Quotezylantha Makerbase have updated their Aliexpress listing for this board to v1.3. This presumably integrates the post-v1.1 crystal fixes for ethernet into the core design. As per usual, the description on the listing is not the best / clearest. I talked to them about v1.3 and was told the only change was in the ethernet department. I wasn't told any specifics though, as it would go over mby dintid - Controllers
Found and tested PWM pins switch.fan.output_pin 1.23 # J8 PWM pin switch.fan.output_pin 3.25 # EXP2 PWM pin switch.fan.output_pin 3.26 # EXP2 PWM pin Also a PWM pin available on E1 unless you have a 5th motor: switch.fan.output_pin 2.13 # E01 - Jc_M5-3 Dir PWM pin Almost done making an intstrby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 Well that was helpful to the question in the 1st post, doesn't matter anyways ill figure it out myself It was an advice, Making a non-descriptive Subject title is the sure way for no responses. I am actually curious about what you usage scenarios are like, since you need other sensors? I actually asked it, but it seems to have been filtered out. Mabye because I wrote on tablet...by dintid - Controllers
Quotepieri70 Thanks dintid at the end I bought power expander and all is ok but are you shure this HB only takes 5A @24V?? I'm going to change my board from ramps to radds 1.5 This way I could power all the system with 24V 20A?? If yours are like mine then yes. I currently run a complete printer with this bed by a passively cooled 24v 10a psu with a 5amp fuse in front of the bed. PSU does not geby dintid - Controllers
I have used some of those beds and they use less than 5amp at 24v. I think maybe ramps can actually deal with this on its own. Bed circuit is completely seperate so you can just feed 24v to bed power. Edit. I have always a 5amp fuse in front of them, and not one has ever went poof. Or use a power expander from reprap.me very nice product for future builds as well.by dintid - Controllers
Maybe make a more meaningful title so it shows up in searches and people looking for the same can see itby dintid - Controllers
QuoteCapnBry Yeah I'm not sure the images they have there are 100% accurate because looking at what pins they brought out, P0.14 isn't actually a thing as far as I can tell. Neither set seems to make much sense. EXP1 P1.31 - SCK1/AD0[5] P1.30 - AD0[4] P0.18 - MOSI0 P0.16 - SSEL0 P0.14 - Not a thing? So EXP1 is 1/2 an SPI bus (MOSI0/SSEL0, missing MISO0, SCK0), 2 ADC pins (AD0 4 and 5), and oneby dintid - Controllers
Anyone know if there are any free pwm pins on the board? Maybe one or all of the J8 pins? Or maybe one or more of the pins in EXP1/2 plugs? Need a pwm capable pin to use with an SSR to controll a fan.by dintid - Controllers
Created an Instructables on how to Setup External Driver on Smoothieware Sbase 1.2 Controller using E1 pins! Hope people find it usefull Decided to post here as I had problems finding good info on it myself. And pin for driver overview: Edited to insert images.by dintid - Controllers
Quoteleonal that's really useful , we can have compatible ultimaker carriage used in tantillus now! but the print volume is reduced , that's not good , I hope i can have a large tantillus (about 16cm*16cm*16cm) with compatible ultimaker xy carriage. If you want to make it bigger, you might as well use the Ultimaker 2 Go design insteadby dintid - Tantillus
QuoteKhaled Hi, I know I'm 3 years late with this question but I'd be grateful if you could elaborate a bit on this part of your answer QuoteCefiar You can run the 11A input on 24V and the 5A on 12V if you have either two power supplies or one that produces both voltages. If you are using two power supplies, they will be tied together via the RAMPS board on the ground pin. In 99.9% of cases thisby dintid - RAMPS Electronics
Quoteanimoose Hi, can anyone tell me if the motor and endstop connectors on the SBASE are physically and electrically the same as those on a RAMPS 1.4? That is, can i just unplug the cables from my RAMPS, plug them into the MKS SBASE and have it work? Or will I need to put different connectors or reorder the pins on the existing cables? (This is using endstops like these ones: , and motors likeby dintid - Controllers
Regardless of all of the above talk about 8825 decay rate and Things I do not understand really... surely there must be some firmware setting to adjust to mitigate this? The printers can run soooo nice and silently on marlin.by dintid - Controllers
Quotedc42 Quotedintid Edit: I actually have read that article several times.. only thing I understood is that DRV8825 is bad when using higher input voltage than the voltage needed to drive the motor... He didn't quantify it though, so is it 12 to 3, 24 to 3 or 200 to 3?.. meaning it was rather useless for me aside from stating that there are tangible problems Associated with the 8825 It's not aby dintid - Controllers
Quotedc42 Quoteo_lampe IIRC the step-pulse duration on some 32bit boards is pretty short. Don't remember exactly if it was a smoothie- or RRP firmware. ( dc42_delta version ) I think you are referring to an issue that someone had with RepRapFirmware on RADDS with DRV8825 drivers. The DRV8825s need a wider step pulse and a longer interval between step pulses than the A4982 drivers used in the Dueby dintid - Controllers
Quoteo_lampe IIRC the step-pulse duration on some 32bit boards is pretty short. Don't remember exactly if it was a smoothie- or RRP firmware. ( dc42_delta version ) Any idea on what to change in firmware, if possible?by dintid - Controllers
Firstly: I don't know wheter this is an Sbase issue or a Smoothieware issue. Previous builds: I have build several printers, all of them based on Arduino+ramps + marlin firmware. Been using different drivers like A4988, DRV8825 and Silent Step Stick (TMC2100). All of them Works fine with my motors, except maybe DRV8825, which tends to make a whining noise. I normally use them as extruder driverby dintid - Controllers
Quotetomi01_2000 Quotedintid How did you figure it was this piece? Asking as I have a dead Y axis. Both the driver AND external output pins and my Z-driver is having issues as well. Z-driver external pins Works fine though. . the small piece was burned, and it smoke after that the mboard no longer feeds/ no more light / led / etc - nothing. Zero! I have an multimeter no power on mboard ... Quotby dintid - Controllers
QuoteJoeyprints when your board went out did all of the lcds stay turned on regardless of having a sd card in the board. The reason I ask is, my board recently died. It would not be recognized by my computers on win 10 or 7.... It would not load firmware and change the extension to cur. the board appeared to be bricked. I started my printing experience with an original smoothieboard, but my cheapby dintid - Controllers
Quotetomi01_2000 the piece dead it's marked on red in the Photo How did you figure it was this piece? Asking as I have a dead Y axis. Both the driver AND external output pins and my Z-driver is having issues as well. Z-driver external pins Works fine though. Quotetomi01_2000 ... i try to use pronterface for ultimaker, on z it is moving very slow You can define speed in pronterface for XY and Z.by dintid - Controllers
Quotezylantha QuoteManniK I want to try 24V instead of 12V. Perhaps insufficient power supply for stepper? If so, then I do not understand why the weakest stepper shut down. It doesn't sound like anything to do with USB, and forget about EMI noise; I can almost guarantee it's not that. I would not try to go to 24V yet either - that introduces all sorts of other issues (like finding 24V fans andby dintid - Controllers
QuoteManniK Hello. What do you think, Is it power problems or firmware? I'm no Expert in this, but have seen the problem mentioned now and then.. meaning "my" solutions are what I've bumbed into elsewhere. When you say print from SD, do you mean micro SD on controller, or on display, or? Try a different USB cable.. might be EMI noise. IF you print from SD from display: I thnk it could be eithby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 Why would it be silly not much you can do with just having 5v going through controller and it does not power up through 5v i have tried I'm not really sure we are talking about the same thing here... you have still not answered wheter you use TFT32 on an Sbase Card, or on Ramps or something? ยจ How do you even attach external power to TFT32? It Would be stupid if I needed to attach eby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 I have the mks 32 tft and i have no option for 5v so your right with the tft 28 tft It's pretty strange as they do write QuoteMKS No need V12 external power Source: 3D Printer lcd/led RepRap MKS TFT32 touch screen smart controller display 3.2inch support APP/BT/customization/local language I should get my TFT32 any day now.. sure hope I don't have to attach external 12v.. that'd juby dintid - Controllers
QuotePotapich Jumper is set to 5v. But display is not lit. You ARE using an MKS Sbase 1.2 controller, or? I just checked and mine is set to 5v. I only power my controller through 24v DC and no USB or anything. Standard Arduino/Ramps combo can not deliver enough amp for it. Quotechris33 Is it being powered through usb or have you got 12v runing through like i said it wont run on 5v it has to seeby dintid - Controllers
QuotePotapich Hello. Not working board MKS Sbase! If SD card installed, it lights up only the led D7. If the SD card is not installed, it lights up the led D7 and D1. Blink the led D2 and D3. Smoothie device not appearing in device manger Have you installed the USB drivers from Maker-base github? Try looking at the instructable I created QuotePotapich I tried to upgrade the FW - nothing changesby dintid - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf Quotedintid I have read - several times - it and do not at all see it as an explanation. I know it is when i use BANG BANG instead of PID... but what does the 2c hysteresis mean? I use PID on hotend and bang bang on bed.. it Works fine, but I just don't like having a setting without explanation... might be better for my setup to have 1,3 og 5c, but since I don't know what the setby dintid - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf Quotedintid [*] Cold extrusion prevention? this would be nice Somebody got a free board as part of the smoothie contest ( smoothiecontest.org ) to implement this and a few other safety features, I expect we'll have these soon. If not, I plan on personally take time to do those. There is already a pull request for part of it on the site, it just needs refining. Awesome Quoteartby dintid - Controllers
Quotechris33 why not use fans to cool it better i was just going use a fan as i would any other board, have u got a probe set up and if yes what your using dintid Using heatsinks in conjunction with fans I get much better cooling at a potentially lower noise ration I do have a lot of small heatsinks (as mentioned), so might as well use them Just using airflow over flat points isn't going to cooby dintid - Controllers
Quotearthurwolf QuoteLeafy1 I had been considering a real smoothieboard, but got sucked into this thread with the MKS promise and now I'm questioning if I even want to go to ANY board that uses smoothieware firmware after seeing the attitude of the devs. . What are you talking about ? Soft endstops are pretty much the only major feature Smoothieware is still missing. It's a planned feature, andby dintid - Controllers