Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
it is very likely the problem is to do with the extrusion rate, do triple check and see, I did mine twice and it was a bit off the first time I done mine
ps, and I definitely not using 1mm/s acceleration 150mm/s is doable, but i never tried to go fast on outer parameter but inner it flies, I will push it further with full leadscrew drives but im moving away from prusa
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
It would ☺
by
deaconfrost
-
General
yea I only though of that when I printed out the idler and in the middle of printing the motor mount now, a bit late
I be building a different design altogether after putting the leadscrew on, just so I have a perfect 190mm height for the parts I need to print, it be a 300mm x 300mm x 400mm print area with full leadscrew drive. anti backlash on all axis
by
deaconfrost
-
General
did you turn the nozzle all the way in then loosen a bit and tighten the heat break? or how far away is the nozzle to the block?
I tighten mine all the way in then I lossen it just when the first dimple reach the corner, less than 1mm gap, I have the genuine v6 tho, maybe your nozzle is different
other than that and the PTFE tube, I don't think of any thing else right now, if the PTFE tube does
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
here's what I have set in marlin for stepping and speed
are you using stock extruder mounted on x carriage with groove bearing?
I'm using greg's wade with bowden on the E3D v6
I had similar problem on wall due to extruder stepping
if you still on stock extruder, that would be first place to start, slow down and print yourself a gear extruder like greg's wade or go bowden
just noticed you usi
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
its a good fit, smooth easy to turn no backlash, hope it last a while
going to draw the new parts to allow me to use a brass nut just in case the PLA get soften, but with such little movements on the Z axis Im hoping it won't come to that
printed at 0.1mm layer height without support
by
deaconfrost
-
General
I don't really know what type of glue they maybe, but worked well for me than the glue I have tried, especially with abs, first time i printed big object with abs without lift is when I tried that stuff, its cheap and I though I give it a go since I was getting something from that seller anyway.
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
thanks for the tip, Im going to use it on the Z axis so there be very little movement, hopefully it last long enough till I get my new design finished, if not I just have to go back to the old parts, I can't use the brass nut on this without making Z top Z bottom and new X idler and motor mount as it is an i3, finger crossed
by
deaconfrost
-
General
it is better to fix it yourself in 3D modelling application, the auto fix don't do it right a lot of the times I find
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I made some 10mm leadscrew nuts with PLA, 80% infill, it seems very solid and doesn't look like it would wear too fast, I think I will try that on a Mega i3 with 10mm leadscrew which I already have
anyone else tried using PLA for this? how long did it last before you need to replace the nut?
when I turn the nut on the leadscrew it doesn't feels like it would wear any time soon, but again, I nev
by
deaconfrost
-
General
if you going for the i3, build the mega i3 instead, it about the same money as buying the i3 kit thats half the size, I bought the mega i3 printed kit on ebay and bought the rest of the material in local hardware store, have the printer almost finished its costing me 150 so far without the hotend and electronics yet, im transferring everything from my small i3 to it so it is only costing me 150 d
by
deaconfrost
-
General
the only thing I can tell you is I worked my way up slowly adjusting the settings starting fom 40mm/s and observe the changes of the result and adjust, again and again and again, think it was about 3 to 4 weeks of trying different settings and layer heights before I got to the result I feel acceptable.
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
good choice to go for the real deal, I have had no jam since I got mine, as long as it is all setup correctly, I don't think you get any headache at all, I didn't and still haven't
by
deaconfrost
-
General
you have the Z stepping calibrated properly? and extruder stepping.
it looks like theres a problem on every part of the printed object rather than just the circular part
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
if your first layer isn't sticking, I found a solution for myself, maybe useful for you
I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly a
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly a square box but it was that big, start to finish not a single lift
can't find link I bou
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly a square box but it was that big, start to finish not a single lift
can't find link I bou
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I use this stuff, its cheap and worked really well as advertised, I tried all 3 material they listed and all worked out perfect, 8 euro a pack goes a long way, I used just little under half the pack and I got 40+ prints out of it so far, with the biggest part being 185mm x 185mm x 185mm in size, not exactly a square box but it was that big, start to finish not a single lift
can't find link I bou
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
its not only PETG, my ABS did the same, don't think its material related, happened to 2 of my borosilicate glass, I haven't been bothered with glass since, just print straight on the MK3 bed with solution I bought on ebay for 8 euro, not a bit of lift, no more broken glass. it stick even better than the glass
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I print abs with bed at 100c plus start to finish and 245c to 250c on hotend, but without a fan running between 30% to 40% from 3rd layer up there was no way my print ever finish without curling from 4th layer up, first layer is easy to me, I bought some printing paste off ebay for 8 euro, lasted 40 plus print still have more than half the pack left, I als have an enclosure made from foam pads
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I printed this with FolgerSHIT i3 as well but at 150mm/s, but MK3 bed, Genuine E3D v6, Greg Wade Bowden Drive, and use newer firmware configured from scratch with autobed leveling enabled
I have't tried any faster yet, 150mm/s is good enough for me for now
p.s. leadscrew upgrade and this and that, its not really a FolgerSHIT anymore TBH and that hammer was printed with ABS by the way
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
my folgerShit i3 hotned fall apart too during print, kinda steered me away from cheap knock off and I went for the genuine E3D v6 bought direct from them in UK, just to make sure I get the real thing, I couldn't be happier to be honest, I did a 0.03mm print on a small little ball, that never happened with the FolgerShit, be lucky to get a clean print let alone such high res.
by
deaconfrost
-
General
a little late to reply to this, a company in Ireland is releasing a printer frame kit for around 500 euro without electronics but all mechanical parts, like a ultimaker style with no belts, dual hotend ready witha print volume of 300mm x 300mm x 360mm
by
deaconfrost
-
General
Your heat bed on z axis. You sure the z motors steps are correct?
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
cool thanks I get one now
gonna get some other bits for the new frame while I'm there if they have them
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
Thanks for the replies. I think I buy that one from reprapteile now ☺
ps... sold out
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
got a link for one of them???
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
any body used this type of hobbed bolt?
?
its giving me a hard time if I was to do a long print, it seems the thread of the bolt is pushing the filament to one side regardless the groove is lined up with the guide.
i'm going to get this one to replace it
[:AAQ:GB:1123" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">www.ebay.co.uk]
hopefully that sort out the problem, what my hobbed bolt doing is it have a
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I played around in the firmware, got the probe to measure 0,0 with offset set on nozzle being -31 on y axis, now that corner is perfect, but the opposite corner in diagonal is slightly higher, WTF???
it actually seems ok, it is still printing the first layer, I open the door and try scrap off the corners while its doing the infill, they won't butch, couldn't lift them with a thin blade, thats go
by
deaconfrost
-
Printing
I got 5 spools from E3D in UK when I bought the hotel kit, 2 abs 2 PET clear and 1 pla, abs print at 230 to 240 nicely with 40% fan speed, PET clear prints the best at 230 with fan speed at 40% the best print I've seen, play print at 190c with full fan speed, all can bridge with no support perfect, bought from 4 places so far, E3D brand seems best so far, lowset temp I ever use to print, filament
by
deaconfrost
-
General