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Printing issues ...
When your print finishes does the nozle move away from the print? Just wondering if the hump is oozing. If not you may want to set the end code to home X or something. What is your retraction setting?
Distortion horizontal to a feature such as a hole is common. Can't offer a solution but there are a lot of examples in this forum. The solution is probably quite involved and may require delving int
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Possibly a temperature issue. If its cycles too low it stops extruding. This is not always so clear if you have a bowden tube as the filament can deflect in the bowden instead of causing grinding at the extruder. May also be why you print slow.
What control board are you using.
Try to verify the temperature is correct. Experiment with increased temperature to see if it improves. This wont cure th
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Assuming 1.75mm diam filament it has to feed at 4.67mm/s, 6.55, 6.81 and for the 0.6mm height it was 3.74.
So tends to get worse with feed rate - may be the temperature issue. You may want to increase temperature with the feed rate.
0.6 layer height will be an issue as it just falls out the nozzle without any compression.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
It would be nice to know what you identified as the problem when you try and print faster.
As Frank suggested its possible the limit is due to the hot end/extruder and not the nozzle.
If you can feed the filament fast enough it still needs to be in the hot end long enough to melt.
So you can open the diameter of the internals of the hot end to allow more material to sit there for longer - makes d
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I don't use PLA but from what others have posted 200C may be high for PLA.
Im not sure its an extruder issue.
Have a good look at Z calibration and the drive mechanism. Im not familiar with the machine but had a look online. Errors in the layer height can make it appear like under or over extrusion. What layer height are you using? Very small layers are affected by very small errors.
Looks like t
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Very basic:-
Cut the end of new filament at an angle. This creates an off centre point. When feeding the filament it can snag on joints, ferules etc. This is less likely with the point and if it does you can rotate the filament by hand to get the point away from the joint.
I use ABS and leave the filament loaded. If you are going to extract or retract the filament I suggest you cut the old end of
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MCcarman
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General
Rule of thumb for max layer height is 75-80% of nozzle diameter so you should be around 0.32 layer height.
You are using 3mm filament so you will need to be careful with extruder calibration as a small error at the extruder will have a big effect at the nozzle.
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Layer thickness looks high. Usual recommendation is no greater than 80% of nozzle diameter.
Temperature column seems to indicate 180-185 is where you want to be.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Might be worth a new software feature - min perimeter time.
With all those parts your layer time is going to be quite long so the feature wont help much.
But on the small cylinders the problem may be that each perimeter is causing the problem. How many perimeters have you set?
If you set the perimeters to 1 it should laydown all the perimeters and then return for the infill by which time the per
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Just a different approach.
Its easy to think we can print anything but some times its worth stepping back. Especially as you could spend a lot of time and never get a good result.
If had several instances with similar problems and found its often simpler to use another manufacturing approach.
In this case you can try printing the cylinders with a nominal hole of say 1mm and then drill the centre
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I was sure I posted this yesterday. Try again.
Are you sure this is not the normal issue with printing small items?
If the time for a layer is low the filament doesn't have enough time to cool and the next layer drags the previous layers material about. This may look like your hitting it.
Standard solutions are:-
Insert pauses in the GCODE so each layer has time to cool.
Print several parts at th
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Don't have much experience on this but in the interests of giving you some support:-
Assuming you have a 0.4 nozzle the extrusion width is about right for normal printing but could be an issue for bridging. I still run mine on auto so the software can adjust it.
Too higher an extrusion temperature? I would have thought 220 was an OK number but could be under reporting if the thermistor is loose.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Sorry I don't follow your bed levelling procedure.
For I3s with fixed homing switches you home the Z axis so the switch triggers. That sets the Z height to Zero. Then you adjust the bed height to a small gap - paper thickness, then you have to put the paper thickness in the slicer as the Z offset (negative value). You should never set the gap to more than the layer height. Don't know what paper
by
MCcarman
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Printing
May not be the problem but I suspect your Z height calibration may be out.
I can't see much evidence of squish on the skirt layers.
Do the bed levelling and ensure you put the Z-offset in the slicer. The bed is below the nozzle so its a negative (-) value.
Reduce 1st layer height to 0.35.
Reduce 1st layer extrusion width to 150%.
Hope that helps
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MCcarman
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Printing
I suspected that was true so im glad some one has proved it.
After a bit of thought I will suggest its related to the speed difference between infill and perimeters.
We usually do infill faster than perimeters so if you have the largest surface in the X-Y plane (50 x 50) you print a lot of infill (fast). The height is then layers of perimeters (due to thin wall). If you put the side in X-Y (50 x
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Z-Hop should have worked. What settings did you use? I don't know Cura but it may not be enough to just turn it on. You have to set a height. JM said its "Z hop on retraction" so you may need to have retraction turned on as well.
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MCcarman
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Printing
You don't say what material you are using but the other common issue with PLA is a combination of temperature and retraction. Seems you have a Bowden so retraction should be a significant value.
A smaller layer height and a lower speed reduces the flow rate that means there is more time for heat to soak up the filament so if its temperature related it could make the issue worse.
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MCcarman
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Printing
Another approach is to print a mould then use this to make a wax model. The wax model can then be potted in the plaster mould and melted out. You will be limited to designs where the mould can be disassembled without damaging the wax. You will also need to take care with printer resolution and removing the wax model as our printers produce ribbing on the sides that will "lock" the wax in place.
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MCcarman
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General
Possibly over extrusion causing the nozzle to flatten the bead. Where it stops and starts the filament can go sideways and it forms a ridge. The diagonal drag mark shows you don't have a lift on move value set.
I am not familiar with cura so can't tell you the exact settings.
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MCcarman
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Printing
In Slic3r there is a distance from object parameter. I typically run 1 loop at 6mm from objects and only 1 layer.
You don't say what your printing but if you are printing a single object that's less than about 25mm x 25mm you can run into issues with detail as well so print 2 parts at the same time. (Generates a larger skirt to help the 1st layer)
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Have a look at the temperature control to check its stable. Could be oscillating between too hot and too cold. I would turn the fan off for now to ensure its not blowing on the hot end.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Top layers a bit odd. Looks like one axis has a calibration error accumulating across the print. Check axis calibration for all axis.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Forgive me if this is completely wrong. I have no experience of this process. But I was confused by the video.
You seemed to home using the sensor then set the bed to nozzle gap and call this the offset. Is that the correct sequence? Offset is usually the difference between the nozzle and the sensor switching height. So it would be the distance you lower the nozzle to touch the paper + the paper
by
MCcarman
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General
We are assuming this is PLA as 205C is low for ABS.
A few comments:-
Layer heights of 0.4 is high for a 0.4 nozzle. Rule of thumb is don't go above 75%-80% of diameter so reduce layers to 0.32.
You have a Z offset of Zero which tells the slicer the print bed as at the tip of the nozzle. I doubt that. I t should be the distance the bed is below the nozzle. As set when you levelled the bed. For pap
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Did some quick sums and if its 1.75mm filament at 6 steps per mm then 1 step is about 3.2mm extrusion from a 0.4mm nozzle.
Since steppers just move between steps you only extrude when moving then just get leakage when it stops. So if the number of steps is low you could get extrusion as pulses instead of a smooth flow.
Speed also has an influence, but I would think you want enough steps and a goo
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MCcarman
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General
Does fit with a poorly calibrated Z axis. If you request movement to z=100 do you get 100. Since you have zero in the Z offset (should be the distance between the bed and nozzle when homed ) usually about -0.15 for paper, your 1st layer is theoretically too large but if your z is calibrated low it will effectively counteract this until layer 2 or 3 when you are effectively over extruding. This ma
by
MCcarman
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Printing
As you were printing at 190c we assume your using PLA so 230 is way to hot and explains the brown marks and the stringing. So I would set it back to 190.
Then you check if you can push the filament through by hand. If so the issue is the extruder as O-lampe has pointed out.
From the picture it looks like the idler arm gets very close to the mounting block so check you have clearance and good spri
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I really wish I could help you.
We know one drive is out of sync with the other hence the diagonal shift.
The shift is progressive in one direction. So its not just something loose or it would be variable.
The shifts are less than belt pitch so its not jumping teeth.
The motors have D shafts so the gears can't slip progressively round the motor.
The motors are different but they have been swappe
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MCcarman
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Printing
Do you mean the 2nd layer is the issue?
What is your layer height, nozzle size, Z offset etc. ?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Quote I haven't tried any Z offset yet, as it seems that it would have the same affect as lowering the first layer height
Very different things. What did you set the bed gap to? If you set it with a feeler gauge you must have a gap and that should be your Z offset.
If your feeler gauge is 0.15, your first layer height is (0.2 x 0.9) = 0.18 and you have 0 Z offset the nozzle will be at Z = 0.18 b
by
MCcarman
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Printing