@Wurstnase: Thanks for adding RAMPS4DUE to the Marlin4Due repository!von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Regarding the OLED display, as promised, I have now put the details into a separate thread in the controllers section.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
This describes a little DIY project I did for building a I2C based tiny full graphic controller using the SSD1306 128x64 OLED display. This OLED display comes in two sizes, 0.96" and 1.3", and can be ordered on eBay for a few dollars. So far I only have the 0.96" version, but I have now ordered the 1.3" version. Fortunately, the SSD1306 interface is already supported in U8GLIB, so no programmivon enif - Controllers
Da der Lüfter ja sicher wesentlich weniger als 1A braucht, warum nicht einfach ein paar Gleichrichter-Dioden (z.B. 1N4001) in Serie mit dem Lüfter schalten, um von den 12V auf sichere 8V zu kommen? Von dort aus kannst du dann ja mit PWM weiter runter regeln.von enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
Did you have both the 12V power supply and the USB connected? If yes, you might experience a problem related to the well known Sanguinololu bug documented in the wiki. If the regulator also gets that hot if no USB is connected, then it must be some other problem...von enif - Sanguino(lolu)
Have you checked this thread? Note that the non-graphic 2004 and the full graphic display use the same cabling. But watch out if you buy an adapter, some have connectors that are mounted reverse - on mine I had to rotate the black plastic frames of the 10-pin sockets the by 180 degrees..von enif - Sanguino(lolu)
Dc42's point about about the mosfets is indeed a very important one. I my earlier messages I forgot to mention that I also replaced the mosfets with IRLB3034, which should work well even with a gate voltage of only 3.3V.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Ok, leaving aside my printer specific configuration and the oled stuff, here are just the Arduino Due related changes I made to Wurstnase's Marlin4Due, in order to make it work with my Arduino Due + standard RAMPS 1.4 with Andrew's modifications: 1) Copied pins_RAMPS_13.h from the standard Marlin version to pins_RAMPS4DUE.h and made the following modifications to it: $diff ../Marlin102/pins_von enif - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteAndrewBCN I think your demonstration validates my original idea of using a standard RAMPS and Due for small budget 32-bit firmware development, even for a Cartesian printer such as a Prusa i3. The difference in price between a clone Mega 2560 and a clone Due being something like $5, if somebody comes up with a factory-compatible RAMPS 1.5, usage of the Due + RAMPS combo is bound to catch upvon enif - RAMPS Electronics
Andrew, thanks very much for posting your modifications!!! What you propose makes really sense and is very easy to do. I followed your instructions to modify a RAMPS board and configured/loaded Marlin4Due on my Arduino Due - and now it is already doing the first test print! So far everything seems to work nicely I only had one problem, but it was not related to the modifications, but to Mavon enif - RAMPS Electronics
The heat of the heated bed is needed to keep the printed objects sticking to the building plate. If you stop heating before printing is finished, your objects will get loose and will move.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
If the output is constantly at 255, then the problem is definitely not the PID. Since your mosfet seems to be okay and and also the hotend resistor/heat cartridge (since it works via a relay), I propose that you have a good look at the cabling and the contacts. If these are good, check out the 5A polyfuse. Does it get warm? What is the voltage drop over it when heating? (Can be measured betwvon enif - RAMPS Electronics
What is the duty cycle while the temperature drops down? If it is always fully on or nearly ("128" displayed in Marlin) and if the temperature only starts going down when you are actually printing, then it's probably just a lack of heating power to keep heating the incoming filament fast enough. Since you say you need a relay for bang-bang mode to keep the heat, it could well be that you are jvon enif - RAMPS Electronics
Deine Acceleration-Werte scheinen mir sehr hoch. Probiers mal mit 1000 statt 3000.von enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
Evtl. ein Kurzschluss zwischen Source und Drain?von enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
Offensichtlich ist der On-Widerstand über dem Mosfet wesentlich höher als der Widerstand des Hotends, aber immer noch viel kleiner als der Widerstand über LED4/R25. Miss mal die Spannung am Mega Pin D10, sie sollte bei "Hotend on" bei ca. 5V liegen. Wenn ja, dann ist es wahrscheinlich wirklich der Mosfet. Wenn die Gatespannung aber kleiner ist, dann könnte dies auch die schlechtere Leitung desvon enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
You are using configuration files for a DELTA printer: ... // Define this to set a custom name for your generic Mendel, #define CUSTOM_MENDEL_NAME "Cerberus MEGA" ... //=========================================================================== //============================== Delta Settings ============================= //=========================================================================von enif - RAMPS Electronics
I haven't found any official documentation that explains the correspondence between analog pins A0 - A15 and digital pins 54 - 69. But if you look at the arduino source code, you'll find in file arduino/hardware/arduino/variants/mega/pins_arduino.h the following code where this correspondence is implemented: static const uint8_t A0 = 54; static const uint8_t A1 = 55; static const uint8_t A2 = 56von enif - RAMPS Electronics
The analog pins on the Mega A0-A15 are internally represented by the arduino pin numbers 54 to 69. These plain numbers can also be used when referring to those pins as digital pins. Thus, arduino pin 54 is actually the same as A0, which in turn corresponds to the physical pin 97.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Maybe this will help you. Talvez esto pode ajudar.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Why not feed the 5V from the PS via a Schottky diode (such as 1N5817) to the 5V (e.g. VCC pin on RAMPS) of the Arduino Mega? This way the voltage drop would only be about 0.3V compared to the almost 1V loss if you go through the linear 5V regulator of the Mega.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Das könnte ein Problem mit dem Pullup-Widerstand R9 sein, z.B. ein schlechte Lötstelle oder ein falscher Wert (sollte 4.7k sein). Oder auch der Kondensator C10 (10uF) könnte schadhaft sein.von enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
What type of printer do you have? Which firmware are you using? What LCD? ... Can you post photos of your setup and wiring?von enif - Sanguino(lolu)
Stimme STB voll zu. Wenn du PIDTEMPBED gesetzt hast, dann könnte je nach Verkablung das PWM/PID auf den hohen Heizbettströmen durchaus die Steuersignale der Motorentreiber stören und verlorene/falsche Schritte verursachen. Dazu würde passen, dass dein Problem ja erst beim Nachwärmen auftritt, also dann, wenn (im Gegensatz zur Aufwärmphase) wirklich gepulst wird. Falls du PIDTEMPBED gesetzt hasvon enif - Elektrik & Elektronik
You are welcome!von enif - RAMPS Electronics
I'm glad it worked! Schottky diode should be 5Vpsu ->| ramps.von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Looking at your last picture, I think that your red 5V wire going to the RAMPS doesn't do anything, it just goes to the servo headers. But I guess that this is better, since the Arduino also provides 5V, so if you connect the 5V from the 5V adapter to the RAMPS VCC (not the "5V" pin, but the "VCC" besides it), make sure to put a (Schottky) diode in series with the wire (stripe towards RAMPS) tovon enif - RAMPS Electronics
How does the ground from your 5V adapter get to the Arduino? Isn't there the black wire missing that brings the ground from the splitter to the Arduino in parallel with the red 5V?von enif - RAMPS Electronics
@Amachete: Can you post a photo of your setup and wiring?von enif - RAMPS Electronics
Do you have the jumper installed that connects AGND to DGND, as on the picture? (If not the ground is only for the LED.)von enif - RAMPS Electronics