem solved..... Likely a configuration issue on your part, really doubt the firmware was the issue.by tjb1 - Reprappers
QuoteWallyCloud They are calculated and they have worked for the last 3 years 40, 40, 3333.92. I have changed currents, not change in stretching. See my comment before about what I just found out about the Z, this is not a typical issue, otherwise I would of found it. Well your title and in your post multiple times says you are changing E steps for Y and Z, are you changing them or leaving theby tjb1 - General
Calculate steps for your belt/pulley setup and enter them, you should not be calibrating the axis based on results. If the part prints square(perpendicular corners) but not to size, you will need to look at slicer settings, motor current settings and any interference in the movement of the axis.3by tjb1 - General
I use 5 gallon buckets with Gamma Seal lids (Link) which can be purchased at Lowes/Home Depot under alternative names and Amazon/U-Line and I place Eva-Dry 333 (Link) rechargeable dessicant packs in each bucket. The dessicant packs can be bought at the same places mentioned before. Expect to have around $30 per setup for the bucket, lid, and dessicant pack. Edit: I think I can only get aroundby tjb1 - General
QuoteAno Heay, yeah, everything here, multimeter, soldering iron, oszilloskop, tool kit. I got my first print running, went pretty good so far. But the fan was on all the time. What I would like is, the fan to be active while the preheating begins until after the print, when the hotend is cooled down to about 45°C. So that it stops then to not always be that loud. Did my second print and in factby tjb1 - Reprappers
Quotejonkeegan I'm using Wade's Accessible Extruder, using standard NEMA 17 motors. Here's my Marlin config file: I used prusa's calculator to get the extruder settings, but possible i need to re-do these. I think these are the key lines: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 3200/1.25,1400} // new settings for prusa it2 #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 5, 25} // (by tjb1 - Reprappers
Here is mine, feels ok but I am not ready to tear printer apart yet to test it.by tjb1 - General
QuoteTech-Masterz My printer is the mini kossel, and now its dipping on opposite side of the print bed but the middle is just fine. Know of any solutions? Read up...by tjb1 - General
Send M119 when printer is not touching any endstops, all should be LOW or off. If any are high, you need to invert logic of endstop in firmware. Also you are using Repetier Host and Marlin firmware according to your pictures. There is also Repetier Firmware but I doubt you have it.by tjb1 - Reprappers
What extruder setup do you have? If it's geared, what gearing.by tjb1 - Reprappers
I just modeled up some "DIY" Astrosyns that use mounts in your material choice and Ninjaflex(or other flexible material) glued in the center. I made these for NEMA17 motors but fairly simple to resize it for 23s if it works out, should also be able to adjust the dampening with material/perimeters/infill. Will test tonight and upload to Thingiverse and Youmagine.by tjb1 - General
QuoteTech-Masterz I have the ramps 1.3 though.by tjb1 - General
QuoteTech-Masterz so, how would i do that??? What about the other issue? The diode is under the X axis driver, it should be under the Ramps 1.4 wiki page. Without more information on your other issue, I can not help you.by tjb1 - General
If you search the wiki or even Google, you will find many build instructions and even videos. i3 is widely used so there is a lot of information on it. As for the power cord, you will need to be more descriptive...ATX supplies will use an IEC C14 style connector. The switching supplies like the ones sold as "LED power supply" on ebay need to be hard wired, these plugs can be found at most bigby tjb1 - General
QuoteTech-Masterz Ok, so i ended up geting a 15amp power supply. Now pretty much everything is in working order. However, I have the following problems. 1. My autoleveler probe will not extend to the close enough to the belt to deploy it's self. 2. My smart lcd screen will not light up by just having my power cord pluged in. Please help. You need a diode on the board for the LCD to receive pby tjb1 - General
Quotevagran Which side do you mean? Like in the original head design? Then, as I said, the head is unable to heat more than 150C because of heat leak through the fan mounting plate. However, I think, it is possible not to screw the plate to the heating block and insert some heat insulation between the plate and the heating block. But I will firstly try to make a fan duct from metal sheet - it isby tjb1 - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier I appreciate you're a happy user, I've finaly met 1 enthusiast user. Today I know better people with issues with that hose that cannot deliver constant pressure, especialy with heat issues. The specifications will be significantly different in Alaska or California, it's easy to understand if you try. Both changed for springs. Today you can find any linear spring you like through thby tjb1 - Reprappers
QuoteZavashier +1 for a good geared extruder like the white one posted above. Quotetanner331I currently use an AIRTRIPPER BOWDEN EXTRUDER V3 extruder, a Mk8 drive gear, and a E3D v6 hotend. You mean that extruder with a piece of hose instead of inexpensive spings ? Well, if we're talking about the same extruder, I'm not surprized at all. The hose is actually going to give you more pressure in moby tjb1 - Reprappers
Quotedougal1957 Quotetjb1 Quotetanner331 I use both ABS and PLA This problem occurs more with PLA but it also occurs with the ABS. I'd say your main problem is the E3D, it's terrible with PLA and likely jamming and causing the extruder to strip the filament. Sorry but I would have to disagree re the E3D being bad with PLA as long as it is an original one that is (The clones may be a different tby tjb1 - Reprappers
Quotetanner331 I use both ABS and PLA This problem occurs more with PLA but it also occurs with the ABS. I'd say your main problem is the E3D, it's terrible with PLA and likely jamming and causing the extruder to strip the filament.by tjb1 - Reprappers
Quotetanner331 Hi I have a Reprap Rostock 3d printer and I keep having issues with the extruder slipping on the filament, this then causes the filament to stop feeding. I am wondering if there is a different extruder I can use to prevent this problem. The extruder has to have a bowden tube mount because the design of the Rostock 3d printer only allows for a bowden mount. I currently use an AIRTRIby tjb1 - Reprappers
QuoteMindRealm The heater cartridge gets plenty hot enough to heat the aluminum block without needing to worry about maximizing the surface area the is in contact with the block. If it would make you feel better you can prep the block with heart sink compound before inserting the cartridge. Also, there is no concern about expansion of the cartridge within the block since they will both expand whby tjb1 - Reprappers
If you can get on IRC, I can help you with the firmware/endstop setup.by tjb1 - Reprappers