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Printing issues ...
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The STL model is not very good. There are a lot of inverted elements, including the two saucer sections as well as the parts of the nacelles that were walled together in your print. You could try fixing the file in MeshLab or Netfabb.
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4MULE8
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Printing
You might need to try a higher nozzle temperature so that the strands don't snap.
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4MULE8
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Printing
I had the same issue and fixed it by changing those "advanced" extrusion widths you mentioned. The default width for the first layer was 200% (of normal extrusion width). In my opinion this should be set to 100%, or slightly more if it's really necessary.
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4MULE8
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Printing
Woohoo, I'm glad it worked!
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4MULE8
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Printing
Even just bullet points of your requirements and questions would be great! Why do you 'need' to buy a printer, and what are you planning to produce with it? How else are we supposed to guess what fits your needs?
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4MULE8
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General
Those marks happen where the printer starts and finishes drawing a perimeter, so it's normal to see a slight mark in the surface. In your case the printer seems to be extruding a bit too much plastic when it starts, stops or both, which is causing a bump. The retraction settings help to control the flow of plastic when these stops/starts occur.
It would help if you can share some more details ab
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4MULE8
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Printing
Try adjusting the retraction settings. You might need to retract a bit further or a bit faster, particularly if you have a Bowden-style extruder.
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4MULE8
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Printing
Sorry, those tabs have confusing titles don't they! The extrusion width settings that I was talking about are in "Print Settings" (the second tab) not "Printer Settings" (the fourth tab).
If you made any changes to Extruder 1 in "Printer Settings" (the screenshot you sent) then you should undo them. Setting some of those to 0 is a bad idea on a Huxley! Retraction length should be about 3mm, ret
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4MULE8
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Huxley
If your current computer is 14 years old then anything you upgrade to will feel so much faster that you wouldn't even notice any of those options. Spend $100 on a second hand laptop from this century (literally) and it'll be an improvement.
But that doesn't really answer your questions does it.
Slicer is at least partially multithreaded, so more cores is definitely better. The multithreading is
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4MULE8
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Slic3r
A bit of background into why some models slice properly and others don't.
As you know, slicing and processing a 3D model generates a set of g-code instructions that tell the printer where to put plastic in order to give us a physical object. Pretty simple really. We can clearly see the 3D model on the computer screen, and it's obvious which parts are supposed to be solid. There's a clear separat
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4MULE8
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Slic3r
I've had a look at your STL file. The problem is actually in the design, not in the slicing of it. The reason that the curves seem to "give up" is because they become thinner than one single line of extrusion, so Slic3r faithfully obeys your design (less than one line obviously equals no lines).
As a general rule of thumb no part of your model should ever be thinner than 2x your extrusion width.
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4MULE8
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Slic3r
When a stepper motor is off you don't need a lot of external force to manually rotate it. This is called its "detent torque". A stepper motor can be "on" without actually rotating. The power is used to hold its position, and it you need much more external force to overcome it. This is called its "holding torque". However, in your case the z-steppers might be a red herring. Can you slide your x-ca
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4MULE8
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Printing
Those screenshots show that you do have gap fill enabled.
What do you have for the extrusion width (found in "Print Settings" > "Advanced")? If you're using the standard 0.5mm nozzle you could try setting the default extrusion width to 0.4mm with the rest left on 0. That should generate tighter paths in the g-code and might be enough to fit another another line of filament in the gap.
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4MULE8
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Huxley
Those gaps occur when your slicer (eg. Skeinforge, Slic3r, etc) determine that there isn't enough space to extrude a line of filament. For example if that's a 0.4mm gap then you can't fit 0.5mm of filament into it. You could try scaling the models up by a little bit before printing, or switching to a narrower nozzle. You could also try setting a lower value for the extrusion width in your slicer,
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4MULE8
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Huxley
Those new numbers sound sensible to me, though maybe keep the infill a little faster. You could also try bumping your external perimeters up to 100% speed instead of 70% (or whatever the default modifier is) since this will be the perimeter with the most overhang.
Unless they've changed since I bought my kit those RepRapPro nozzles are very squat, meaning they can transfer more excess heat into
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4MULE8
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Printing
A fan blowing on the bed helps a lot, but doesn't fix it in my (limited) experience. My theory is that there's not much mass of plastic in overhanging sharp tips like those teeth, which means the nozzle is able to heat up the whole thing as it passes over, even if the plastic had been cooled to room temperature by the fan. And since the supporting mass is all hot and melty again it easily deforms
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4MULE8
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Printing
I could be wrong, but it looks like your steps-per-mm is set waaay too high on the z-axis.
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4MULE8
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Printing