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Hi, I installed 40mm fan on my prusa last night and did a hollow cube test;
material abs
walls 3
bottom 0
top 1
infill 0
auto fan enabled
fan on at layer 5
min fan 35%
max fan 100%
To my concern was that, when the fan turned on, the bed temp suddenly dropped as low as 95'c when it was originally 110'c and my heated bed unable to go up again, only around 100'c max when using the fan and the cube
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sarf2k4
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Printing
what about your xy jerk setting? as much as I remember from Tom's guide, he stated setting the jerk too low would produce bumpy finish on the location where layer change occurred, while too high will produce ripple effect
For my settings
accel xy = 1000
xy jerk = 10-15
slic3r:
speed settings
outer perimeter = 50%
perimeter = 60mm/s
retraction around 1mm
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sarf2k4
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Printing
what about your eeprom acceleration values?
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sarf2k4
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General
Try print faster speed, especially with these settings at hand
speed 60mm
nozzle 190'c
all speed should be roughly around 100% (slic3r) except the bridging speed.
Try these settings first and see how it turn out to be
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sarf2k4
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General
Quotebuilt350camaro
Quotesarf2k4
if you're considering getting a full kit with bowden addon, probably you should be considering a mount that can be converted into either direct or bowden type. My design can be converted but so far I've been using only direct drive
Can I see this design?
Here you go , I recommend you to use the scad file to configure the screw holes you want. I am still working
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
if you're considering getting a full kit with bowden addon, probably you should be considering a mount that can be converted into either direct or bowden type. My design can be converted but so far I've been using only direct drive
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I don't think you're able to unbend the lead screws, it will just backlash or bent more if you try it, my suggestion is to use anti wobble here but unsure how is your printer is setup for the z axis carriage
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Well, I myself uses e3d v6 and never had any clog issues yet, the last clogging issue i had isn't really on the nozzle or heater block area, rather the part of heatbreak entrance were blocked by the chipped plastic fell into it
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I ran into slight hitch on my 3d printer, using geeetech i3b, mega2560 and ramps 1.4. I have servo based auto bed leveling.
My printer somewhat doesn't want to print after probing all the 9 points of the bed and currently I need to power the mega by supplying a little bit of 5v through usb.
My question is, is it okay to add in another 12v to the black power input in the mega2560 and will it
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sarf2k4
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Safety & Best Practices
Hi, this is a great thread, but most of them had no picture or insufficient or hardly can be seen without marker. Can those be fixed?
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sarf2k4
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Printing
Quotebonmotwang
Quotesarf2k4
I print using ABS, turned out to be perfect, well, I did estep calibration already, basically default esteps from the supplier of my geeetech i3b, 95 steps/mm. What's left is just the extruded plastic multiplier
Maybe you could try printing it on 190'c, furthermore, using 180'c with 100mm/s seems too fast for the heater block to melt the plastic or couldn't even keep
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sarf2k4
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General
Not enough picture to see the actual problem, from what I can see there, you might have an uneven bed making some layer probably layer 2-3 merged with the layer before it
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sarf2k4
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Printing
what firmware did you get from google actually? from the sound of it looks like you're trying to burn a bootloader
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sarf2k4
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General
I print using ABS, turned out to be perfect, well, I did estep calibration already, basically default esteps from the supplier of my geeetech i3b, 95 steps/mm. What's left is just the extruded plastic multiplier
Maybe you could try printing it on 190'c, furthermore, using 180'c with 100mm/s seems too fast for the heater block to melt the plastic or couldn't even keep up, maybe try lower your spe
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sarf2k4
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General
I only can confirm you that your problem lies on the temp being too high, I only know pla maxed at 210 or 190 depends on the makers. Also do some extrusion calibration to get exact extrusion multiplier for your setup.
Messing out with e-steps is a bad idea because you'll end up wasting lots of prints to get exact extrusion, changing filament form other makers would requires you to waste a lot p
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sarf2k4
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General
Here is the video , I also made changes to the list of gcodes in reprap wiki adding that missing command
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sarf2k4
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General
I didn't see any problem why supplying power through usb would make the printer doing its job right away rather than not. When not connected after it has stopped there, I tried navigating but the response somewhat laggy
I think I didn't provide marlin info, I use marlin dev 1.1.0, downloaded right around a month ago
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sarf2k4
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General
I will make a video on the solution to this, hopefully by this week
I am using from sd card, although after g29 are done, the head hovers on top of the bed by about 20mm, and supposed to go down to z at 0mm after going to the middle of the bed, but without connecting the usb, it just sits there. There is some response when controlling the knob, but somewhat slower response. I tried waiting for a
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sarf2k4
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General
I got the probe z offset problem solved by the way, but my current issues is that I need to supply my chinese arduino (ch340 ftdi) with usb power to start print. Whenever the printer finished probing g29, it moves to the center of the bed, it just stuck there and doing nothing where it supposed to go to z 0.00 to lay down the plastic. In overall, I need the chinese arduino powered through usb for
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sarf2k4
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General
From what I see in tom's review on printrbot, the other end of the wire hook up at the heater block, I'm not sure whether if it's the sensor wire or the thermistor though, but another think is the round metal plate, casting it won't be cheap for it not to mention a machine to shape it. one flaw is that the glass might break anytime if the bed are very uneven.
Maybe can just use the screw mount f
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sarf2k4
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hi, I am finding for a 3d scanner that has a good support and the most recommended model. Reason being that one of my friend has a 3d scanner but it has a very poor support leaving their 3d scanner useless.
I only know that david sls 3d scanner are good but a friend of mine didn't get any answers when asking for its price.
There are no maximum budget on this one and preferably the one that is a
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sarf2k4
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3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
ahh... that's a good one, I think e3d v6 also has one extra screw hole that can be used for this, but don't know how well the wire can hold up to 280'c though, and the metal corner can be hard to get too unless a custom machined aluminum/metal corner for the bed
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sarf2k4
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Hi, I did post this kind of problem before in prusa i3 section but that was long ago and after that I decided to go probeless. Only recently I used the servo based auto bed leveling, I still having the same problem I had on the other post
Currently, the probe offset were set properly on the config.h and here is my probe section settings and my servo sections. My only problem was, marlin seems to
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sarf2k4
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General
On my update, I had to ditch all geeetech based boards, gt2560 and geeetech sanguino 1.3a, because both are unable to use the "conventional" full graphic lcd panel, reason being nothing were shown, even with 20x4 panel (both are not from geeetech, one came with kit were busted from the start). Also using them you might encounter the stepstick not compatible with the board. If you have a working l
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
It depends on your printer structure type though, shouldn't you be posting your printer as well so that we are able to provide you an alternative to it? By the way, here's my setup in video, I didn't run the wire underneath the bed
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
You won't break the lcd if you switched between sd and lcd wires. But from my experience, these geeetech based boards, gt2560, sanguino also, literally its somewhat the pins are mapped or switched for their own product especially the lcd from their product lines only
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'm having the same issue, using ramps 1.4 to drive servo, but it's not working, before plugging it to the ramps 1.4 I tested it with my arduino uno and it works, currently I didn't test it after plugging it to ramps 1.4.
I think there's a bit of problem in marlin or something,
I can only answer your second question, I tried using inductive sensor, If you already have aluminum bed, you can jus
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants
Bear in mind that some of the tools listed above are slicer tools only while some of them controls your printer through usb.
Since you're using geeetech printer, I'm sure you have lcd panel with sd card support. You could just send the gcode generated with slic3r or cura or simplify3d or any gcode/slicer tools you want to the sdcard, then put the sdcard into the lcd panel and you're good to go t
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sarf2k4
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Prusa i3 and variants