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Printing issues ...
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Awesome! It worked. Thank you.
Zac
by
hennenzac
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General
Hello all,
I am getting a new laptop for my 3D printing and I was wondering if there was a way to transfer the custom buttons in Pronterface. I made quite a few of them and some even have macros assigned to them. I was hoping there was some custom file somewhere on my PC that i could just use and it would be the same as I had it.
I have tried copying the whole pronterface folder (the one wi
by
hennenzac
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General
I have got my color change procedure down. I use the pause button on Pronterface, then click X10 left a couple times, switch the filament, force it through the nozzle by hand, clean the tip, and press resume. I really thought that was going to be more complex and harder to time, but knowing the buffer it 10 commands it makes it easy when the perimeters are 9 commands.
One the thing to note i
by
hennenzac
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General
I'm assuming though, that the pins are already defined with or without pullups in the Marlin software somewhere? I was hoping someone could just point me in the general direction. I found where they define what pins are in ramps ex) #define FAN_PIN 8, but where do they define it as an input or output, pullup or not pullup? I know coding somewhat and as far as i know #define just ren
by
hennenzac
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Firmware - Marlin
Would the problem with the Z height work the same if my part is too tall? I have the exact problem, but opposite direction. My first few layers are thinner than the rest of my print so it tapers outward as the the print moves up, just every so slightly. I measured my print and it's 0.23mm taller than what is designed. Or is it more of a heat bed issue? I've tried with a warm and cold bed an
by
hennenzac
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Mendel90
Hello,
I have been wanting to use some of the AUX on my RAMPS board, but how do I know how the pins are configured? Whether they are an input or an output? Whether an internal pullup is enabled? If there is a good website or just knowing which file to look at in the Marlin would be appreciated.
Thanks.
by
hennenzac
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Firmware - Marlin
I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin 1.0.2 firmware. I don't know much about RepRapFirmware but I just upgraded my Marlin to the latest for the bed leveling features. If anyone out there changes filament with pause using pronterface, I wouldn't mind reading what your procedure is, just to get some examples. Maybe I'm making it more complicated than it has to be.
by
hennenzac
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General
Yea, that's what had as an alternative was to make the buttons to retract, and move the head after I clicked pause. I'm just worried about the ooze/bump in the print when I take the half second to move across my pc screen to click the move button. I know i could stop it during the infill so it's not as noticeable. And again with the precision of when to change filament. For me adding gcode is
by
hennenzac
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General
Hello,
I am trying to print with multiple colors with a single extruder using the pause method. There are lots of examples and ways to doing it all over the internet and forums. My biggest hangup I don't like on most of them are that it pauses then waits for a button press on the lcd. This does not allow me to control the printer from pronterface which I want so I can prime the extruder with
by
hennenzac
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General
I also have my layer set to 0.1mm using a feeler gauge, seems like a good height.
by
hennenzac
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Printing
I also had the clumping up issue on bare clean heated glass. I have used painters tape which gives me the perfect adhesion so the prints are great, but I can hardly get them off the glass. I now use sugar water. I brush it over the bed while it's heating and keep spreading it out till it evaporates and becomes almost like a sticky syrup. Then I print on that. I have had excellent first layer
by
hennenzac
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Printing
Thanks for the info. I tried measuring the distance when the hot end and bed was warm, and it was a lot tighter to the bed. I'll keep raising my Z endstop until i get a decent measurement of my first layer matching my slicer setting. Hopefully this fixes my height thickness issue. Thanks.
by
hennenzac
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Printing
Should the first layer height match what I have set in the slicer or will it be shorter in the first layer since it needs to be squished? Or does the extra extrusion on the first layer account for the squishing?
The skirt measure 0.15 mm thick. So what should this first layer be when i have it set to 0.35?
I set my z endstop and level the bed when the bed is warmed, but not the hotend (if t
by
hennenzac
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Printing
Hello,
I have a part that I printed that in the model the vertical thickness is 2mm and I measure 1.7mm on the part. Trying to figure out why it's shorter. I know this should be only effected by the z height rather than extrusion. So here are my questions about z height:
I have a starting layer of 0.35 and printing at a 0.2 layer height. So if i take 2 mm(total height) - 0.35 (first layer)
by
hennenzac
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Printing
Settings I had in Slicer
0.4 mm layer height
Slower speeds (travel is 130)
Retraction - 1.5 mm
Filament - 2.97 mm
by
hennenzac
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Printing
Hello,
I'm having an issue with my top surface finish. During the first layer, it makes all the perimeters, and when it travels from one perimeter to another, it doesn't retract at all and it leaves a thin stringy streak of plastic which makes the surface finish bumpy. It does this during the other layers as well, which then in the end the top finish isn't as nice as it should be. If I could
by
hennenzac
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Printing
Have you tried setting your motor currents? I had a really noisy printer when I first built it and later when I calibrated (lowered) the motor currents (not too low) the noise reduced greatly. I don't know if the vibration from the motor runs through the bearings, but now you only hear the buzzing of the motor. I have the same bearings as you as well. Just a suggestion.
by
hennenzac
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General
Perfect, thank you for clearing this up.
by
hennenzac
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Reprappers
Okay, I understand. I didn't know you there was different options for support pattern (simple mode), so when I seen the honeycomb I assumed it was infill. So just to make this clear, if i create a solid cube, it will fill the middle area with "infill" based on the percentage I set. If i creat a hollow cube, it will fill in the middle area with "support" based on the settings set in that catago
by
hennenzac
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Reprappers
Hi. I can't seem to find a clear answer to my question about Sli3er. I'm a little confused about the infill option. I understand what it does, but not quite when it does it. I originally thought that after the printer lays it solid bottom layers, it would use infill only for hollow space that is enclosed. So using OpenSCAD I made a my part hollow in the middle with determined sidewalls. Whe
by
hennenzac
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Reprappers