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Printing issues ...
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QuoteDjDemonD
So it seems there are two wider issues:
1) do non-geeks want 3d printers? and if not is it because they have no utility for them, or is it because they're frightened they won't be able to get them to work?
2) If they do want them - how do you make a cheap, "prints-out-of-the-box" printer, as the Cubicon proves you can make one and retail it for $2500, but thats not the price point
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ishe7ata
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General
@SteveRoy I don't see anything wrong with moving Z axis. I mean as long as it's well calculated and properly maintained; it works. For the example you mentioned, Yes sure I agree. There are ways to get things done properly and rarely adjust the bed. But the discussion now is about how making the adjustment COMPLETELY unnecessary. At least that what I've had in mind.
@Treito What I've in mind is
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ishe7ata
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
I like the idea and the passive nature of it is good also. I think you can calculate a plane using the method you have proposed. I do not know how easy or quick it will be to build as you have to calibrate this mechanism somehow.
However whilst the potentiometers will be cheap, the dead flat base will not be. Nothing that is nearing truly flat i.e. tooling plate is cheap. Also if
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ishe7ata
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
This is pretty close to a works out of the box printer but its £1899/$2713!
That is one piece of machinery right there! it's insane! I still think using motors for the bed is an overkill. It's what the engineering team opts for when they have unlimited budget and aim for perfect results. I'm still very interested in the Passive ABL concept. This is what I have in mind so far.
So
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ishe7ata
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General
QuotePRZ
I searched a bit and finally found it :
see here on the Lulzbot mini review from Thomas Sanladerer, from 4:40
HA HA!! So my idea works... It's been made before. Music to my ears! ) I have to give it a try then...
@DjDemonD:
I get it now... True I agree that the Filament Runout system should be implemented. How about filament change mid print? How to make it more user friendly? Actu
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ishe7ata
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General
Hi again,
Sorry for late response things got busy on campus. I'm so glad with where we are in the discussion now. I'd like to firstly stress that what I agree with DjDemonD; the point is to build a printer for the masses.
For me my 3D printer is the ultimate toy! When it works it's awesome to print things, when it doesn't it's even more fun to fix. I have no problem whatsoever with ABL but for
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ishe7ata
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General
Hello there,
Here is what I think, 3D printers still have years and years till they become normal home appliance. The barrier to entry is still very high; your grandma still can't do CAD but she can your TV. I think the focus should be more in getting the technology itself closer to the eventual vision rather than sell it as is right now as a consumer friendly product.
Anyway,.... Let's get to
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ishe7ata
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
It's a normally open sensor so the led should only come on when it is placed next to a surface. Test the sensor first connect negative and +12v leave the signal wire unconnected. The led should be off. Bring the sensor near a surface usually around 2-4mm away the led should come on.
If you now put a multimeter from negative to the signal wire you should be reading 0v when nothing
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ishe7ata
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General
Quotefrankvdh
If the LED is always on, then the sensor has failed.
These capacitive sensors seem to fail regularly... I've gone through two so far, and now prefer manual height setting.
I think I will take your word for it.. Yet just to add,
I've struggled with it and got it work using the voltage divider. Then realized that it's not sensing the glass but rather the heatbed beneath. So I glued
by
ishe7ata
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General
Hi!
I've been printing for some months now. Without auto bed levelling and it's a pain in the ass.
I already had the sensor ljc18a3-h-z/bx so I printed a mounting and have been trying to get it to work for the last three hours.
I've read this topic.
I've tried this configuration
What happenes is that the LED is ALWAYS on and from the host I get OPEN all the time.
I tried this although min
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ishe7ata
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General
QuoteAquaticsLive
Does anyone have a good sounce for extension cables for Nema 17 stepper motors? I have made some on my last project, but would be nice to just get them if they sell them cheap some place.
Use this....
They worked just fine for me
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ishe7ata
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Reprappers
Quotedc42
I have just checked, and I am actually using 800mm/sec^2 on X and Y axes of the Ormerod, not 1000mm/sec^2. I increased the motor currents to 1000mA from the default of 800mA, although I am not sure this is necessary. Print quality is good at 100% speed, acceptable at 150% speed, and poor at 200% speed (all using the same acceleration setting).
However, I see that in October last year,
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quotedc42
The achievable accelerations and printing speeds depend on the printer design, and you haven't said what printer you have. My Ormerod (Cartesian) printer works well at 1000mm/sec^2 acceleration, and my Kossel (delta) can handle at least 2000mm/sec^2. I slice using 30mm/sec for perimeters, 21mm/sec for external perimeters and 50mm/sec for infill. But these figures are conservative, and a
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quotedc42
The achievable accelerations and printing speeds depend on the printer design, and you haven't said what printer you have. My Ormerod (Cartesian) printer works well at 1000mm/sec^2 acceleration, and my Kossel (delta) can handle at least 2000mm/sec^2. I slice using 30mm/sec for perimeters, 21mm/sec for external perimeters and 50mm/sec for infill. But these figures are conservative, and a
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Hey there,
Before I dig into it, I've just done my first build so I'm a noob for now. So take it easy on me.
My first printer still has some issues that I'm trying to solve like oozing and other stuff. Yet, I get very nice prints at 25mm/s (more on the numbers later) with default Acc settings of 60mm/s^2 (I know now that this is too low). So I print a part in three hours a small low poly pokemo
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
I use 50 on the bed if part is small, and increase it as the size of the part increases, so that part it's ok.
Now 180 it's kind of cold for PLA, and you can suffer delamination if printing fast. The least I print at is 195 and go up to 220 on certain colors and filament quality.
On the photo you posted, it looks like extrusion failure more than delamination because the rest of th
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
On top of the sensor is a trimpot that you can use to increase or decrease sensing distance.
The one you posted is for up to 5mm distance, mine is up to 10mm buth it is much thicker and heavier so keep it close to nozzle height, if you can design the housing make the insert for the nut on top and the hole for the sensor and then thigh from bottom.
I use the LM7805 because I powere
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
I use a capacitive sensor which is heavier and more expensive but work with glass. But either an inductive or better yet an IR sensor will do the job nicely.
Thanks for the help so far...
I'm looking for a capacitive sensor to buy now.. I found this...
Do you have any guide regarding the setup and so on?? I couldn't find a good one...
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
If only on one side of the print I would assume to be a bed leveling problem, but the part is small and should not be affected by that. I think it's a combination of 2 things: too big of a layer combined with low temperature.
It looks like a 0.3mm layer? And assume you still printing at 185? Change it to 0.2 and go to 195 or even 200 degrees and either keep bed at 60 or raise it to
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
I amp is usually enough, and will reduce the load on the driver. If not enough you can go up to 1.7 without problems since the A4988 can handle up to 2 amps, but definitely put a heatsink in the driver and be sure to cool it with a fan all the time.
The best thing to do is to measure each motor coil resistance and use for Z the 2 motors that have the closest value possible.
Thank
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
It shows how to properly calibrate the stepper drivers.
Hey there,
Thanks for your reply. I'm confused though.... my motors are rated at 1.7A so if I'm powering both Z axis with one driver I should aim at what Amps rating?
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Ok I just noticed that my z axis motors are not on the same height! the thing is I already calibrated them before!!!
Any idea why they are not running exactly at the same length?? I have the potentiometer almost turned up to max and both motors on parallel in the two z-axis sockets on Ramps.
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
First layer to far from built plate, do not turn of your bed heater, calibrate your Z axis and fix your hotend fan.
So I keep the bed at 60? or do i need to lower it ?
by
ishe7ata
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Printing
Hey there,
This is my first printer. I finally went through the adjustments and calibration.
Here is the problem for now, I tried to print this So I started with the simple Spacer part.
The profile from the side looks horribly unround!
I'm also having trouble with warping. I'm printing PLA at 185 and bed at 60 at beginning, later i turned it off cuz the fist couple of layers were drooling
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ishe7ata
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Printing
Quotetjb1
Quoteishe7ata
Hey there,
So two quick questions:
My steppers came naked at the end with no sockets whatsoever. So I wanted to install those. Instead I was recommended to use these www.dx.com/p/1-pin-dupont-wire-connector-cables-40-pcs-20cm-151537#.VPcFNvmUe2U Which I already have now.
Can I strip those off and solder one to each stepper wire and then insert them in RAMPS? Essentially
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ishe7ata
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Reprappers
Hey there,
So two quick questions:
My steppers came naked at the end with no sockets whatsoever. So I wanted to install those. Instead I was recommended to use these www.dx.com/p/1-pin-dupont-wire-connector-cables-40-pcs-20cm-151537#.VPcFNvmUe2U Which I already have now.
Can I strip those off and solder one to each stepper wire and then insert them in RAMPS? Essentially will they be able to ta
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ishe7ata
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Reprappers
QuoteKingRahl
If the male end not already on the board go here .
Follow the video above on how to crimp and solder each wire and install into female end of plug in correct order.
Thanks man.. I think things are clear now..
by
ishe7ata
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Reprappers
Hey there,
So I'm doing my first build. I got Ramps 1.4 and got steppers ready and ordered the rest which are on the way.
The problem now is that the thermositers and the motors come with bare ends. So I need to install the 4-pin connections at the end to plug into the RAMPS.
I found that it's called Molex KK100.. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Now how to install those on the ends? and Do I need tool
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ishe7ata
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Reprappers
QuoteZavashier
It's true, the difference is not the price, but the overall quality You surely understand that bulk buy is not that cheap today, except if you can buy 1.000 or 10.000 parts. The 3D printer market is still too small today. If a kit is cheap, it's because you buy very cheap items inside. Actualy, a good home build about $280 equals a $500 kit. When you buy a $300 kit, you buy cheap
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ishe7ata
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Reprappers
QuoteZavashier
Quoteishe7ataAnd what about buying different separate kits from different sellers?
Like mechanical kit from one, electronics from one and so on... You think the savings will be worth it?
It sounds good to me, because you'll select the best possible components at each step. BUT, you should also check that parts are fully compatible, even if it's always possible to adjust parts to th
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ishe7ata
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Reprappers
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