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Printing issues ...
Yes all good and tight. Except I hear an occasional click sound from the z axi threaded rod. Which is the one over by 0,0 I replaced that with brand new rod and nut. After one print and it's doing the same, click click at certain height. Then I replaced both side. Again after first print, click click click, everything else are in good shape, smooh rods are straight no bend. I'm puzzled.
Ps. I e
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
just started to test on big print that very much utilize the whole bed, its 200mm x 200mm, and my model size is lat on the bed 160mm x 160mm, also tried 140mm x 140mm, same result
the 10mm/s on the corner of 0,0 always about 0.2mm or 0.3mm higher, which makes it 0.4 to 0.5mm with a 0.2mm first layer causing not stocking flat on the bed, I haven't let it print for long, 4 layers and I stopped it,
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I printed this with 40% fan speed, it is impossible for me to print with no fan on at all, everything will curl like mad from 3rd layer on regardless of layer height. bed at 110c and hotend at 230c, printer inside encloser
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deaconfrost
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General
Would be easier if bed on z axis with bowden drive. You can use rubber liner for the z platforms arms that goes to the threaded rods or leadscrew which can be located outside the chamber without draft. It will be very little even if there is a slight leak. Wouldn't be enough to effect anything. Design a gear drive to mount x and y motors above frame to drive those 2 axis without motor inside the
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deaconfrost
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General
thats a very good idea, but I think I need a little more than that, I'm using the big fan duct now that blows around the model, at 50% fan speed, seem to be working one well
maybe I could make a fan duct to suck from behind the heat sink actually
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deaconfrost
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General
I also converted my i3 to bowden with wade gear. It has improve the print quality and speed. Plus the stock setup was always giving trouble. Filament jam on stepper gear everyday with the stock setup. That's from folger tech
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deaconfrost
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General
Yes they about 2 months in the box with silica gel. I do have the printer enclosed. Haven't got any new abs layer around. I printed with the silver abs and that doesn't needs cooling just like I used to print. No fan and enclosed. Only the yellow is having trouble which was perfect when freshly opened. Both were opened the same day 2 months ago.
by
deaconfrost
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General
I print with 100c plus on the bed, it can get up to 112c. I used to print without fan on and was perfect. Suddenly that had changed for no reason. Now I have to use cooling... or it curl everywhere. ...
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deaconfrost
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General
printed a 20mm cube again all same settings but with a different duct, maybe 0.6 is a little too thing for its size but no curl, going to try tackle the cracking by lower to 230c and thicker walls
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deaconfrost
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General
another note, add the gcode in your slicer before you sllice it, then you dont have to edit them
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deaconfrost
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General
have you try adding gcode g1 z.1 after g29?
that brings nozzle to 0.1mm where the measured is, may not look right but it is actually correct when it prints, you might have to try a few times to get the distance bang on when it actually prints, on my setup for some funny reason, it looks to be 1mm off the bed while waiting for hotend to heat up but once it starts to print, its perfect
by
deaconfrost
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General
for some strange reason, I was unable to print abs without it curling from 3rd or 4th layers up, first layer is perfectly flat and stuck to the bed, so I went on and print with PET for a day, with cooling at 100% from 3rd layer on, hoping to keep more transparent finish but didn't make much different, print was perfect, with 0% infill it managed to do skin fill without dropping thanks to the fan
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deaconfrost
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General
Sounds promising what configuration have you ran on them?
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deaconfrost
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General
or this one with the option to upgrade to 6 extruders
T3P3D Duet 0.8.5
I have a RPi2 running in a robot, I can't say how much better it might be or not, its my first RPi, but it seems quick enough for now
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deaconfrost
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Printing
yea I'm thinking about getting the combo they sell.
by
deaconfrost
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General
did you check if the thermistor is firmly attach to the heat block, also the thermistors comes with Folger Tech aren't really good, at least mine weren't, everyday I get mintemp error because it reads below 5c no matter the room temperature, I replaced both my thermistors with Semitec 100k Ohm NTC, and I have had no problem ever since, matter of what, my Folger Tech isn't much of a Folger Tech an
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I know some of you guru here have experience with the Duet plus Duex setup, I'm thinking of using them on the big printer so I can run 6 hotends, 3 for big prints 3 for smaller prints. W I ld appreciated any input, tips and tricks
Thanks
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deaconfrost
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General
I rerouted the wires and it seems all good now went through 4 prints without touching anything thanks for all the input everyone.
Tanks davew_tx I will have a read on that. Will be useful either way when I build my big printer
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deaconfrost
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General
If all fail I may look in to using a relay and a 5v psu so
That ks for the tip
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deaconfrost
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General
I will check the wires, I'm running bowden and the stepper is fairly far away. But thw wires do meet at some point, maybe I separate them and see how it goes.
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deaconfrost
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General
checked the servo gears, today, they are perfect, no binding nor damaged, tested servo on the receiver, no problem with it..... problem must be somewhere else
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deaconfrost
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General
I'll check the gears and see if that's the case. But it was never hit before the first crash happened, and I stopped it as soon as it happened so no damaged was done to anything other than not sure about the servo gears, I have a metal version was a tail servo with a burned out board from a rc 450 size heli, I could use the gear from it
I didn't have to use much force on the arm, it slide in smo
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deaconfrost
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General
It's been working well for a while then after getting everything going great for few days and this happens, haven't found anything googling.
Sometimes the servo moves to set position, sometimes it doesn't, luckily I spot it in time to hit emergency stop. And now it's like every second time the servo is off by 5 to 10 degree, there for it will slip and crash the hotend in to the glass. Anyone eve
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deaconfrost
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General
I use a genuine E3D v6 hotend, and I bought 5 spool of filaments 2 months ago, 4 opened, I switch them every now and then depends what I am printing, I have abs at 235c to 240c, pla 195c, PET 230c, only problem I ever had was caused by the extruder, not the hotend, I am now using infill 3d direct drive and have no issue whatsoever, I made the greg wade geared extruder with scew-in for 10mm bowden
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deaconfrost
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Printing
Quoteepicepee
Quote What do you expect for a free product
...Because paid antivirus works so much better...
Seriously, Avira and Avast are good enough for most purposes. If the machine is important enough that you're considering paying for antivirus, use Linux.
I second that
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deaconfrost
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General
I have the i3, and I've upgraded my extruder to greg's wade with bowden addon, mounted the motor extruder at top of te frame, inline with filament spool, I'm in the process of modifying the greg's wade gear extruder to run a worm gear to drive the filament.
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deaconfrost
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General
I could stripe down the iron and use it to heat the bed if I can spread the inside around a bit
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deaconfrost
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General
Thanks for that info, exactly what I need, now I'm looking forward to get this monster built
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deaconfrost
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General
I can wire up a 12v relay to D8 to drive the bed that's not a problem. But what components should I get to build it that way? I don't really mind running a single high power 12v psu either. They have come down in price a lot these days, I remember the days I use to pay 150+ for the pc's psu to run 4 hdds, sli and what not on a 1kw plus psu. I don't think I would need that kind of power to run the
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deaconfrost
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General
I need to build a heat bed as I am building a large printer, I found the use of resistor to build a 400mm x 400mm heat bed from Mega i3 instructions, the question is, I want to build a 800mm x 800mm heat bed, going by the instructions, I will need to use 16 of them resistors for the size I hope to build, anybody have any idea which resistor I need for this setup, I can work out I need 16ohm resis
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deaconfrost
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General