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Printing issues ...
My Mendel90 built from a kit from Nophead heats the bed regularly to 100C for PETG with no problems. I have only rarely printed ABS but it did heat it to 130C on those occasions.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
I use the ducted fan for PLA but not ABS or PETG. Replacing it with a single angled fan is not good as the print can warp due to uneven cooling. I have used 3 angled fans on another machine with good results but fitting 3 on a Mendel90 would need a fair bit of work I think.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
low cost = cheap parts usually. For an easier build experience pay more to get good parts and detailed instructions.
For more specific advice it is best to post your location, experience, requirements and budget.
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
T-Glase is PETT. It says so on the label .
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
ECO linked to above will supply PETG in any color or transparent MOQ 5kg.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
I haven't tried it on kapton as it prints well on plain glass. I only get warping on large prints - 200mm x 190mm x 60mm and it is much less than PLA.
Print cooling seems to have no effect on that small amount of warping. It has a stronger texture than PET with a slight resilience rather than brittleness.
PETG needs higher temperatures for the bed and hotend.
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Here is some reasonably priced PETG in EU .
I haven't tried it and the temperatures suggested seem far too low for PETG.
I pay slightly less from China.
You need to email them to buy it. I pay $18/kg + shipping + customs
It prints fine on clean glass. It is definitely a lot stronger than PLA and not brittle.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
There exists a certain amount of confusion between PET and copolymers of PET such as PETG and T-glase. Different copolymers have widely different requirements.
PET has similar requirements to PLA. For PETG I use a 100°C bed and 245°C hotend.
I have seen both PET and PETG advertised for sale as T-glase whereas T-glase is poly(ethylene-co-trimethylene terephthalate) (PETT) which seems generally mor
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
Pronterface is easy. Skeinforge and Slic3r for slicing - some prints work better with one, some the other.
Openscad for design is easy to use for mechanical parts but maybe not for artwork.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
Some hotends need or benefit from a fan to cool the cool end for example the E3D. Some materials such as PLA use a print cooling fan to minimize warping.
So, depending on your hotend and material tro print you may want 2 fans. One is directed on the cool end of the hotend as in
The other is directed onto the print possibly with ducting. If you post some details of your planned printer then peopl
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
You can get pc precut to size from some places e.g.
You might also consider dibond which is easy to work with.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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Prusa i3 and variants
I am putting together parts for a Delta with around 320mm diameter build size. Are OD 6mm carbon rods (ID 4mm) strong enough or should I get thicker ones?
by
Ralph.Hilton
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Delta Machines
I can't see a reason to use thicker than 3mm. Glass is used as a thermal insulator so your bed will have to be much hotter for 6mm glass.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
Are your towers equidistant and the rods of equal length?
by
Ralph.Hilton
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Delta Machines
I tried it and rarely use it now (not that exact one but a carbon fibre plate from the same supplier). With PLA and PETG I find adhesion not as good as glass.
For a Kossel mini this seems a good option:
I don't see a price though.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Delta Machines
You cannot create generalized ratings for these things. The best material to use depends on the needs, experience, resources and budget of the person building the machine.
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
I would start with building a proven design of a smaller printer. If you are designing a larger one a printer to print your parts will be essential.
In the UK sell kits for reliable design and give excellent customer service.
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
Insulation under the bed helps. I use cardboard covered in reflective metallic tape.
If your order gets botched the seller should correct it surely?
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Ralph.Hilton
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General
I would use white dibond for the enclosure except the front. That way light is reflected inside for better viewing of prints.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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General
Or you could read about them in English:
€3.40 each so a bit more costly than traxxas.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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Delta Machines
Intuition suggests that the weight of the rod would need to be increased in proportion to the length so that a 50% increase in length requires a roughly 25% increase in rod width. But intuition is probably inferior to the calculations of an engineer.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
If the pointers are changing by 85 degrees then that is a change of about 0.25mm in the Z position and it will affect print quality. I would suspect that the cause is that something is not tightened firmly.
After calibration I find that adjusting Z_HOME_POS by small amounts (fractions of the layer height) is needed to optimize print quality depending on nozzle size.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
David, yes, the adjustment by twisting the threaded rod would achieve the same effect but is more delicate so around 15 to 20 degrees is all that is needed.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
Looking at the figures, I can't see how they could come about from anything but a warped glass or a warp in the heatbed forcing the glass up. The glass is higher in the middle.
If the guage caused the glass to move then the figures would show the middle as lower where it has less support. I also can't see how turning the plate upside down would improve matters unless both the glass and the heatbe
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
I would calibrate some more. The right column of your figures are consistently higher than the left column suggesting that you could get down to 0.07mm with further adjustment even with the glass being warped.
That should then be ok for 0.2mm layer height. My guess is that the 2 screws corresponding to the right column need to be about 1/10th turn tighter.
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Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
Here's a heatbed:
and glass:
I think 8mm rod would sag with the longer length.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90
is quite strong. It is slightly too large so needs to be mounted obliquely. I have 2 and swap them for print cooling. The calibration doesn't seem sufficiently affected to lower print quality.
by
Ralph.Hilton
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Mendel90