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Printing issues ...
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I would say it's not a good deal. The item costs $94.09 and shipping is $45.49 (really?) for a total of $139.58. I got my full RAMPS 1.4 + Arduino Mega 2560 + 5 stepper drivers with heatsinks + cables + 12v cooling fan for $112 (including shipping). RAMPS is a lot more fun from experience as you have a lot more IO to mess around with, giving you options such as dual extruders, extra cooling fans,
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Lodorenos
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Reprappers
1) I understand the concept of print, refine, print again. But once you've achieved the desired finish how repeatable is it and, given the tolerances of manufacture, what kind of variance in the finished product should one expect? In short how repeatable is the finished article?
The printed parts will be perfectly identical on a well calibrated machine. The GCode produced will cause the printer
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Lodorenos
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General
"Why do you say 325C degrees? At what temperature should PET be extruded?"
That is a stable temperature an all metal hotend can operate at.
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Lodorenos
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General
After reading a topic about an all metal hotend capable of reaching 325'C+, I came up with this idea. It may have been thought of before, but I was unable to find it mentioned anywhere: Printing complete PCBs without needing to etch the board afterwards.
To start off, a PCB needs at least two types of material to function properly:
- A conductive material for traces
- An nonconducting board sup
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Lodorenos
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General
If you get the press working well you could possibly recover costs of the drill press by selling additional nozzles on eBay. Best of luck.
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Lodorenos
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General
The most important things in my opinion that affect quality, in order, are calibration, layer height, and nozzle size.
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Lodorenos
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General
I've seen the issue of the Z axis motor overheating and skipping steps around this forum and other forums as well. Some recommend turning OFF the Z axis motor in the firmware when it is not in use, as a stepper will generate a lot of heat when ON but not moving. However, doing this can cause the Z axis to slide down slightly because of the vibration of the X axis and Y axis.
What do each of you
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Lodorenos
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Reprappers
I purchased a set of these from eBay about two weeks ago, and was pleasantly surprised. The shipping was fast, came very well packed in a strong plastic box as pictured above, and they even included a 12v fan (which wasn't mentioned on the eBay sales page).
I have yet to hook it up, as I'm waiting for some additional parts to arrive, but it looks good so far. The electronics are soldered neatly
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Lodorenos
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For Sale
Thanks for your reply Sanjay, I read the entire thread and visited your website. It looks good, and it's definitely a solid leap in the right direction. However, £55 is equal to about $86, which is more than I want to spend on a hotend while on my college budget. Keep up the good work, I hope you have many sales.
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Lodorenos
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General
Thank you for your replies. I suppose I'll wait until my Prusa is finished and give it some test runs. I plan on buying/making several hotends for different purposes as time goes by anyway. I'm glad to hear that the smaller nozzle will create sharper corner detail, as it's quality, not speed, that I'm after.
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Lodorenos
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General
With the recent increase in interest when it comes to recycling plastic to make our own filament, I hope someone can answer my question about which hotend supports the highest heat in a stable manner.
My household uses at least 20-30 water bottles per week, in addition to Gatorade bottles. Both are made of PET(E) plastic (recycle code #1) which has the following properties:
Melting Temperature:
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Lodorenos
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General
That hotend you found on eBay is the exact same one I bought and used for my first build. It's excellent, no problems so far and easily extrudes ABS without issue.
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Lodorenos
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General Mendel Topics
It seems the FilaBot is close to release status. A well working machine such as this would open the doors to printing in many new plastics such as HDPE, LDPE, PET, PE, and more. The more people that experiment with the new plastics, the more problems that would be fixed (such as HDPE shrinking up to 2%). Sometimes I wish I could just head 5 years or so into the future so all these ideas are alrea
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Lodorenos
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General
Before doing that, make sure you take into account the fact that electronics (including the NEMA steppers) will degrade more readily in a hot environment. Also, the metal rods will increase and decrease in size slightly with the temperature change, which might cause inaccurate prints.
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Lodorenos
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General
I plan on using PLA to start off with, as it doesn't require a HBP which I still need to build. As soon as I get the machine calibrated I plan to switch to ABS and start making Prusa Mendel sets to sell at no profit (just plastic cost + S&H + $5 machine maintenance). I got a 0.25mm nozzle because I prefer print quality over print speed.
How much of a visible quality difference does 0.25mm ma
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Lodorenos
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General
Hello,
In the past few weeks I have dived into building myself a RepRap Prusa Mendel. Being on a college budget, I made sure to try to save as much money as possible. This means soldering the RAMPS 1.4 and Arduino Mega 2560, in addition to making my own hotend. I was able to get printed parts from a friend who has a RepRap Darwin for $20 (about the cost of 500g plastic) and the total cost of my
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Lodorenos
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General
This sounds interesting, please keep us updated on the results.
Do you happen to know what kind of plastic the weed trimmer line is made of (Nylon, I assume), and could you post information about the type and brand of the line, printer settings, pictures of the printed results, and other relevant information? I haven't heard of anyone using weed trimmer line before, but it sounds very useful as
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Lodorenos
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General
To start off, parts of this topic could be placed in several different areas (such as 3D scanners, polymer working, etc) but since it's a topic that covers several areas I think this section is the most appropriate.
Most of us here are building RepRaps for the possibility of printing our own plastic objects. I see the ideal desk setup for us RepRappers being (| Computer | RepRap | 3D Scanner | F
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Lodorenos
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General
Since no one has seemed to know any further information in regards to PET(E) usage, I'll attempt to make some of my own filament with a modified RecycleBot and report back how it goes. I believe that my current hotend, rated at 350'C, should do just fine.
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Lodorenos
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Polymer Working Group
I have a few questions when it comes to this design.
1. You would need 5 extruders to power this, how would you design the cold end?
2. What is a cubic pixel in the real world?
3. What would be mixing the filament, it looks like you have a rotating blade?
4. What does the electromagnetic coil do?
5. How would you prevent air bubbles in the mixture?
I honestly don't see this working, you would h
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Lodorenos
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hello community,
I have been planning on building a RepRap (Prusa I1) for some time now, and I finally decided to dive in and buy some required parts after doing vigorous research. I am currently on vacation in the USA, and I return to the Netherlands next week. I want to get as much things needed before I head back in order to avoid shipping costs later down the line.
So far I have:
Threaded
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Lodorenos
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Reprappers
I have been looking into expanding the range of printable plastics, but I have yet to see any information about printing in PET plastic. With easy access to it, I would like to know if anyone here has done any research into printing with this material. If so, what are the positive and negative sides of it, what heat bed temp did you use, and what did you have your hot end temp set to?
This is al
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Lodorenos
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Polymer Working Group
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