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Printing issues ...
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Here's a side by side i found:
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isonoob
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Tantillus
uhh im unfamiliar with reprap.bat, but there really isnt a software that i know of called reprap. usually you would need to install arduino drivers for the microcontroller controlling your printer, download a slic3r such as kisslicer, slic3r, or simplify3d. then you would need soemthing like pronterface/printrun, repetier host, or simplify3d to send the gcode from the slicing software to the micr
by
isonoob
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General
@rob_paragoncb
I am not experiencing the same issue. I have a MendelMax 1.5, I used to use a combination of Slic3r and Pronterface. Now I solely use Simplify3D for slicing models and controlling my printer. Maybe try Pronterface or Repetierhost and connect to your printer and see if it is heating up the hot end?
@MrDoctorDIV
What you said makes sense. The tabbed interface of the Machine Control
by
isonoob
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General
That's strange, I just got the software as well, whenever it connects to my printer, it does not auto-heat my hot end.
MrDoctorDIV,
just a question, why do you use Simplify3D to slice then send it to the printer via repetier host?
by
isonoob
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General
Been great, tons of fun and prints out very nicely! There was no guide last year but I was able to watch a few YouTube videos and piece it together fortunately.
by
isonoob
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General
I bought a kit from makea3dfactory/mike a little over a year ago!
by
isonoob
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General
I tried to match the settings up as best as I could, the only thing I didnt change for either was speed. anything having to do with movement speed i kept it at each respective programs' defaults. another thing I changed was for slic3r, I usually have it set to infill every other layer to speed up time of printing.
layer height: .18mm
infill: 15%
infill type: rectilinear
top solid layers: 5
botto
by
isonoob
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General
Ive never used the leapfrog printers, but it looks clear that this is a hardware issue doing with the X and Y movements. Either mechanical binding or electrical, you could try using different software to slice and interface with the printer but I expect to see similar results.
by
isonoob
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General
Quick video I made showing the slicing speeds of Slic3r vs Simplify3D software. Model was the Theodore Roosevelt model featured on Thingiverse. I used NetFabb to scale the model up 200%, then ran it through both Slic3r and Simplify3D to compare their slicing speeds.
Video here:
Cliffs:
Slic3r successfully sliced the model in approx 1min25 seconds. Simpliy3D sliced the same model in ~6seconds.
by
isonoob
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General
Been looking through instagram and have been seeing some people with makiboxes. Here's one
If anyone has one please post pics!
by
isonoob
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General
I'm not sure if kapton and PET are both equally difficult to apply, but I've had problems in the past geting bubble free PET down on my large aluminum build plate (has a "sticket" heated bed stuck underneath it to heat it up). the best method Ive found that I use is to put down a layer of painters tape, and then apply the PET tape on top of that and it works like a charm.
by
isonoob
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General
I have NOT used bowden extruder and do NOT have an all metal hotend.
I've used a Budaschnozzle 1.2 clone, and it was horrendous. Would jam PLA every few minutes, definite do not recommend.
Took my chances went with a genuine Budaschnozzle 2.0, great hot end. 0.35mm nozzle, has the option to go smaller if you buy nozzle separately, and is USA based. I print PLA and ABS and have no problems with
by
isonoob
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General
ive only tried budaschnozzle 1.2 and budaschnozzle 2.0, the 2.0 is working great for me, can't make a comment about the other hot ends though.
by
isonoob
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General
hmm interesting read and nophead, i dont have any specifications for them unfortunately. they came with my 1/4" precision rods to be attached to the stepper. They are the metal flexible couplers, do you think switching them out for a different type would help the issue?
by
isonoob
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Reprappers
I'm using 1/4" Precision Leadscrews w/nuts and springs, for the green print I had it constrained at the top with zip ties to try and straighten the rod, but for the red prints i took it off. both z-rods are using flexible couplings on the bottom to connect to the steppers. the smooth rods are 10mm
by
isonoob
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Reprappers
Here are 3 Prints I've done, there seems to be a bit of a line-i-ness to the prints. Is this from Z-Wobble? What can I do to improve the prints? I also lubricated my rods prior to the print. Machine is a RepRap MendelMax with a Budashnozzle 2.0 hot end, .35mm nozzle, printing at .2mm layer height, 3mm filament from UltiMachine.
by
isonoob
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Reprappers
the only issue I see so far with DIY at home filament extruders are insconsistent filament diameters
by
isonoob
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General
I don't have a portabee but from personal experience, if I have a fan or breeze blowing on my print bed sometimes it struggles getting to the right temperature
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isonoob
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General
i had similar experience just recently. My printer was printing fine no issues with the two main suppliers I use (LulzBot and Ultimachine 3mm PLA/ABS) but then I decided to try out a different supplier (wont name dont want to talk poorly since I've only tried one spool from them). Always fails to extrude some point during the print. Tried a different range of pressure on the guidler, different te
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isonoob
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General
I (OP) also have not tried out the printer, and unfortunately the store didn't have one set up as a demo/model. First time I've heard of this printer, and although I would probably go for Mendel90 over this, having an all in one kit from a brick and mortar store is pretty awesome!
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isonoob
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General
For people interested, living in Massachusetts (USA) found these 3D Printer kits being sold at You-Do-It Electronics in Needham.
Made by Velleman... Didn't know they had a 3D Printer kit! was so excited to see this! Also they sell 1kg rolls of black, white, and natural 3mm PLA for $49.99
This is a link to the actual product from the Manufacturer's website
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isonoob
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General
Dark Alchemist, sorry for your loss. please let me know if you would like something printed, I will print you something free.
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isonoob
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General
that is firmware side you need to make the proper adjustments to get the correct print. adjust according to which axis it is being flipped on. if it is being flipped across the y axis, i would just flip the y stepper header on the board and move the endstop as well to the "new" home
by
isonoob
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General
if you're using pronterface you could try hitting pause and then immediately hit Z-axis up 10, it might take a few seconds for it to follow the pause and move up command or it might be instant. Press the buttom for Motors Off, then set your bed and hot end temperature to where they were during the print, and just carefully turn the large herringbone gear to reverse the flow of filament, load up t
by
isonoob
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General
the glass in them are real prescription that came out of my glasses that I broke accidentally, i took them out in the last picture I posted to show the thickness of the frames
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isonoob
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Look what I made!
ooph i totally forgot abotu this thread lol sry! i printed a new model a few weeks ago which ive been wearing everyday. I get a few comments almost every where I go, ranging from "are those google glasses?" "is that a fashion statement" "sorry we have to ask, what are those glasses" I get tons of comments. I have fixed thenose problem a few weeks ago as the first prototype wasnt very comfortable,
by
isonoob
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Look what I made!
rick55 Wrote:
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> isonoob Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > really? My HB also measures around 6Ω, I'm
> using
> > RAMPS 1.4 with the recommended Mosfet and an
> ATX
> > PSU providing 12V. My heatbed reaches 105C in
> > about 2-3 minutes, 10 mins is a ridiculously
>
by
isonoob
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Reprappers
really? My HB also measures around 6Ω, I'm using RAMPS 1.4 with the recommended Mosfet and an ATX PSU providing 12V. My heatbed reaches 105C in about 2-3 minutes, 10 mins is a ridiculously long time to wait in my opinion
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isonoob
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Reprappers
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Pages: 12345