Show all posts by user
And sorry to hijack your chocolate thread, it's all useful info
by
UkIan
-
General
So you would just switch the jumpers to some new combo which represented 32ms and off it would go?
Any down sides to 32 x microstepping? Torque, etc?
by
UkIan
-
General
That's good to know, I'd like to keep temps to a minimum generally for all sorts of reasons.
by
UkIan
-
General
Ramps with 4998 drivers Imo. Even if you could find a use for three extruders, you'll find it hard to drive them all with the available software.
Question for each of you
Is chocolate hard to melt? I mean does it have a narrow band ewen Molton and burnt?
Does anything support the 8825's 32x Microsteps? They seem price wise not far off the 4998
by
UkIan
-
General
Belt could be slipping,
Stepper could be over/under powered,
Acceleration in firmware too high,
Pinion gear not secured on Stepper shaft.
In your slicer you can set different types speeds for different types of move. This could be the travel move, which is usually set very fast, making the system skip a step and think it is in a different position. Depending on your model the first time you
by
UkIan
-
General
If you must use tape, wd40 is excellent rather than spirits.
by
UkIan
-
General
I made that mistake. I soldered to only one negative. I fixed it and was rewarded with the brightest blue led in existence.
by
UkIan
-
General
It needs to be about 1.4ohm if used with RAMPS and half that if with the seven switch. I have a cunning plan though. As I need to halve it, I'm going to have two heating loops in series and just disable one as necessary. I think that will do the trick
by
UkIan
-
Controllers
I'm building a new heated bed at the moment, mine won't go over 100degrees as it is and that's with cork backing :/
by
UkIan
-
General
I'm building a heated bed, it will draw more current than ramps will allow, so I was wondering about the effect of putting either a pot or just a single resistor in series to raise the resistance so I can drive it off ramps. I'm looking at a seven switch, but it would be nice to use the bed now.
The question is;I'm using resistance to make heat, so will the pot or resistor get astoundingly hot?
by
UkIan
-
Controllers
I've got some abs printing to do. So far I am getting good results with a 90degrees bed and a light wipe of slurry over kapton, all at 235degrees.
I know the hotter you go the more noxious gas vents, but I don't know what temps people are using, and just as important, why.
by
UkIan
-
General
It's amazing you can actually get a mirror like finish on MDF, but the work involved is ... involved.
6mm rods seem awfully flimsy, now I've got some lengths of 8mm I was considering 12mm myself.
by
UkIan
-
Mendel90
I've just built my first, but not a delta, and I'm looking for something to do for a second one
by
UkIan
-
General
It's a delta right? Did you go for a kit, or all home made?
by
UkIan
-
General
The linear bearing moves along the length of the rod (obviously) and should feel smooth and almost friction free. They won't turn very well around the shaft, i.e. as if you were turning them with a spanner. That might be obvious, but I think it's worth mentioning.
They can sound scratchy, but the important thing is they move freely along the length, so if you've got bearings that are stiff, that
by
UkIan
-
General
I got a couple of J-Heads from this guy. I'm using one now,it's actually replaced my E3D hot end which was having some issues and it is working perfectly with a 0.4mm nozzle.
Question: When you talk about wanting to hit 250mm/s, are you talking about printing at 250mm/s or extruding filament at that speed? I'm guessing it's the latter and you mean mm/min, or something else?
by
UkIan
-
General
It uses three 623zz bearings for each corner of the carriage, each bearing at 120degrees from the other. There's a video at the end which shows half the carriage running along one 8mm smooth rod.
The important thing is, it feels slippery no matter what angle you pull at it, it isn't affected by skew in the way that the traditional linear bearings are.
It's only a prototype obviously, I'm amaz
by
UkIan
-
Mechanics
I've just switched out my e3d hotend because it started sticking. I'm using a jHead now, which I got from a UK based person who makes them. I'm both delighted and horrified how much better my prints are using it. I don't think I'll leave JHead land again unless I start printing something that needs the heat resistance.
by
UkIan
-
General
Yes, it's like repetier in that you can select which slicer to use, but it's their own slicer that I'm interested in.
by
UkIan
-
General
Cura hasn't been a success for me, and I don't know why. I am planning to give it another go. I'm starting to get the hang of Slic3r, but I don't like the way it does support material.
I'm with you on the UI. On the PC it looks like a Metro app, very flat, not a lot of distinction between regions, plain rectangles for controls. It's not a good look imo. But you're right of course, if it makes my
by
UkIan
-
General
Yeah, Nophead was talking about "something" on his blog, and someone in the comments mentioned they would run "it" through MatterSlice so thought I'd google it. There's not much information around about the slicer part, it's run by MatterHackers.
Might play with it later though
by
UkIan
-
General
Stumbled across this after reading nophead's blog. Not sure about the metro style up, but it seems like a nice evolution. Any one heard of it or used it?
by
UkIan
-
General
There are rod options?
For the m mdf I know all about painting, it's a dark art to get a good, durable finish what is interesting is that once I start factoring in paint, the composite might be a similar price.
by
UkIan
-
Mendel90
It can sound like it's clogging if the power is too low, it pushes with more force if you increase the voltage, until you've adjusted it above its limit at which point it starts clicking and clacking and generally failing. If you can, try pushing on the filament from the top to give it a helping hand, this will just rule out the extruder, I'm not suggesting you sit there pushing for all your prin
by
UkIan
-
General
What temperature are you printing and what material? What speed are you doing the actual print at? 100mm/min = about 1.5mm/sec of filament which is quite slow, 300mm/min = 5mm/sec.
Pronterface is good in that you can tell it to extrude a length at a certain speed. So you could try extruding 30cm at 1mm a second and increase until you get binding. The temperature will be relevant here.
What ele
by
UkIan
-
General
The early Mendel 90 was built with MDF 12mm iirc, the new ones use composite ali Dibond. (I assume the middle ones used some sort of acrylic??
Anyway, dibond seems really expensive, MDF 12 or even 9mm is cheap by comparison. Acrylic sheets not too keen on.
Is there anything I'd need to change dramatically if I followed the plans for the current Mendel 90 and used MDF 12mm?
Would 9mm be suffici
by
UkIan
-
Mendel90
Yep, I'd cut it to size first, it just came in 2m lengths. Actually 3m was significantly cheaper, but I figured it was more likely to have bent in transit plus I'd have to bring it home on the train...
It actually arrived affixed to a length of wood, so was very well protected and pretty straight
I don't have a lathe, but I have a drill press, and I imagine I can do the same in that
by
UkIan
-
General
Nophead published this recently. How to clean a nozzle.
by
UkIan
-
General
Quotecakeslob
Its not going to work very well. thats why the latest revisions are not hbot. i was building the hbot folda2 on my own as he posted the files and all the different versions. .
the plastic corner brackets make it flimsy and the y axis sliders do not have near enough rigity and to much flex. also over constrained so they just flex .
Bearing wise? I had the same problem. 8mm rods and
by
UkIan
-
CoreXY Machines