Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 3 of 4
Pages: 1234
Results 61 — 90 of 97
Make sure the coldend is cool-warm to the touch. Also, hold onto the filament as it is going in and see if the stepper motor is skipping steps. Check the tention on the hobbed gear and see if it is slipping. Check that the thermistor is reading temps correctly. Mine read 275 when it was actually 235. Mine had all four of these problems and after fixing them, it worked extremely well.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Printing
my exstruder stepper is from a scanner, and the gear drive is too. Such a tiny motor does need fan forced cooling and it stays at 30 degrees celcius.. It runs a bowden exruder so there is extra friction. Other than that, the rest of my printer steppers usually measure about 5-10 degrees celcius.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Although it wouldnt protect a wiring fault, I put a thermal fuse in series with my hotend heater and mounted it to the hotend. That way, if the heater gets stuck on for some catastrophic reason, the thermal fuse would disconnect it.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
Nice! Do you know if I could make one without an sd card reader, and use my printrboard's onboard slot?
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
I just put wing nuts and springs on my bed and the endstop stops a little high, so I just twist the leadscrew down while it prints, and adjust wingnuts (hardly ever neccissary) and by the time that it lays down the skirt, the bed is perfect.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Did you make sure that the firmware doesnt have the endstops inverted? IE: normally closed vs. normally open? Mine are normally closed so If i forget to plug them in, it thinks that it is pressed and doesnt contiuously move. With normally open switches, unplugged equals not pressed.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Find a 10w 10ohm power resistor and heatsink it to a large metal surface. As for bad capacitors, if there are any, they just need to be desoldered and replaced with new ones. This is how to get free computer monitors on craigslist, they have the same fault.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Sound like a current protection kicking in. I always used ATX power supplies as a lab supply because I could short them out without releasing the magic blue smoke. put a voltmeter on the 12v rail and check the voltage. Make sure that it doesnt drop below 12. Then try hitting print without the heated bed connected. If it starts, then try a better power supply, or if it is an aged power supply, the
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Check current. Turn the current up in slight increments and run it for a while. You want the motors warm, but not too hot to touch, especially if they are mounted to PLA parts. I learned this the hard way. I have had 5 hour prints ruined because the motor skipped one friggin step 4 hours in. I wasnt happy considering that it was the end of the spool. Good luck!
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
I know you are using slic3r, but try curaengine. After starting with slic3r and then going to curaengine, my prints are considerably better and slicing takes like half the time of slic3r. I will admit that I liked slic3r's arsenal of settings, and that cura lacks quite a bit that slic3r does, but cura seems to be better overall. I originally switched because slic3rs raft is broken.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Printing
My extruder is running on a .8mm nozzle, homemade bowden tube (only needed 1mm retraction) and i generally print abs 100mm/s on a 280$ printer. My extruder motor is just a stepper with gear reduction assembly from a flatbed scanner. It works extremely well, and was originally part a direct drive. The entire extruder assembly weighed less than my original nema17. Interesting discovery though.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Have you checked the endstop offset options Or gcode? it seems maybe like a slicer problem. The endstop offset is to tweak the printhead starting height if the endstop cant be adjusted.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Printing
Stepper current is too low. The controller expects that every step of the motor is sucessfully performed. Also, look through other settings. Sometimes there are redundant settings.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Thanks for the posting, I will make sure to further tighten the screw after it heats up (just pladed an order from filastruder for a v6, discount code "reprap") This probably wouldnt happen with my anubis clone, as I drilled a hole deep into the block for my thermistor, and the heater wires are cable tied to the extruder mount So it cant slide out.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
The SD card slot may have done it. Measure resistance on the two wires that failed right at the LCD, desolder the sd card slot, and test again. Solder has irritating ways of ruining your day, and maybe it bridged a gap that wasnt within view. good thing this didnt happen on my printer as almost every part is flameable... right down to the cardboard box it is inside of O.o
I am kinda wondering if
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
These things are awesome:
I always go overspec on the wiring. I use 15A wire on my 5A bed.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
Buy a passive one with vents and activlely cool it. I have had very good luck with passive graphics cards and a slight airflow. Passively cooled parts are overbuilt, and a slight breeze can keep them well below the maximum recomended operating temp.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
I might have an idea. Did you check that the rotary encoder is connected correctly? I have heard that it can cause shorts if wired to the wrong pins. Which pin was it that drew all of this current? I am an electronics engineer (in the making) and I would be more than willing to help fix this.
Edit: does the main controller for the printer still work? I wonder if the display backlight pulled too
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
I feel sorry for you. Especially the crapple part. I dont like crapple computers either. My computer I print from is my gaming pc, and I really need a smart controller. gaming and printing dont work at the same time... My laptop has such an outdated graphics processor that it cant even render repetier host. Anyway, give them a fan or turn down the current. my nema17 motors run absolutely STONE CO
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
Now I want to put a thermal fuse or snapdisk on my hotend. seems like an easy alternative to having mosfet protection ect.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
If you have a heated bed and print in a non drafty environment, use ABS. If you do not have a heated bed, then ABS is a tricky filament to print in. PLA doesnt NEED a heated bed, but it can help. PLA is more brittle and is generally more expensive/harder to manufacture consistantly. I am printing ABS on a homemade heated bed, you just need to lay down some gluestick on the bed. I am very impresse
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
I need to make my own smart controller, but I was wondering if I can use my Printrboard clone's onboard MicroSD card slot instead of an external one on the controller. Anyone know if this can be done?
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
Does the firmware/eeprom configuration have a maximum temp defined?
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
General
My printer is a Twoup using the stock power supply to run both a 40w heated bed and a 40w hotend heater (HPB reaches 60 degrees degrees easily, and I havent many had any issues with ABS warp) But that is as high as it goes on 12v. As the printrboard clone can reach 20v, can I adjust the voltage trimmer on the stock power supply to obtain a higher voltage? I am wondering if it is designed as a var
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Safety & Best Practices
Anyone know how to check the version/upgrade curaengine in repetier host? I really need a smart controller so I dont have to use repeteir host for manual control. Then I can just use cura's software.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Slic3r
my stepper motor for my extruder runs quite warm, so I added a fan. It is a stepper motor from a consumer grade flatbed scanner though. nice and lightweight and the gear reduction that came with it makes it very strong. the whole extruder assembly weighs less than the nema17 motor alone that was on the old assembly.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Mechanics
Little bit late to the discussion, but I made mine out of paperclips, nichrome wire from a dead hairdryer, a fiberglass ceiling tile and some high temperature tape. heats up in a couple minutes, and havent had any ABS warp from it.
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Mechanics
QuoteGKpro
I am trying to get my head around the purpose of skirt, brim and raft. Please correct me if I am wrong. The purpose of brim is basically the same as skirt to get the plastic flowing smoothly except the brim is attached to the part whereas the skirt is separate from the part. Does it make sense to use both skirt and brim? While raft is used for a part with a small footprint, correct? Do
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Slic3r
Quotelumen
If a heated bed can solve the warping and other issues, then I think I'm going to try to convert one of those $18.00 griddles from walmart to a heat bed.
The 10-1/2" X 20" is a bit small for my printer but it should work for a test.
Has anyone had any luck doing this?
Seems like it woudnt be very acurate. My bed works very well, and it is just a sheet of document scanner glass with nic
by
iamdarkyoshi
-
Slic3r
Page 3 of 4
Pages: 1234