I wasn't complaining about the prices. And I apologize if I came off that way. Your hot end is a very good price. I was merely wondering if the prices were stated in Australian or U.S. dollars. Even with the price of the shipping, your product is very much in line with all of the others. Miltby mondo50m - Smart_Rap
Interested here, but the shipping costs are terrible. The calculator says it is almost $15.00. Is that Australian or US dollars? Miltby mondo50m - Smart_Rap
I had the same problem. I got 8mm smooth rod that was tight against the lm8uu bearing that I purchased. I decided to purchase 5/16" smooth rod and they worked just fine. It is hard to know if the problem is really the rods or the quality of the bearings. So, I did what worked for me. The 5/16" rods are slightly smaller than 8mm. Miltby mondo50m - Reprappers
Bad Arduino Mega 2560. All is good again. Miltby mondo50m - RAMPS Electronics
Bad Arduino Mega 2560. Replaced it with a spare and all is ok. Now I just have to flash the proper firmware. But, all is good. Miltby mondo50m - General
I have posted this on another (general) forum, but I feel I should give it a try here. I melted my extruder by plugging it in to the fan wire. Of course there was no regulation on the temp and the extruder melted. I bought and replaced the extruder and the thermister. Now, the display and Repetier are returning a temperature of 190 degrees and there is no heat on the extruder and the thermistby mondo50m - RAMPS Electronics
Not that I am aware of. I just put in a different ramps card and get the same results as above. This pretty much narrows it down to the arduino or the firmware. Could I possibly need to reprogram the mega 2560? Although I do not know how that could have gone bad. This all happened because of a 64 year old brain fart. After cleaning the extruder and hot end, I plugged the thermister into thby mondo50m - General
Further observations: I have disconnected all of the cabling going to the ramps board. The display still reads 199 degrees. Seems like it keeps going up? I disconnect the USB cable and plug it back in and it reads 199 degrees. I try to reset the display and it locks up. But would the display have anything to do with it, I think not. I just can not understand why it starts out at 199 degreeby mondo50m - General
OK, I tried another thermistor. Even when there is no thermistor connected to the printer, it still reads 198 degrees. For some reason the ramps believes that the temp of the hotend is 198 degrees, even when the thermistor is not plugged in, and the power is cut to the hot end.by mondo50m - General
I will try another thermister. Hopefully that is it. If i tell the hot end to go to a temperature above 180, the hot end will heat up. Scary!!! Miltby mondo50m - General
I have just had a need to replace the thermister on my hotend. Before I even plugged in the hotend or thermister, I plugged the USB cable into the controller (ramps 1.4) and the display came on as it should. But it is displaying a temperature of 180 degrees for the hot end. The bed is displaying Zero. I have not even plugged in the thermister yet. After I plug in the thermister, it still reaby mondo50m - General
Try supplies3d.com. I use them exclusively. They carry both 1.75 and 3mm, PLA or ABS. They only have a few colors, but right now they are selling 2 to 4 rolls at 20% off the regular price, which means they are about $22 US and shipping is included. Ordering 4 rolls this week. Miltby mondo50m - General
Not sure that anyone is interested, but I have had my MendelMax 1.5 for over a year now and have finally decided to get a sample of NinjaFlex and give it a go. I ordered 30 feet of black material to get started. I believe that I am fortunate as the micro extruder with the PG35L stepper is a great combination for the flexible material. Nothing has to be modified to be able to extrude flexible fby mondo50m - General
I noticed (not that is very important) that the X,Y, and Z position numerals are not lining up in their respective boxes. Does not effect the operation of the program. Miltby mondo50m - Repetier
What would be the better supply to use? I have the LED type on my laser cutter and on my cnc router. I would hate to think that I have not used a suitable supply. Miltby mondo50m - Reprappers
I just had to replace my Ramps 1.4 and everything is working except the retraction. I have it set to 40 on the speed and 3 on the length. I can use the E axis on forward and reverse so that is working just fine. It just seems to not be retracting at all. I am using Repetier and Marlin. PLA is my material of choice. I would think that if I can extrude in forward and in reverse that everythingby mondo50m - Reprappers
I guess we read all kinds of opinions. I was always told to use 80% of the part layer thickness as the first layer thickness. So, a .3mm layer thickness would require a .24 first layer thickness. As I said, there are all kinds of opinions out there. Miltby mondo50m - Printing
I will give this a try in the morning, thanks for helping Miltby mondo50m - Printing
If I set the temp, to say, 40C it goes to 40C with no trouble. After a few minutes it will stop heating and the temp starts to drop. Sometimes it will come back on and sometimes not. I just tried to get it up to 90C, it did that just fine this time, but it would not stop heating and just kept going up, so I shut it off before it got too hot. It is as if whatever is controlling the temp, is noby mondo50m - Printing
I have a MendelMax 1.5 that is having issues. When I begin a print the heated bed responds correctly. As it is heating up, it shuts off before the proper temperature is reached. The temperature reported in the display is correct. So the thermister should be functioning properly. I have checked all of the wiring and it is fine. Could there be a problem with the Ramps or the Arduino? It almby mondo50m - Printing
OK, I have to admit stupidity. I have tried this the way the drawing is made, and the drum just spins inside the cable. Shouldn't the cable be attached to the drum in much the same way the cable is attached to the smooth rod on the X,Y axis? So that the drum creates a pull, pull action on opposite rotations of the drum? As I stated, the drum just rotates under the cable and does not move theby mondo50m - Tantillus
Got it!!! Could not figure out how I would drill a hole in the drum with the stepper shaft running through it. Now I know I do not have to. Thanks bunches. Miltby mondo50m - Tantillus
OK, I am not able to get the routing of the cable done. Just a quick pencil drawing of how the cable is to be run. Miltby mondo50m - Tantillus
I have a request. If anyone has made the Tantillus with the Spectra 'Z' option instead of the lead screw, could you please post how this is put together? I would rather use the cable version, as it should be smoother. Thank you in advance. Miltby mondo50m - Tantillus
Sublime--thank you for the rapid reply. I am looking for a hobbed for the tantillus. ONly five more case sections and that part will be done. Lm8suu and lm8uu, 608zz I already have. Have ordered the motors and the rods. Just needing the hobbed bolt. Let me know when you are ready to sell again. Miltby mondo50m - Tantillus
Working on my Tantillus. I am printing the case on my MendelMax 1.5 and they are coming out just fine. I am also building the Ingentis, which is a large version of the Tantillus. I am in need of getting a hobbed bolt for the extruder. Any Ideas?? Miltby mondo50m - Tantillus
I do not have a Lutzbot but on my MendelMax 1.5, I regularly run ABS and PLA. I do not clean the nozzle before switching, I just extract enough material to make sure the material I am switching to is extruding properly. I leave the Pet tape on the bed for both types of material. For PLA I set the bed temp to 40c with a nozzle temp of 190c. I also use a coating of ABS juice on the bed when doiby mondo50m - General
I have gotten almost all of the printerbot Jr. pieces converted from DXL to STL. I have also printed all of the pieces and they fit together quite well. Of course, sometimes a little sanding is necessary. I have assembled the units structure without the electronics. In most of the cases, I have changed the design a little and am only using Acetone to glue the parts to each other. How do I geby mondo50m - General
Swoozle--thank you very much. Once I knew it was available, it was really simple. Again, thank you. Miltby mondo50m - General